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Discussion Starter #1
Driving home today smelled a burning plastic smell. Got home & popped the hood, altenator was smoking pretty good. Lots of small black melted looking particles inside the alternator. When they cooled, thy're rock hard like hard black plastic. What's the damage ?? Expensive repair ?? Thanks !! Kevin
 

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it will just cost you an alternator but after you get it back together you need to check your voltage regulator easy just make sure your not charging over about 14.2- 14.5 volts
 

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Isn't the voltage regulator inside of the alternator?
 

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Check the 2 wire connector on top of the alt . The insulation may be rubbed off the wires from the heater hose.
 

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I had a battery light flickering issue, turned out to be that pigtail on the top of the alternator being rubbed by the heater hose and grounding out to the alternator case. Some electrical tape and wire ties and I've been fine since.
 

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Mine melted down on a hot summer day years ago. The insulation either got to hot on the coils inside or rubbed on the case. Since you got smoke, and it sounds like it's still charging--could be the case bearing going. Should be noise with a bearing. If it is either it is time for a new one. The regulator is outside on the back of the case.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the input, everyone. Now, any suggestions on where I can get a quality alternator for a decent price ??
 

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bearings went out in mine last month. I found the best price was Auto Zone. I think it was around $145 out the door for a reman. It also comes with a life time warranty. If you do find one cheaper somewhere else Auto Zone should match it. Good Luck
 

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the regulator is on the housing after about 95 but I see many different types of equipment at work and very few powerstrokes except mine.
 

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dbelectrical.com is a good choice for a new not rebuilt alternator.:thumbsup:
 

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I used to test and build Ford alternators at the Rawsonville Ford plant. The voltage regulators rarely go bad, it's the brushes that wear out. The dealer will sell you a set for about five bucks. Your alternator is a 3G model.

I believe your rectifier is fried. The plasma coating on the rectifier probably got fried when the diodes cooked. That black crusty stuff is plasma coating. Just get a reman and be done with it.
 

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Thanks for the info but what I am actually looking for is the replacement pigtail wire harness.
screech.owl 1995 F250
As long as you know what you are looking for check out this CATALOG. It has it but you just need to find it.

Jim
 

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Thanks for the info but what I am actually looking for is the replacement pigtail wire harness.
screech.owl 1995 F250
Rockauto.com has a great selection for model year vehicle specific pigtails and factory connectors. They include pictures on their site so you can make sure you are buying the right item.

This company sells parts for just above wholesale and have many places to drop ship these items. I buy all my parts from them when doing sidework. The local parts shops hate Rockauto.
 

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Alternator Size

I used to test and build Ford alternators at the Rawsonville Ford plant. The voltage regulators rarely go bad, it's the brushes that wear out. The dealer will sell you a set for about five bucks. Your alternator is a 3G model.

I believe your rectifier is fried. The plasma coating on the rectifier probably got fried when the diodes cooked. That black crusty stuff is plasma coating. Just get a reman and be done with it.


So what is the biggest alternator I can get and mount in the same place on my 96 7.3 PSD ? I plan to install some MONDO lights on my F250. You know, lights that will simply blow that other driver OFF THE ROAD when I turn them on. (figuratively, you know)
 

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Good question. We manufactured over 100 different 3g models. I don't own my 97 anymore but I think it was 130 amps. This is more than your truck should ever need. There is a bearing cove on the back of the alternator that has an ink jet print on it. It should say the amperage.

I purchased my 2001 with dual alternators. Way overkill.
 

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So...I still have my original alternator after 15 years and 110,000 miles. Would it be cost-effective to rebuild this alternator myself (new rectifier, regulator, and bearing) or cheaper just to buy a rebuilt one from aftermarket store? Am I overlooking any other parts I'd need, and is there anything special about rebuilding it?

p.s. I'm not having trouble (yet) but thinking about future preventive maintenance.
 
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