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I was installing some aftermarket gauges the other day. I removed the
dash piece that goes around the instrument cluster,radio, headlight switch, etc. I got the gauge installed and ran the power wires under the dash and reinstalled the dash piece. I installed a boost gauge so before I wired up the power to it I wanted to make sure everything was good. I turned on the key and fired it up. Now the airbag light blinks for about a 1 minute and then stays solid. I noticed that the passenger side airbag switch wont light up the off light anymore when dissabled.
So I made sure the plug was on the switch completely.
I have also disconnected the battery for several hours and tried again.
Im not sure what happened.

Anybody had this before.
 

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When the restraints control module (RCM) detects a system fault, it will cause the air bag indicator to flash a coded sequence called a lamp fault code (LFC). The code is two digits. The first digit is flashed with a 0.5 second interval between pulses. There is a 2 second pause before the second digit is flashed which also has a 0.5 second interval between pulses. There is a 5 second pause between each display of an LFC.

Each LFC is flashed three times after which the air bag indictor will remain lit for the remainder of the key-on cycle. If there are multiple LFCs, each LFC will flash in order of priority.

Read your LFC and get back with us.

O
 

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[ QUOTE ]
well, I got a code 27

[/ QUOTE ]

LFC 27/DTC B1884 — Passenger Air Bag Deactivation (PAD) Switch Warning Lamp Inoperative

An open or short to ground on Circuit 1113 (Y/LG).

A damaged or burned out PAD indicator.

A damaged or inoperative PAD switch.

A damaged or inoperative ECS module.

A blown PAD switch I/P Fuse 22 (7.5A).

First double check the connector to the switch, then check the fuse, then if that doesn't work, replace the switch. If the lamp is burnt out, the whole switch needs to be replaced.

Hope that helps
 

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Discussion Starter #5
thanks alot. I'll be checkin.

Today the off light came on and the airbag light went out.
It was happy until I turned the bag back on.
 

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[ QUOTE ]
If the lamp is burnt out, the whole switch needs to be replaced.

[/ QUOTE ]

Or you could go to Radio Shack and get a 12v 25ma bulb and solder it into place. $1.29 instead of $75. Part# 272-1141 $1.29 at Radio Shack
 

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Do you know what code 1 - 5 means? For several years my '99 F-350 has been flashing that to me and the dealer is always clueless when I take it in. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif
 

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LFC 15/DTC B1887 — Driver Air Bag Circuit Short to Ground

Normal Operation

The air bag electronic crash sensor (ECS) module checks for driver air bag circuit shorts to ground by monitoring the voltage of Circuits 614 (GY/O) and 615 (GY/W) at Pins 1 and 15. If the ECS detects a short to ground on either of these pins, it will store a diagnostic trouble code (DTC) B1887 in memory and flash a lamp fault code (LFC) 15 (or higher priority code if one exists) on the air bag indicator.

Possible Causes
short to ground on Circuit 614 (GY/O).
short to ground on Circuit 615 (GY/W).
short to ground on the air bag sliding contact (14A664).
short to ground on the driver air bag module.


LFC 15/DTC B1916 — Driver Air Bag Circuit Short to Battery or Ignition

Normal Operation

The air bag electronic crash sensor (ECS) module checks for driver air bag circuit shorts to battery or ignition by monitoring the voltage of Circuit 614 (GY/O) and 615 (GY/W) at Pins 1 and 15. If the ECS detects a short to battery or ignition on either of these pins, it will store a diagnostic trouble code (DTC) B1916 in memory and flash a lamp fault code (LFC) 15 (or higher priority code if one exists) on the air bag indictor.

Possible Causes
short to battery or ignition on Circuit 614 (GY/O).
short to battery or ignition on Circuit 615 (GY/W).
short to battery or ignition on the air bag sliding contact.
short to battery or ignition on the driver air bag module.

With these codes, I'd recommend that you don't try the DIY route, cause monkeying around with the airbag system can cause them to go BOOM /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/eek.gif

If you supply this info to the dealer (who should ALREADY HAVE IT /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif) they should be able to fix it up for you.
 

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[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
If the lamp is burnt out, the whole switch needs to be replaced.

[/ QUOTE ]

Or you could go to Radio Shack and get a 12v 25ma bulb and solder it into place. $1.29 instead of $75. Part# 272-1141 $1.29 at Radio Shack

[/ QUOTE ]

Thanks - I know my bulb is out on my work truck, 2001 - F150. I will give this a try.

John /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 

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[ QUOTE ]
.....

