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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, I inherited a 1995 ford super duty turbo diesel 7.3 because it needed an hpop replacement. I did the replacement and the truck ran ok, maybe a little short on power but it blew grey smoke fairly bad. So I rebuilt all 8 injectors thinking that it was oil leaking past the seals. While inside I found 5AA injectors 2A injectors and 1AD injector, which I am sure isn't right, so I replaced the 3 odd balls with AA injectors. The smoke issue didn't disappear so I thought it might be that oil was being introduced through leaking seals in the turbo, so I rebuilt the turbo installing a wicked wheel while I was at it. Now that that is all done I am having a massive loss of power after a minute or two of driving. This coincides with the check engine light coming on. If I turn off the truck (while running I just cycle the key off and then on) the check engine light goes away and power returns for a minute or two till the check engine light comes on again. I have also disconnected the egbpv and jb welded the valve open and disconnected the wiring. In the plug I soldered 3 resistors reading .451 on the 2k scale on my meter. I read that you need 460 ohms of resistance for the egbpv to not throw a code and hope that's close enough. I have a very minute exhaust leak on the y before the turbo which I am addressing, but I don't think that is the problem at the moment. Any help would be greatly appreciated. A couple of things I read about are the ipr valve might have failed, the undercover wiring harness or that the computer might need to be programmed with new injector IQM codes? A little help I'm possibly diagnosing where to start or how to test rather than just throwing more parts and labor into this would help a lot. Thanks in advance to all of the great knowledgeable people on the site the feedback I have found on here that has been provided to other members has been a great help already.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Also I have an unrelated question about the f250. Does anyone know the maximum curb weight? I removed the bed and put a flatbed that I heavily modified on this truck with my welding machine, tool box, oxy-acetolene tanks, and a cherry picker. It now weighs 9620lbs when I pulled it across the scales....I thought that must be wrong so I re-tare'd the scale and checked it again. It came back the same! Should I put a helper spring in and have the springs re-arced? There is a place in town that'll do that. Tire Car Automotive parking light Wheel Land vehicle
Vehicle Tire Wheel Motor vehicle Automotive tire
Wheel Automotive parking light Tire Vehicle Sky
Tire Car Automotive parking light Wheel Land vehicle
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Wheel Automotive parking light Tire Vehicle Sky
 

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'02 7.3L Excursion 3.73 Warn Hubs AutoTranny
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Not to be picky,

but one huge run on sentence w/o any breaks in it, makes it hard to understand what has been done,

and what is occurring.
 

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For your gross vehicle weight I would say that you are over your trucks limit and adding springs will not change it if you have to hit some scales besides seeing what your total weight is.
Look at the sticker on the door jamb and it will tell you what you are allowed for your F250. On mine 4x4 long wheel base the gross vehicle weight is 8600 lbs. and nothing can change that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
For your gross vehicle weight I would say that you are over your trucks limit and adding springs will not change it if you have to hit some scales besides seeing what your total weight is.
Look at the sticker on the door jamb and it will tell you what you are allowed for your F250. On mine 4x4 long wheel base the gross vehicle weight is 8600 lbs. and nothing can change that.
The sticker is worn off the truck, but I was afraid of that. I might have to consider lightening the load some. Thanks for the info though. One question though, we have all hauled much more than standard allowable weight. I get it it's not legal, if I installed a different rear axle and springs it should be fine for more weight correct?
 

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You have the same axle as a F350 single wheel, it's a Sterling 10.25.

Extra springs always help, or upgrading to a dual wheel axle, wis still a 10.25 but with the extra wheels to handle the weight better.

If your truck handles what you have on it now I would just look into a overload spring where you don't have to replace the whole spring pack.

There is a chart somewhere on the forum here that has all the truck weight ratings, but it may take some time to find it.
My truck comes in around 6500 lbs with me and a tank or so of fuel in it.

