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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I am wanting to do the hutch mod to my truck and have read different ways of doing it and lots of different lists of parts to get. Is stainless steel worth the money. Would like to have one list that gets me everything I need. I have the bed off currently should I drop tank also. I need to replace brake line between frame and tank so wondering how hard it is to get tank back into place. Also what is best out of tank filter to use and also have been reading about this part #7-059 Fuel Crossover system is it worth the $200 not wanting to race my truck so was wondering if it really helps injectors fuel mileage and so on. Also just wanting to know if I should do anything else to fuel system it idles at about 70psi with only one modification #7-033 FPR housing -Billet Aluminum w/pressure shim springs thanks for any input
 

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Go look at my post I just did mine in copper. My buddy did his with copper 8 yrs ago with no issue. But there is also some coated break lines some people use. The post is on the next padge I did mine last week. I just don't belive in wasting a bunch of money on a farm truck. Just want it to pull better and to quit down in the cab.
 

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I'm really happy with the result of my recent hutch mod but not so much on the harpoon mod. The last 2 times my tank has puked fuel from the nozzle as it is cutting off and I am not happy about that. I need to re-learn how to fuel the truck but really wish I hadnt cut the inlet.
I went with the kit from strictly diesel, everything was there and made the job much easier in my opinion. It is a little pricey but not having to run to the store several times made it worth it for me.
 

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In my opinion the stainless is worth the money. (Like tex said, read his recent thread for more on my opinion...)
I don't know that part number off the top of my head but if you are talking about the fuel rail crossover w/regulated return "to solve the deadhead fuel rail issue" then YES! It is most definitely worth it even for stock truck and just about required if you have any mods...
Which leads to the question of: why are you running 70 psi fuel?
Unless you are running a program and larger injectors you really don't need that much fuel.
As for the filter, I use the fs1000 fleetguard but there are many others worth using, choose one that is readily available for you.
I also strongly recommend adding the helper pump along with all of this as well. It will relieve some of the strain off the main pump and help to stabilize your fuel pressure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
is there any advantage to using stainless steel besides that the copper will leave contaminants in tank but the fuel filter will filter these out I would think not sure though. Aclasshog was wondering how much did you cut off for the harpoon mod and how much more fuel can you fit in tank now. Well how do you tell if your truck has the dead head fuel rail issue and yes my truck has bigger injectors with a ww2 in the turbo along with a 7ps tuner from DP tuner. What do you mean by helper pump as in get rid of oem pump and upgrade to fass fuel system or something like this. Also would it just be worth it to just get strictly diesels kit for hutch mod so I don't have to run all around town it is pricey so is it worth it and what is the tubing inside the tank made out of from strictly diesels kit. Thnaks for the input so far guys this is a great help
 

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That is how I see it I added a pre pump filter and have one under the hood. The same setup as my buddy after eight I think it has proved it works fine.
 

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If nothing else the advantage of stainless is you don't have to wonder about contaminants and no the filter will not filter them all out...
The helper pump is a lot cheaper than a fass system but doing a fass will incorporate both pump and filter and many of them also come with a sump system eliminating the need for the Hutch mod.
All 7.3s have the deadhead fuel rail. If you changed injectors and didn't do a crossover then you are most definitely not getting full performance value of the new injectors.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Is the strictly diesel lines stainless steel or can I use them without contaminates getting into fuel leaning towards this kit as of right now. What do you mean by helper pump then and for doing the crossover are you bypassing the fuel bowl I am confused on how exactly this part works and I have already did this modification #7-033 FPR housing -Billet Aluminum w/pressure shim springs so it will stay at 70psi at idle and about 60psi when pedal to metal. What to get the most efficient setup for fuel mileage and maybe a little more hp with out spending to much.
 

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None of these mods bypass the fuel bowl. The frx is a fuel return system and would replace your current regulated return but you need it to quit starving your #8 injector for fuel and to eliminate air from yor fuel system.
 

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It will quiet and smooth it out, both a little bit.
The Riff Raff crossover is probably the cheapest way to go. Multiple vendors carry them, so look for best price and consider shipping costs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
so I should get the fuel rail crossover while doing the hutch and harpoon mod and would it be best to get the strictly diesel hutch mod kit. Thanks again for the much needed help should I be doing anything else with these mods and while the bed is off.
 

