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Discussion Starter #1
Blew another gasket or cracked head this time around. Done alot of research or what is available for data out there on the web and Im highly considering the promaxx bare casting aluminum heads. Why aluminum? Hell, I just like the stuff. Aint like I gotta shave weight but why not. Repair if again will be easier. Working aluminum is way easier. Looking really to see if anyone has first hand knowledge of them and to see if there is any catastrophic issues. Thanks
2003 6.0, 4wd, cc, lb, DRW, Innovative x street on a daily, full entire bulletproof as per Bible at 9k miles. Currently sitting at 33,4xxon the clock. Yes,an `03 with actual 33k on it.
 

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I've looked st the very same heads there's another company making alum heads for the 6.0 also but both are only making them18mm have to change injectore hold downs and a couple of othe things. Getting them bare is best, its cheaper to get the good stuff yourself if you have a trusted machine shop. Also having them O-ringed is also beneficial in help to not blow a gasket.
 

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This is scary stuff. I got heads 5 years back that were the "new beefed up castings" and I'm going through coolant and getting high cooling system pressure when boost goes over 10 PSI. The choices are not good. OE heads with a bunch of cracks welded up, iffy cast iron castings, or aluminum. Have these heads I have now "settled" and will be OK if resurfaced and O ringed? DO I need to find a way to put 8 HUGE C clamps on the engine to hold the heads down?
This time I'm fitting later cab mounts. The cab will likely be off a few more times.
Having a 6.0 is somewhat like running a top fuel dragster. Damn it runs good but you know you will be tearing it down after a couple of runs. I wonder if you can put a slipper clutch on a 6.0?
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
I`m propably going with aluminum promaxx heads. KDD uses promaxx castings. I`m also going to use the new Felpro head gaskets. Been studded since 9k miles on my 03. I`m now at 33k. I personally will not bolt another diesel head down without o-rings. That and Im going to get anotherset of tunes on my SCT4. Turn it down a bit. I`m in too damn deep to get out of this truck. Love the power and mileage but working on this thing just flat out sucks.
 

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You studs your ENGINE did you retorque them after a certain amount of mileage I've been reading where there having to retorque the studs. Because they stretch. Asfar as resufacing the heads i wouldnt unless its beyond the limits allowed .which head studs did you use ARP or extreme studs H-13 the H13 studs don't stretch like ARP do I've read this in the Cummins guys site. They use the H13 studs are better than ARP or should say there stronger by 30,000psi tensile strength more they say and there cheaper than ARP by 400 bucks or more . If you got remain heads and they where welded myself I would have sent them back
 

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You shouldn't have too tear it apart like that that's nuts. Lol sounds like your head gaskets mine are seeping some when I get around 20 to 25 but not puking I run me degas on the low side. Now sometimes I get pressure sometimes none at all which doesn't make since to me at all. I'm thinking of going with the ARP 625+ or the H-13 studs the 625+ I found anywhere from 1080 all the way to 1800 that's crazy the H13 are 600 and stronger than the 625+ and don't stretch like ARP found studs on eBay for 70 buck but the reviews aren't very good if your going to change heads for the money which it's not much more go with the promaxx bare and have a good shop complete them out with orings I've heard of double orings being used but the machinist has to know what he's doing for them to work right. Mine needs cab bushing also and that's going to be a pain
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I`m orderring aluminum bare castings from Promaxx. Yes I will have them o-ringed. I will also use the Felpro gaskets. I will be re-using my ARPs. I torqued them previous at 235. This time will be 265. Maximun 7 thousandths oring above surface of head.
 

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Be careful on your torque on aluminum heads. They are not the same as for cast iron. Ask the company you get them from what they recommend. You also need to make sure the block is true. New heads won't fix that.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
You are correct Stroking It. Deck of block is ok. Aluminum is diferent but the heads are made of T6! And if youve ever worked with it, its some seriously hard stuff. WeldingT6 alone is a mutha roo.
 
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