[DarthSurplus]

What aftermarket exhaust systems for the 7.3 require the removal of the Exhaust BackPressure Valve?

Do you know of any systems that offer the option of keeping or removing the EBPV?

 

[Mark Craig]

Darth_Surplus,

To my knowledge none of the systems require the reomval of the EVB housing, some folks remove the butterfly inside the housing when they do an exhaust install though! It has a slight bit of restriction etc.

Mark @ DPPI

 

[DarthSurplus]

What is the Banks power elbow, then?

Doesn't the Banks power elbow fasten to the turbo using the EBPV housing attachment?

Can I use a Banks power elbow with a Magnaflow or MBRP system?

 

[rogerrabbit]

Darth, The Power Elbow does fasten to the exhaust side of the turbo. It pretty much replaces the EBPV housing. I think that you can use the power elbow in place of a different exhaust system? I would call up banks and tell them you already have a exhaust and would like to know if you can still use a power elbow.

If you get a power elbow, call Bob at dieselsite and get a non-ebv sytle pedestal. Oil will start leaking from the rod after a while.

Replaced mine with the non-ebv pedestal a month ago. Started leaking oil from the rod after 6-8 months.

 

[DarthSurplus]

Thank you for your input.

If you had it all to do over again, was choosing the Banks Power Elbow worth it? I'm not really very fond of my EBPV, but my wrenching time is sparse, and I'm disinclined to remove & disassemble my turbo just to install an exhaust system.

I also have my doubts about a 4" downpipe. If all other factors were equal, I would prefer a 3.5" DP for my application.

 

[DarthSurplus]

It seems to me that I read about a way to prevent the pedestal from leaking when removing the EBPV, or perhaps it was just for removal of the butterfly valve?

 

[DarthSurplus]

tttad

 

[mtgrizzlyman]

[ QUOTE ]
Darth, The Power Elbow does fasten to the exhaust side of the turbo. It pretty much replaces the EBPV housing. I think that you can use the power elbow in place of a different exhaust system? I would call up banks and tell them you already have a exhaust and would like to know if you can still use a power elbow.

If you get a power elbow, call Bob at dieselsite and get a non-ebv sytle pedestal. Oil will start leaking from the rod after a while.

Replaced mine with the non-ebv pedestal a month ago. Started leaking oil from the rod after 6-8 months.

[/ QUOTE ]
how much for a non-ebv pedestal? and how hard is it to install?

 

[ddog]

If I'm not mistaken the banks power elbow requires a banks downpipe. The power elbow eliminates the EBPV but also has a molded turn down (elbow) that ends somewhere past the original flange on the EBPV and then the down pipe attaches. Reportedely the benefit of the Banks Power elbow is that it is a smoother transition out of the turbo than a pre-bent downpipe. The Power elbow may work with a system other than Banks, but might require cutting and modifying your Downpipe, something you already have experience with.

Your best (simplest) bet would be to find a non EBPV housing, essentially a direct swap particularly if you are doing the exhaust. That way you always have the stock EBPV if you want to go back. I think people wire the actuator rod on the pedestal to prevent leaks but not sure without doing some searching.

 

[DarthSurplus]

I've gone and done some searches and some reading in past threads on the topic. Lots of guys who gutted the EBPV housings early in the game were left scratching their heads and mopping up oil.

At this point I guess I would need to understand what drawback exists, if any, to simply gutting the EBPV and plugging the oil feed port and the shaft hole. What I'm lacking, since I haven't looked at or handled one of these turbos in quite a while, is a good feel for what the air passage looks like through the EBPV housing versus a non-EBPV pedestal. Is there truly that much flow advantage to be gained? Or is the difference beyond the valve and valve shaft minimal?

Simply gutting the EBPV would save me $200 for the non-EBPV pedestal, plus allow me the flexibility of chooosing whatever complete exhaust system I want, instead of forcing me to a complete Banks system, or Banks Power Elbow and adaptation fab work to join it to a Magnaflow or MBRP system.

 

[gregrob]

Here's my 2 cents on this subject.

I think the reason that the pedestal starts to leak is because when the EBPV is gutted, the rods hangs down, runs out of alignment, boogers up the seal, and starts to leak.

If you could find a way to leave the arm attached the to actuator, but take the flapper out, you would have the best of both worlds.

It is my understanding that the non EBPV pedestal simply does not have the oil passageway, switch and rod to activate the EBPV, the air passageway in the turbo is not related to it.

 

[DarthSurplus]

Do you have any pictures of the EBPV handy?

 

[gregrob]

[ QUOTE ]
Do you have any pictures of the EBPV handy?

[/ QUOTE ]

Unfortunately no, I should've taken some when I had mine torn apart. I can try to get some, but it'll be hard to see with the Y-pipe and junk in the way.

To get an idea of how it works, imagine the turbo pedestal, a square pedestal with bolts in each corner and a riser that the turbo sits on.
The oil flows from the engine into the pedestal, there is a sensor on the front of the pedestal, facing the grille, that measures EOT and tells the EBPV rod when to actuate.
Now for the rod, it stick out the SIDE of the pedestal toward the pass side fender. It is a rod that looks very similar to the WG actuator rod. It runs over below the turbo where it attaches to the prong on the flapper valve. When it is activated, it pushes the rod toward the pass side fender and closes the valve. The only part of the EBPV you can see when the turbo is installed is the 'prong' to which the rod attaches and is clipped.