If you supply this info to the dealer (who should ALREADY HAVE IT /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif) they should be able to fix it up for you.

[/ QUOTE ]

Thanks for the info!!!!!

So these codes you speak of will I see them when I hook up Edge Evolution and look for diagnostic codes? I never see anything related to the airbags when I look. The dealership always tells me that there is no "codes" when I bring it in. They say to bring it in when the light is on. Well everytime I shut the truck off it clears the airbag light. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif I tried connecting the Evolution and look at codes when the light is on but still nothing...
 

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When the restraints control module (RCM) detects a system fault, it will cause the air bag indicator to flash a coded sequence called a lamp fault code (LFC). The code is two digits. The first digit is flashed with a 0.5 second interval between pulses. There is a 2 second pause before the second digit is flashed which also has a 0.5 second interval between pulses. There is a 5 second pause between each display of an LFC.

Each LFC is flashed three times after which the air bag indictor will remain lit for the remainder of the key-on cycle. If there are multiple LFCs, each LFC will flash in order of priority.

Read your LFC and get back with us.

O
I got the code 8
 

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well a 15 yr old psot but i still drive my 2001 F250 and the airbag de-activation switch which is controlled by using the ignition key in the activation pad is not working, the key will not turn and it is in the off position. Now the airbag fault indicator light has failed and the annoying 5 ring chyme is on stage. I have also had repeated failures at trying to keep the fan blower motor working in anything other than high. We replaced the blower motor the relay and the switch. I am tolf it may be symptomatic from the airbag system failure. Not so sure about that one myself. I will get to replacing the Airbag light bulb but can anyone illuminate the fan speed control for me? Really not to keen on replcaing parts Ive already replaced just to see them fail again in a month or two. How hard is it to replace the airbag on/off keyed switch? and does it pose a risk off bag deployment?
Thanks
Ford fan
 

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well a 15 yr old psot but i still drive my 2001 F250 and the airbag de-activation switch which is controlled by using the ignition key in the activation pad is not working, the key will not turn and it is in the off position. Now the airbag fault indicator light has failed and the annoying 5 ring chyme is on stage. I have also had repeated failures at trying to keep the fan blower motor working in anything other than high. We replaced the blower motor the relay and the switch. I am tolf it may be symptomatic from the airbag system failure. Not so sure about that one myself. I will get to replacing the Airbag light bulb but can anyone illuminate the fan speed control for me? Really not to keen on replcaing parts Ive already replaced just to see them fail again in a month or two. How hard is it to replace the airbag on/off keyed switch? and does it pose a risk off bag deployment?
Thanks
Ford fan
Well I guess no one comments on this post anymore. Probably wasting my time here. But here's the latest. When I turn the ignition off the truck continues to run. A great many idiot lights come on. So i considered replacing the ignition switch before replacing the GEM. After pulling the ignition and putting it back the truck shuts off but the blower will run in the off position, but the speed control works now! WTH. Still have the airbag chime chirping at me 5x5 but I havent replaced its warning lamp bulb yet. Not sure I want to invest in the price of a light bulb for this truck now!. Grrr
 

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I didn't see your post from a couple months ago, but your heater fan issue might be a burnt out resistor or the speed selector switch.

If you didn't actually replace the ignition switch, I would do that. The act of removing it and putting it back in likely got some loose pieces rattling around in side that are not supposed to rattle around and fixed the run circuit, but not the blower circuit. The ignition switch has 4 separate circuits in it, and any one or multiple circuits can go bad and the remaining ones still work.
 

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I didn't see your post from a couple months ago, but your heater fan issue might be a burnt out resistor or the speed selector switch.

If you didn't actually replace the ignition switch, I would do that. The act of removing it and putting it back in likely got some loose pieces rattling around in side that are not supposed to rattle around and fixed the run circuit, but not the blower circuit. The ignition switch has 4 separate circuits in it, and any one or multiple circuits can go bad and the remaining ones still work.
Good information sir, thank you. I will get a new ignition.
Question now is however can I get one that matches the key I have? Or do I have to change out my door locks to avoid having to use two keys. I purposely bought this truck without electronic locks since thats just one more thing that could go wrong.
Also my airbag warning light has burned out after years of trying to get me to fix the keyed power on/off switch on the dash.( now I get to listen to 5 series of 5 tones telling me the same thing) If that switch has failed could it be the culprit causing other electronic failures? ps and is it simple to replace that idiot light?
Thank you
 

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The electrical part of the ignition switch is not the same as the key cylinder, so you don't have to replace the key if you replace the switch, which lives below the steering column in front of the dash panel.
 
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