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Discussion Starter #1
ok just bought a 95 f350 4x4 that needs an oil pan (big surprise:icon_rolleyes:)
i plan on pulling the motor out and doing it right .Was just looking for suggestions on what other parts if any should be replaced.Im thinking rear main at the very least.
 

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I would seriously look at the oil cooler / lpop and the exhaust manifolds as well as the Injector O-rings and injector cups . If you have the money slap on those fancy 3" aluminium intakes they sell. Since you will be removing the front cover anyway.
 

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while its out do the rear main, oil cooler, the upipes, turbo o rings, the hpop plugs in the back of the head, the oil pickup tube, the fuel pump if the turbos off. also rad hoses an t stat.
if youre pullin the core support, dont forget new bushings for it.
no need to pull the front cover, and no real need to pull the injectors, or cups, or intakes.

also if a 3" downpipe is goin in clearanec the fire wall once the motors out.
 

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If you're thinking of adding a pyrometer sometime, it'd be a great time to drill and tap a mounting hole in either the manifold or the exhaust collector (AKA baby's-butt).

It would also be a good time to upgrade to the newer high-pressure oil-rail end plugs (improved o-ring design) or to do any fuel system improvements you might have in mind. That way if you happen to drop the fuel pump tappet, it'll just fall on the ground. Also, it's much easier to work on the rear fuel lines when the turbo and firewall aren't in the way.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
wow lots of stuff.I had planed on putting in the downpipe so i will be doing the clearance stuff when its out.As far as the other stuff is it all dealer stuff and any idea on cost.(upipes,turbo o-rings,hpop plugs).I was thinking of doing the glow plugs and injectors but i think im going to wait that is something i can do with the motor in the truck.thanks guys.:thumbsup:
 

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Im in this same situation...needing to pull the engine to redo the oil pan seal and dipstick seal at the very least...I also notice quite of buildup of what looks to be oil or grease under the crankshaft pulley and balancer. Where do I go to buy all the seals, o rings, gaskets, etc? Also, how can I lay my hands on the shop manuel for this year of truck?
 

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Where is the best place to buy all these seals and gaskets? Is there an online vendor, or am I stuck with going to napa or the Ford dealer?

Also, can I buy that kit that includes all of these seals?
 

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Most major parts stores have online parts searches where you can search for parts by year and make. In most cases, they give you a picture of the actual part too. For the dealer only items, i've found that going directly to the International/Navistar dealer will save you 40-50% over Ford and lots of times I've even found them to be very comparable with NAPA. I'm also considering pulling my eninge to remove the oil pan. Since it isnt yet leaking, i'm going to sandblast it and put a good coat of RM epoxy primer then a good coat of paint on it. When I get around to doing this, i'm going to seriously think about pulling the crank out, having it polished and installing a new set of road and main bearings. I'm also going to do front and rear main seals, dipstick seal, remove and sanblast exhaust manifolds and do my oil cooler seals.
 

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Most major parts stores have online parts searches where you can search for parts by year and make. In most cases, they give you a picture of the actual part too. For the dealer only items, i've found that going directly to the International/Navistar dealer will save you 40-50% over Ford and lots of times I've even found them to be very comparable with NAPA. I'm also considering pulling my eninge to remove the oil pan. Since it isnt yet leaking, i'm going to sandblast it and put a good coat of RM epoxy primer then a good coat of paint on it. When I get around to doing this, i'm going to seriously think about pulling the crank out, having it polished and installing a new set of road and main bearings. I'm also going to do front and rear main seals, dipstick seal, remove and sanblast exhaust manifolds and do my oil cooler seals.
I'd stay away from the dupli-color engine paint. I spent hours prepping, masking and painting, and it's chipping and peeling all over. I also used the dupli-color exhaust paint on the manifolds, up-pipes and turbine housing...it all burned off on my first trip down the WV turnpike. :icon_mad:
 

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Discussion Starter #11
well I got the motor out what a pain in the a**.I took off both fenders and radiator support,mostly because i've got 2 new fenders so they had to come off anyway.I think Im going to pull the tranny and put it on the motor and put it back in as one unit.Everything is a tight fit I cant imagine trying to line everything up under the truck.
 