 

[mtgrizzlyman]

Banks has a module to plug in that stops the accuator arm from moveing on and out after you remove the ebpv. would that help at all

 

[WUNDERHOOT]

i removed my ebpv valve and this is what i did.first i removed the turbo from the truck.then i beat the rivets that hold the flaper to the shaft off the i removed the shaft there was a snap ring holding it in.then i taped the hole 1/4" pipe and instaled a steel pipe plug in it and welded it over i welded the other bushing on the opisite side over for the heck of it.then that was done.then for the pedistal i unpluged the conector on the front of it and leave it off.then i removed the eye on the end of the EBPV actuator arm by holding it steady without moving it aroung to much with chanel locks and removed the end i think i stuck a philips screw driver through the eye and twisted the shaft with the plyers. i then fount a plastic plug that has the same od as the hole in the pedistal the rod sticks out of i drilled a 1/4" hole in the center of that plug.i slid that doun the rod and into the hole.what this does is suport the shaft from floping around of center.that can cause a leak because it is ment to be suported by being conected to the flaper. then i reinstaled the turbo i instaled a wicked wheel also at this time it is the perfect time to do this.

 

[ddog]

[ QUOTE ]
Simply gutting the EBPV would save me $200 for the non-EBPV pedestal

[/ QUOTE ]

Not sure if its a typo or confusion of terms but your discussing two mods in one sentence. Gutting the EBPV is gutting the EBPV. The Exhaust Back Pressure Valve bolts to the exhaust outlet Side of the turbo. As you know the turbo bolts to a pedestal. You can Gut your EBPV with out buying a non EBPV pedestal. Gutting your EBPV saves yout the cost of a Non EBPV Housing. They are two separate parts. After people gut the EBPV they may later choose to install a Non-EBPV turbo pedestal(a pedestal without EBPV actuator rod assembly) when it starts leaking at the actuator rod. There were some vendors that were selling the non EBPV exhaust housing also, essentially the EBPV casting with no butterfly valve,etc. which saves you the trouble of gutting your own.
This is one EBPV THREAD That discusses some options for gutting the valve and preventing leaks from the pedestal. It also has a link to a Non EBPV exhaust housing. I'll see if I can roust up some pics from somewhere.

 

[ddog]

[[ QUOTE ]
Do you have any pictures of the EBPV handy?

[/ QUOTE ]

See if THIS LINK helps. Nice cut a way of Turbo with EBPV installed and separate cut a way of turbo pedestal. I found these diagnostic guides googling around one day and cross posted the link across all the forums. Dave Bey took each guide and place in the FAQ Downloads under the 94-97 powerstroke section. (Not sure on the logic since the diagnostic guides cover through the 2005 6.0)

You can find all the engine Diagnostic guides that were part of the link I found HERE

EBPV ONLY PICS SCROLL TO BOTTOM Those are their modded product compared to a stock one.

 

[DarthSurplus]

Thank you, Derrek!!!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif

Now I have a firm (er?) grasp on how the parts go together, and what my options are:

1) Banks Power Elbow
a) Unbolt EBPV housing
b) Plug piston oil port (Hammer69's method)
c) Add Banks Power Elbow
d) Suffer with Banks downpipe
e) Suffer with Banks exhaust
f) Modify Magnaflow to adapt to Banks downpipe

2) Gut EBPV
a) Follow directions in above-linked thread to remove butterfly
b) Plug piston oil port (Hammer69's method)
c) Connect a standard MBRP or Magnaflow exhaust

3) GDS high-flow power outlet
a) Unbolt EBPV housing
b) Plug piston oil port (Hammer69's method)
c) Add GDS high-flow power outlet
d) Connect a standard MBRP or Magnaflow exhaust

4) Add non-EBPV pedestal
a) Select method of eradicating butterfly from the three options above.
b) Don't need to plug piston oil port, cause it ain't there.
c) Select exhaust connection method from the three options above.

Have I missed anything?

 

[ddog]

[ QUOTE ]
Have I missed anything?

[/ QUOTE ]

Van turbo with VTA and eliminate wastegate /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smokin.gif. Actually I'm wondering if you can use the VTA Van Turbo Adapter to eliminate the EBPV on a F series turbo?? Its midway down THIS PAGE and only $99.00. May be give them a call or drop them an e-mail. I can't confirm this would work in place of the EBPV.

Whats the Goal? Do you tow with the pick up? What about keeping your EBPV and converting for use as an Exhaust brake (some one SP diesel?? makes the connector for that). Unless your building a hot rod out of it, the benefits for gutting the EBPV would be minimal( as in you may or may not see it in on a Dyno) I don't think there are any big EGT gains from gutting it particularly if your adding a full system.

 

[TheHammer69]

[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
Have I missed anything?

[/ QUOTE ]

Van turbo with VTA and eliminate wastegate /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smokin.gif. Actually I'm wondering if you can use the VTA Van Turbo Adapter to eliminate the EBPV on a F series turbo?? Its midway down THIS PAGE and only $99.00. May be give them a call or drop them an e-mail. I can't confirm this would work in place of the EBPV.

Whats the Goal? Do you tow with the pick up? What about keeping your EBPV and converting for use as an Exhaust brake (some one SP diesel?? makes the connector for that). Unless your building a hot rod out of it, the benefits for gutting the EBPV would be minimal( as in you may or may not see it in on a Dyno) I don't think there are any big EGT gains from gutting it particularly if your adding a full system.

[/ QUOTE ]

No, u can't use the van turbo adapter to eliminate the EBPV. Gillette Diesel Service sells an NON-EBPV outlet that will work though.

Hammer