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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I should be getting my truck back today from dealer after putting it in shop for head gaskets after puking when towing.

I sprung for the ARP studs and had the dealer put them in.

Anyone do this upgrade and still have a puking problem?

Anyone using a tuner and puke with the ARP studs but without the fire ringed head?

Thanks,
 

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Great question, I got my EX back last week, same setup (ARP/new gaskets) and am wondering the same... Mine also has a certain piece of the exhaust system welded shut for an extra measure of protection. To my surprise not a word from the dealer on that little mod. I'm really hoping to be trouble free from this point on. After owning a Dodge/Cummins for 70k trouble free miles (modded and not treated all that carefully I might add), I'm still hoping that the big Ford can step up and give me the same level of confidence! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif
 

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Mine has been done for over 40,000 miles now...hasn't puked a drop.
It steamed out some coolant once...but that was after 5 miles or so at 1600+ degrees in a high speed race.
 

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my question is which arp studs are most of you guys using and has anyone done this on there own out of warranty and if so what was the torque on the studs compared to the stock studs, also can it be done without removing the engine or front clip .
 

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I think the stock bolts torque at about 90ft lbs then turned 90º then another 90º. Yes the ARP's go to 245.

There isn't enough room to get a couple of the rear studs in because they are under or against the firewall. That's why the cab is removed or motor pulled. I read on here a while back where someone came up with a way to holesaw a couple holes in the firewall to get to the couple studs in the rear.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I don't know how my dealer did it, but he put in the rear studs without pulling cab or motor. Few marks on firewall but that was it.

Houdini?
 
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