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Don't pull the tranny unless you have to . You will need at least a 2.5 ton hoist or a forklift to get it back in . . .
 

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Discussion Starter #13
yeah i thought about that.... my lift is rated to 2 tons. I think that should be plenty their is no way motor and tranny weigh more than 4,000lbs. can it????
I just think I'm going to save myself some headache by bolting it together first. Has anybody done both and what way was easier? I did take off my radiator support so I only have to go high enough to clear oil pan.
Thanks paul
 

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I'm not certain that you'll have enough clearance between the pan and the cross member to drop the engine and trans into place as a unit. It might be worth a try, though.
 

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Instead of pulling the engine, I'd cut the crossmember and replace your gaskets that way. Then weld it back in.
I disremember who it was who done it that way (I think he is on this board) and he swears by that method. It might have been Cuda or SKI. And from his writeup and pics on his experience, it seems to be quite successful and a whole lot easier.
If you decide to go that route, cut some straps before you cut the member. Then drill some holes thru the straps and then the member so you can use them as locating jigs to hold the member back in place to weld it. What I saw in his writeup, they did a great job of locating and holding for welding.
And Ford says not to drill or weld on their frames. Well, look at it this way: we got way too many lawyers in this once great country. Don't believe me ? Just ask your doctors that and how much they pay for MALPRACTICE INSURANCE. And ax them when the last time was they got sued for a VALID claim.
The engine itself weighs 1000 pounds (each head alone is a hundred pounds). Not sure how much the tranny weighs. and it's an all day job to get it out. Got shoe horns ?
Another easier way to get to what you want to replace is to unbolt the body and LIFT IT UP so you have easy access to the engine.
 

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I'm fixing to pull the engine on spring break. I want to avoid cutting and welding...so pulling the engine without the tranny is the easiest? Also, what must I remove to take the engine out? Before I start disconnecting lines and wires I thought it would be worth it to ask...What you guys think? How did yall do it?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
ROGRRR- the motor is already out.
janssen-here is a list of what i took off not in any order just what i remember removing
headlights
grill
radiator support
radiator
power steering lines
heater-core lines
lines to radiator from tranny
motor mounts (2 bottom bolts on each side)
exhaust
starter(for clearance)
oil filter(for clearance)
battery trays(to get to bolts)
fuel lines(need special tool)
dipstick tube for tranny(its bolted to engine block)
big ground going to lower passenger side of engine block
wires from starter selinoid
some small vac.lines and some small ground straps
bolts that hold tranny to block

well probably more im forgetting right now.I also took off fenders but thats because i have new ones to put on.

Have fun its a pain.

swivel sockets,extensions,lots of metric sockets deep and shallow,tool for fuel lines, I used a 3 foot extension to get top tranny bolts.
:thumbsup:
 

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I'm fixing to pull the engine on spring break. I want to avoid cutting and welding...so pulling the engine without the tranny is the easiest? Also, what must I remove to take the engine out? Before I start disconnecting lines and wires I thought it would be worth it to ask...What you guys think? How did yall do it?
DzlJim has a good writeup: I
 

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I dont' know about adding things to the motor,but as far as the paint goes...I'd use nothing but the Por-15...look at there website @ por15.com...not cheap though...lol
 

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I used RM epoxy primer. Easy to apply, given you have a compressor and a spray gun. It holds up very well. I use it as a base over bare metal when doing body work on the ol' Ford's. I sprayed my brand new gastanks with it before putting them on and its been 4 years now and no sign of rust. I remember dad hardly ever getting 3 yrs out of a tank before it'd rot out. I've found POR15 hard to store. I like to get an old pickle jar and transfer it into that right away, then when I'm done I take the argon line off of my mig welder and spray it into the jar as im screwing the lid on. This gets rid of any air in the jar. Then I put the jar into a bag and sealed it up tight. I only do this because the first can i ever bought i didnt store it properly and the top 3/4'' was rock hard and the rest was garbage. Here are a couple pictures of the epoxy on the oil pan and oil cooler.
 

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