[greenskeeper79]

This past summer I tackled a leaky fuel pump, had 145k on it so it didn't owe me anything.

Now I smell diesel and the valley has fuel colllected in it. I cleaned the valley and looked for 10min with the engine idling and didn't see any fuel buildup. I did pull the connections for the restriction, heater, and water sensors figuring it would be one of them...nope.

Out of ideas at the moment, will drive the truck tonite and possibly check it after driving to see how much fuel has built up. Milage hasn't been bad but slightly down so I think it is a slow leak thankfully.

 

[Window&Door]

I hear you. I got my turbo off to do my fuel pump(wanted a new turbo anyways..) I'm downright fed up with fuel leaks in this truck so I yanked just about everything out of the valley, got a new fuel pump ordered new sensors and a new accumulator just because the turbo is off right now. I am baffled by how much of an issue this becomes for some of us. I keep telling myself it's only a truck, how difficult can this be? Maybe excavator(jim) will chime in, very knowledgeable. I know some guys have had their fuel filter canister/bowl leaking itself from corrosion or bad casting possibly small cracks. The fuel drain valve can cause leaks. Looking at my parts on the bench before cleaning everything, it looks like fuel had been leaking from under the FPR, there's a snap ring holding back a half-dollar size brass finish looking plate with an O ringed sleeve that slips over the hardline going from the FPR to the bottom of the canister. Went to a dealer this morning and ran up a quote of over $600 dollars, American, to replace all the o rings and anything rubber or plastic in or around the fuel system in the valley.... Thanks, I think I'll try NAPA. Ford won't sell you O rings, they'll sell you "kits". My accumulator slowly leaked once before, you may not have that on your truck, I think those are only on CA ems. vehicles. Best advice; take the filter canister off and see what you can, if anything and replace whatever O rings you can with viton o rings. Look at the three blue fuel lines that run to and from the pump, perhaps try and tighten up the banjo bolt. Post back when you find anything. My Ford is rarely driven so I have alot of time to take to make sure i get all the holes plugged. Sorry for the long post.
-Pat

 

[169stang]

I just finished replacing the o-rings on the fuel drain valve. I'm now trying to replace the 3 blue fuel lines going to the fuel canister, but am not sure exactly how to get the lines on without removing the canister. What is the part on the other end of the fuel lines mounted in the valley? I was thinking of removing that to install all 3 lines.

 

[Griz]

I just finished replacing the o-rings on the fuel drain valve. I'm now trying to replace the 3 blue fuel lines going to the fuel canister, but am not sure exactly how to get the lines on without removing the canister. What is the part on the other end of the fuel lines mounted in the valley? I was thinking of removing that to install all 3 lines.

Personally I think you are better off removing the canister. The blue lines hookup to the bottom of the canister and over to the fuel pump.

Griz

 

[greenskeeper79]

I'm beginning to think it is the bottom of the fuel bowl which is probably corroded (from my searching on this site) and only begins to leak when the bowl is pressurized after driving for a while...make sense?

Gonna pull the bowl this weekend and possibly JBweld it.

 

[Griz]

I'm beginning to think it is the bottom of the fuel bowl which is probably corroded (from my searching on this site) and only begins to leak when the bowl is pressurized after driving for a while...make sense?

Gonna pull the bowl this weekend and possibly JBweld it.

There have been a few people on this site who have had that problem. I believe most have used JB Weld to repair the leak. Not sure which type of JB Weld they used though.

Griz

 

[Window&Door]

Don't forget to either replace the O rings or buy new sensors, theres two sensors on the drivers side that of the canister that are prone to leak. I'd suggest taking the lines loos from the FPR loose and leave the FPR attached to the canister when you take it out.

 

[Window&Door]

When you take out the plastic standpipe, rememmber the 7/8 nut on the bottom end of the tube is left handed thread. Best removed with a crow's foot but can be taken loose with a regular hand wrench. Don't break it. The heating saucer inside will come out after the standpipe is removed and the wire inside is disconnected. Then you can brakleen out the inside real good and get all the sediment out.