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HI there and Happy New Years,
I have not looked at kits. Do you have concerns with it?
Use quality fuel injection rated hose to run up to the pre pump filter you will install. Use extruded plastic loom over it. Secure to frame, so things are not rubbing.
You should paint the bed reinforcing strips.
Replace tank fill neck if starting to rot out.
The vent line that is on the tank, usually turns to mush. Replace it with guilty fuel injection rated hose.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Happy New years to you as well. The strictly diesel hutch mod kit is what I was talking about getting. The pre pump filter comes with the strictly diesel hutch mod kit https://www.strictlydiesel.com/show...el-tank-pre-pump-kit-hutch-mod&ProductID=2662 I am replacing the bed rails and I am using grinder to get all rust off the frame then I am painting undercarriage. Also replacing a break line and emergency parking brake line. and I will look into that thanks for the idea Also Gator 5713 what do you mean by helper pump for fuel system.
 

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I can't tell from that what they use for tubing so.
I get the stuff to do it all at Napa for a little under $100.
Awesome you are paintings.
You are making new bed support strips? Nice. I made some serious ones.
I used a spot weld drill bit cutter to take off the old ones.
I went with heavier gauge metal and boxed the top. I payed bed down, got all gaps and lines perfect, tightened bed bolts and then used 60 yr. coated Fastnal self tappers thru the bed floor into the supports. If the ever start rusting you pull out the self tappers, loosen bed bolts, left bed a little and you slide out your new support for painting or duplicating in the fabrication shop at the retirement home.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Do you have exact list you gave them for all your parts would like to do this to but didn't think one store would be able to get me everything. Thought I would have to run all around town so if you have a list would be much appreciated. Well I grinded my old bed rails off and bought some more oem ones for $300 including mounting hardware. Did you reinforce yours with that metal or are those new ones that you made. Next would like to put plow on truck so want to make sure I do this right the first time.
 

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Happy New Year, I don't have a list per say.
From Naoa I get:
Poly a Coated brake line for the pick up tube.
If you read mod instructions, it has you making a return line bending around the arc if the senders float. I don't mess with that. I set it up like all regular tanks. That return line nipple at the top goes thru the lid and only extends an inch or so into the tank an inch or two. The purpose of the stock set up with that long return to the mixing cup, which you are eliminating to get rid of cigar shaped filters to mix warm return fluid to warm frigid diesel. This negates the need to fashion a shaped return line that dumps half way or more into the diesel.
Why would you want your return line throwing air into the body of your fuel supply? You do not.
Hutchinaugusta made an attempt to simplify the filter elimination but just didn't think it thru.
I measure length and by quality 3/8 fuel injection fuel hose.
4 3/8 fuel injection line clamps.
New pick up boot and a marine grade clamp to hold it to pick up tube.
I set height so tits on bottom of foot is just off the bottom of tank, almost touching.
I fasten pick up pipe and set its height.will a Ferrell style brass compression coupler. Be sure it's tight so it does not suck air.
I buy 3/8 extruded split plastic loom to place over hose you run up the rail.
I buy the universal filter mount. It's available in two different thread pitches. Find out which gives you more separator filer cartridge options. The one offers set ups with clear bowls on the bottom to watch for water. I get a basic one with a plug in bottom and buy their $2 pet ok drain and just drain it every few weeks checking for water.
I have made mounting brackets to mount it to inside frame rail but pre made stainless or something probably available for ease .
From there it's just a short hose to the pump.
You will need a variety of housing outlet adapters., 45s, barbed fittings ect.
It might be worth it in time and money for you to buy the kit.

Where did you find pre made reinforcing strips! If I may ask

No, I made mine from scratch. Heavier metal and heavy tube welded in where the bolts go thru.
I welded on heavy bracket on ends.

I painted mine in November to get them in and done and the metal was too cold, so they need touch up.

The cross member that holds the spare has those huge pockets. They do not have enough drain holes. Put water in them and find where water sits and drill drain holes, sand, prime paint.
Coat frame, cross members and everything after paint has cured with Fluid Film.

If you are plowing get 2 big Led lights to mount under ends of hitch so you can see and don't knock he corner of a house out, like I did 2 years ago.
They don't draw much and can be soldered directly into the reverse wires.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
So did you get all these parts from NAPA or a local auto parts store. What directions are you reading or what are you following a YouTube video or guzzles diesel site. Also how hard is it to do all this im only 18 so that's why I was leaning towards kit since its a little more self explanatory. The only help I get is from this cite and it is very much appreciated. I think I can do it all of this but I know its easier said then done. I got my bed rails from geek parts and just got done welding them on today was a little messy with melting the bed liner off. Bed is also thinner than I thought. And yes I agree with the lights I have a headache rack that has lights on it and is very helpful during farming season and other odd jobs. also with helper pump what is main purpose to make oem pump last longer or to get more power when in a higher hp setting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Also was wandering how much time and money you had invested in the hutch mod. Thanks
 
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