One way that we used to figure what you can carry is to take the truck, in this case a 3/4 ton and figure that you can carry 3/4's of a ton of weight or 1500 lbs. Which include everything in or on the truck including the passengers
 

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Adding a spring or anything else only overloads the axles (wheel bearings, ball joints, brakes) more. Swapping to a heavier axle will give you that higher axle capacity, but it won't change the GVWR. And until an engineer balances the brakes, it still won't be safe to go over the original GVWR. It might even be LESS-safe if the mixed brakes don't work as well together as the original (lighter) brakes did.
The sticker is worn off the truck...
I'd browse the JYs for the most-similar (originally) truck you can find, and see what its VC label says. Mine is a std.cab longbed, so it's not close to yours, but here's its label, decoded in the caption.

(click this text)
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for the feedback on the axles and weight. As of right now it runs and drives just fine. It might burn through axle parts though with this amount of weight. I was wondering if it was legal and safe to run it at that weight. I'd hate to pull in to a weigh station or get pulled over and get a ticket, of course I've never had to pull in to a weigh station either, so I guess that's a bit of a mute point.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Ok so update on the power issue. I am still working on this power loss issue. I noticed yesterday that the oil pressure was taking a little while to build up, and hence it was taking a while to start, which hadn't been an issue before. I looked over the wire harness carefully and noticed that inside the wire harness is a bare wire that runs through most of the harness, even looping back around and returning back the way it came. I'm assuming that this is possibly a heatwire or something? It was all I could come up with. But I made sure that all of the rest of the connectors were tight and secure and rewrapped everything with electrical tape. No significant change. Unplugged the small wire connector on the back of the hpop while I was messing with the harness, and cleaned it up and reattached, as well as another connector on the passenger side of the hpop(accidentally tried to start it without either of these plugged back in hope it didn't damage my hpop doing that). I'm at a loss....anyone have a solution I might try? I've found a couple of different people have experienced the same problems but no solutions were ever presented. Thanks again.
 

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No mention of codes shown and, surprisingly, no lectures about it lol. Discussion went toward weight and loading, away from limp mode problem. Pretty sure this is going to need code scan output.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Ok, so update, I've replaced the icp and the cps, and I tested the hpop pressure in the lines for each side. No change for sensor replacement and I've got about 500psi in both sides of the lines.....I'm at a deadend, any other ideas/ways to test? How would I go about testing the fuel pump? The fuel bowl is full, so up until now I figured it's getting fuel. And could someone tell me why there's and air fitting on the side of the fuel bowl? I've got a terrible erge to hook up air to it and see if it pushes fuel to the injectors....lol, not intending to I was joking. I'm at a loss, don't know where to go from here this is actually my first diesel vehicle and so far I'm not loving it.
 

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That fitting (shrader valve) is where you measure the fuel pressure at. Spec is 25 psi minimum at a minimum crank speed of100 rpm. Cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Ah ha! I think i might have found the culprit! Combination of stupidity and not knowing the tool i was using. on closer inspection of the gage i was using to check my oil pressure I found that it was reading in inch pounds, so i was only at like 25 foot lbs, maybe a little more. So after only about 2 months the hpop went bad.....man i hope ive got a warranty on it!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Nope, turns out I was reading the gage correctly after all, it was a little confusing, but the outside scale was reading bar and inside was psi. So yeah 500psi on driver and passenger side. I managed to find a wiring harness troubleshooting guide by pulling the connector for the IDM and testing the different leads to make sure everything is connected and not grounded out. So hopefully I'll have it diagnosed. The wiring is the only thing left that I haven't changed or tested. As the saying goes......when you've exhausted all other possibilities whatever is left regardless of how unfeasible it may seem is the answer.
 

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'02 7.3L Excursion 3.73 Warn Hubs AutoTranny
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if anyone needs the procedure for diagnosing the full harness i found it here http://gbreman.com/techbulletin_103.html
I cant take credit for this find, it was on this site posted by another but i cant remember where i found it. but a million thanks to the person who did!
Sadly that link is Dead | 404 error

and I betcha that VerticalScope is the Culprit for that,
on my Motorcycle forum, they killed over 5,000 of my Bookmarks, after they bought the forum from the previous owner.. his software did not align with what they wanted.
Xenforo.


15 years of Indexing the forum for users to find things easily.

grrrrr
 

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Here it is in PDF format if you need it. Cheers!
 

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