 

[blageurt]

There is also a tiny weep hole on the bottom of the pump that tends to leak. I think mine is leaking there again. I just replaced the filterbowl assembly with a new one. It held for a few months, but when the cold weather came it started again. It could be somewhere on the filterbowl but I doubt it . It's probably the lift pump weep hole on the "new" pump again. It is not that bad but it pisses me off. That is why alot of people just replace /upgrade the lift pump with an electric system . Hopefully when it warms up it will stop leaking like before. Truck runs great and it only seems to leak once in a while . . .

 

[169stang]

I'm having a lot of fun with mine. I removed the FPR from the bowl while the lines were still attached to the FPR. As I pulled the FPR away from the bowl, the screen went flying...to not be found. THEN, as I pulled the screen thimble out of the FPR...to clean, the spring went flying....to not be found. This is one of those project where things just aren't going my way. So...now to wait until Monday to order the FPR screen kit and a FPR rebuild kit....just to get a spring. BTW....what ball bearing are people using when replacing the ceramic BB in the FPR?
I'm contemplating replacing the Fuel pump......just b/c I'm already in there and I'll be pissed if that's what is actually leaking. then again, the entire valley is nasty with diesel fuel.

 

[greenskeeper79]

I have the whole engine are fuel system taken apart. Some o-rings look iffy, unfortunately I don't have a seal kit at the moment (will order if leaks return). Going to try to clean them up and reseat - none are teared/disintegrated at least.

Also the fuel bowl has corrosion, almost to the point of failure out the bottom. There are 3 nail head sized spots where I think fuel was weeping through only under full pressure - filled on the bench doesn't leak.

I am removing the unnessary sensors during reasembly hopefully down the number of leak points! :thumbsup:

 

[Surfah]

I clean the whole FPR / canister assembly on a table and pretend it is brain surgery clean the small screen and disassemble the entire unit. All my o-rings survived...
(if i do it again i will try replace) Cleaned up everything with simple green then flushed with iso. alcohol and let things dry out . I don't know if alcohol is recommended but in our humid weather moisture in the fuel system / injectors ,is bad news.

Chris

 

[169stang]

I found a website that sells all of the needed o-rings to RR and fuel canister, etc. $10 for the kit and the o-rings are Viton. dieseloringsdotcom. I'll get my setup in a couple days, so I'll report back on the actual o-ring kit.
Greenskeeper, I'd take the fuel bowl to someone that can tig weld. Have em spot weld those nail head sized divots.
That canister is $500+. If I had to buy another canister, I'd just go to electric b/c they are putting those setups in for $500-$600.
Surfach....Carb/Choke cleaner is good for final cleanup b/c it evaporates quickly.

 

[Window&Door]

I am removing the unnessary sensors during reasembly hopefully down the number of leak points! :thumbsup:[/quote]


The fuel heater may be necessary in PA. I don't know, mines never seen snow or ice. I think the water in fuel sensor is vestigial, but mine DID NOT leak for many years 10+. Theoretically, good o rings and all rubber replaced should leave me leak free while there is no corrosion in the filter canister. I will, however smear some JB around for a lil preventative maintenance. On my filter canister, very bottom line going to pump looks like it had/has a weep at one time. In fact both barbed stubs from the canister looks like they themselves may have leaked, JB.

 

[greenskeeper79]

[The fuel heater may be necessary in PA/QUOTE]

I disagree. Our vw doesn't have a fuel heater or block heater and it has started as low as -19F without issue (long glow on the plugs though!).

Actually looking at the fuel heater I don't think it was working anyways, as the lead from outside the canister wasn't making contact on the heater, just sitting there in the diesel fuel.

 

[greenskeeper79]

replaced all o-rings on the fuel bowl...still leaks diesel. I suspect it is worse when driving than at idle due to pressurization of the fuel system. Is it worth it to go to an electric fuel system? Getting around 15mpg in town which I think could be better if it wasn't leaky leaky...know what i mean?!

 

[speeddemon31176]

Definitely worth it to go electric. It is my next step. It is especially worth it if you are planning on doing any upgrades. It removes the fuel bowl and lift pump from the valley making it much easier to work in there.

 

[greenskeeper79]

any links for good electric setups to purchase?

 

[speeddemon31176]

There are several places online to get one from. Most guys just use a 99-03 superduty fuel pump and a two filter system mounted on a custom made bracket mounted on the frame rail. If you do a google search for 7.3 electric fuel pump conversion you will find everything you could possibly want to know about it.