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I was wondering if it’s safe or worth putting an aftermarket turbo on my 2002 f250 7.3 or if anyone that has and not burn up a trans or other damage?
 

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I was wondering if it’s safe or worth putting an aftermarket turbo on my 2002 f250 7.3 or if anyone that has and not burn up a trans or other damage?
It depends upon how well the Right Foot Regulator is working.
 

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So true. Also, the biggest “fault” on the stock turbo is the wastegate. I have the TurboMaster on mine along with a billet wheel from RiffRaff and I can make 30+ psi easy. Too easy. I know I need to adjust it down, but I haven’t gotten around to it. Still, it shows what the stock turbo is capable of.


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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
So true. Also, the biggest “fault” on the stock turbo is the wastegate. I have the TurboMaster on mine along with a billet wheel from RiffRaff and I can make 30+ psi easy. Too easy. I know I need to adjust it down, but I haven’t gotten around to it. Still, it shows what the stock turbo is capable of.


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So I’m curious is there a delete kit for the waste gate or just remove it ? I haven’t looked into it very much at all. Not real sure how it even works
 

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A wastegate is a overpressure relief vent device. One can create too much Turbo pressure, too much Turbo pressure (power) can damage the Turbo and or Engine in extreme cases. A wastegate vents that quantified excess turbo created pressure back into the exhaust stream. A safety device.
One, in my opinion, should install boost pressure, pyrometer and transmission gauges well before modifying from stock turbo wastegate or getting a boost fooler to prevent overboost defueling.
With the assistance of the Chipmunk that ate my wastegate controller tubing and wires I don't run an active wastegate now and have not for a decade. I'll get around to installing a spring regulated mechanical controller I bought if I ever pull the stock turbo out, or I loose 25#.
But, I have gages and a pretty good Right Foot Regulator.
 

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...the biggest “fault” on the stock turbo is the wastegate.
What wastegate?
A wastegate is a overpressure relief vent device. ... A wastegate vents that quantified excess turbo created pressure back into the exhaust stream.
Yeah, there isn't one on a 7.3L PS. There's an EBP valve that simply blocks the turbo outlet to reduce the pressure drop across the turbine, which slows the impeller & reduces boost. But it's not a wastegate, and doesn't work like a wastegate, even though it ultimately accomplishes the same effect.
So I’m curious is there a delete kit for the waste gate or just remove it ?
There's not a kit that I've seen, but some people remove it either by 1) wiring it open permanently, or 2) removing the shaft & butterfly from inside, or 3) grinding away the whole thing, and welding up the oil passages like it was never there. This shows the valve at the top right:

(click this text)


But other people re-wire the EPR so the EBP valve becomes an exhaust brake.

(click this text)
 

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Steve83, semantics? If an apparatus has multiple purposes and one is to function as a turbo over-pressure wastegate, then it's a wastegate. Nomenclature semantics don't change something that is established by successful design function for a specific usage, even if the apparatus is sucessfully capable of multiple operations.
 

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Yeah, there isn't one on a 7.3L PS. There's an EBP valve that simply blocks the turbo outlet to reduce the pressure drop across the turbine, which slows the impeller & reduces boost. But it's not a wastegate, and doesn't work like a wastegate, even though it ultimately accomplishes the same effect.
The turbo on a 7.3L Powerstroke has both a wastegate AND an exhaust backpressure valve. They serve two different functions.

The wastegate prevents overboost by bypassing exhaust gas around the turbine wheel. It is held closed by a spring and when the PCM detects overboost, it sends boost pressure to push against the spring letting the wastegate open easier against the spring. Disconnecting the tube from the wastegate solenoid will increase the point that the wastegate opens by removing that boost pressure signal so it only operates against the spring.

The exhaust back pressure valve's function is to increase exhaust pressure in the engine so the engine warms up quicker. It has the effect of reducing boost when it's active, but that's just a secondary function.
 

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What wastegate?Yeah, there isn't one on a 7.3L PS.
Every 7.3 in a 99-03 truck I’ve ever seen has a wastegate. The vans apparently didn’t, but I’ve never worked on one of those. Have you ever rebuilt a turbo on one of these trucks?


