It most absolutely is. That type of driving is the textbook case for developing rotor disc variation, and what really everyone develops. The problem is that during driving down the road there is a high percentage of cases where a brake pad touches the highest runout point of the rotor. All rotors have lateral runout, and the factory limit was 0.0010", which can still be problematic.well the set im getting ready to replace is the second set, although on the first set I had caliper issues (slide pin). I am really easy on brakes mostly interstate driving very early in the morning rarly even need the brakes and sense I have a 6 speed I downshift always I cant even remember the last time I had to panic stop. So I cant imagine it would be my driving style.
It most absolutely is. That type of driving is the textbook case for developing rotor disc variation, and what really everyone develops. The problem is that during driving down the road there is a high percentage of cases where a brake pad touches the highest runout point of the rotor. All rotors have lateral runout, and the factory limit was 0.0010", which can still be problematic.
So as your highway driving and not touching the brakes, this high point is slowly worn from the contact to the pads. Keep in mind that the highest runout on the outer rotor side is generally 180° opposite from the high runout on the inner side. Once the thickness variation of the rotor gets to be about 0.0005" - 0.0008", your going to feel pulsation due to the wedging between the pads of the rotors thickness change. It's the same as increasing and decreasing the hydraulic brake pressure.
People that do a higher proportion of braking have less issues because when they are braking they are wearing (grinding) the rotors true.
For that type of driving style you need two things. Lowest installed rotor runout and more deceleration rotor wear to keep the rotors worn true. And the second is accomplished by using brake pads that are more rotor abrasive. The OE brake pad has low rotor abrasion and was selected for this application with commercial use in mind. So part of the solution is to go with pads like those offered by Performance Friction, Hawk, or many of the other aftermarket manufacturers.
The rotors get blamed for the problem when in fact they are the victim. Unless they are poorly installed or machined poorly with a high runout. Everyone changes both pads and rotors, then declares it was the rotor that solved the issue. Wrong hero. You've made two changes.
If you already have pulsation from the rotors, then you've got a high probability of already having hard spots in the rotors. It's not worth turning them as the machining will not remove the crystallization, and the problem just returns in 5k-15k miles. Then it's blamed that the rotors were turned too thin and warped from heat. Nothing more could be further from the truth. Rotors are designed from the point of minimum thickness, then more meat is added for wear and resurfacing.
Brakes convert momentum energy into heat energy. The shorter the stopping distance the more heat is concentrated in the rotors. Longer braking periods dissipate heat as you're slowing down. We all know this. What hasn't been mentioned is after coming to a stop allow a few feet in front of the vehicle and let the vehicle creep forward a bit instead of sitting in one place. The idea is as you sit stopped the rotors are cooling except where pads are clamped to the rotor, causing uneven cooling which is what I believe causes most rotor warping.My front rotors are warped again and was considering aftermarket rotors and pads are these slotted and/or drilled rotors less prone to warpage. Also saw oem style rotors made by bear and ebc would they be any better.