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What ended up working for me was to Install a Wicked Wheel 2 from Dieselsite and leave it alone! Especially if you do some towing. It is the Best cost update that you can do! 80 HP tow tune from Power Hungry Performance. I tow 27,000 lbs Gross with my '02 F350,3.73 gears, 17 psi boost, with good clean power and slow to rise EGT's when pulling long hills. I use the Exhaust Back Pressure Valve as an exhaust brake mod. An awesome mod!

There are two schools of thought:
1) The Roll Coal, dump all the fuel you can, run around empty play toys.
2) Then there is the My truck is a work truck always loaded and towing. It can play some also, but boy can it work!

You have to decide what kind of truck you want and build from that.

I have done the Ball Bearing Turbo with the small AR Exhaust housing trying to get spool up. It may work for the empty play truck with lots of fuel and 3000+ rpms, 80 mph, and no EGT's to worry about, but not for a work/tow truck that needs to make full power at 2200 rpm towing long hills staying below 1200 EGTs to avoid a melt down.

I changed over to 180/30 single shot injectors and found little difference from the stock split shots. I do know that 180/0, stock tips, would have been the better choice. The 180/30's were smoky and to clear them up I had to increase HPOP pressure which resulted in a slightly touchy fuel peddle, and the down side was a decreased injector pulse width that took away some torque. A longer pulse width, causing a longer fuel burn as the piston is traveling downward on the Power Stroke makes more power. As done in the modern common rails with multiple injection events per stroke.

Diesel Site Adrenaline HPOP has been a great investment for many years and the bonus was that it eliminated the need for the High Pressure crossover hose mod that would develop leaks from time to time.

A DIY regulated fuel system mod is a great plus also. Especially when you have the engine out. Just simple fact cleaning up the top of the engine, and better fuel flow. I picked up a used DAVCO 243 Fuel filter unit and installed it on the outside of the drivers side frame rail just behind the cab. They should be stock on all trucks! It's a 7 micron filter with water separator and sensor, fuel heater. All though I have not wired it up to the factory fuel bowl wiring, I believe it would work.
The stock fuel pump has been more than sufficient to supply fuel. my fuel pressure gauge never drops below 62 psi. Which is where I set the pressure regulator.

With more HP and added weight the Torque Converter will be you limiting factor not in tearing it up, but in slippage in the unlocked state. The wide gear ratio between 3rd (1:1) and 4th (OD) of the 4r100 only adsorbates the issue. I run a Triple disc, 1200 stall, 1000 hp converter which helped some. There is nothing more frustrating in trying to climb a hill in 3rd-unlocked converter trying to make the 3rd-locked shift. When it makes lockup then you can hammer down. You can have all the HP in the world, but you are still going to have to wait on the torque convertor! If you have a 6 speed then lucky you!

It has taken me years, money, time, and unlimited aggravation to learn all of this in a Real World application. The fact simply is that the latter model 7.3 Powerstroke needs very little to wake it up. A better tune-fueling, some more air.
Not to say that all Performance products are bad, but Performance companies only make money when they sell products. The 7.3 just does not need a lot to come alive.
 

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good job! for do it yours self guys with less experience the beans 66 turbo is direct fit over 300 cfm air flow improvement 22 lb boost tows with 80 hp tune no chatter no smoke cheaper way to go I run s and b air intake 4" exhaust as well
 

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...With more HP and added weight the Torque Converter will be you limiting factor not in tearing it up, but in slippage in the unlocked state...I run a Triple disc, 1200 stall, 1000 hp converter which helped some....
Great post, thanks; OP got some good bonus info. Interested in the 1200 rpm stall converter; rough shifting under any particular conditions? Any indication or thoughts that it might hasten the next transmission rebuild?
 

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I used the Accumulator valve body kit from BD diesel or somebody Reputable I also add the 6.0 trans cooler. I have Tried many transmission companies thru the years.. It's a luck of the draw once you find a good builder stick with them. I personally have never had much luck with kevlar clutches and all that stuff however I do like the Upgraded billet converter face. I also delete that line between Between the transmission lines going into the transmission. Most forget that the check valve can go bad or get stuck bi passing cooler
 

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Dieselsite Hercules tranny. I have over 130k miles on mine. Bob purchased/ worked with Greg Evans monster tranny. Greg was a Ford tranny engineer and I believe his is acquainted with Mark K.
They use a different approach in raising the tranny pressures at the clutch packs with out while keeping the tranny pump pressure stock.
 
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