[clydesdale]

Well with 60,000 miles it happened to me over the weekend on vacation. My wife, 2.5 yr old and 7 mo old were in chicoteague virginia getting ready to go out for lunch when whoosh no clutch pressure. My foot went right to the floor and i had to hook the pedal with my foot to pull it back up. You know the rest from here. The good news is there was a dealer about 25 miles away. So i limped back to the campground and the following morning got up real early to avoid traffic and made my way to the dealer. This was monday morning. They did not have the part, so 7 hours later they obtained the part and fixed my truck. The parts guy screwed up. The part was there the whole time. The tech was awesome, got me fixed up right away. The dealership was very nice and my family was very lucky.
My point is carry a spare hydraulic system. Even if you dont feel you can fix it, at least have the part so you can find someone who can. I travel a lot and this was the first time i broke down away from home.
The new hydraulics (complete set up from master to slave cylinder) have a black resevoir and the original was white. Has this part been upgraded or revised? I have heard these things fail. Has anyone had it blow more than once.
I already carry a spare alternator and a cps. I have thought about having a spare set of hydraulics. I will probably get one.
Can someone post the instructions on how to change them in the field?
Unfortunately, this problem will strand you. I got lucky, since i woke up before traffic and made it to the dealership which was only 25 miles and 2 traffic lights away.
If your hyraulics havent blown, get a spare!!!! I should have.

 

[Domenic]

Mine died at 2,000 miles /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gifRight after spraying the noisy pedal spring with WD40 /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif 30,000 miles later no problems..and no WD40..Remember the old mechanical linkages? they would out last the vehicle, my 49 jeeps clutch is still fine..progress /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif

 

[TruckerDon]

Actually, It won't necessarily leave you stranded if you know how to sync shift. I drove mine from Atlanta to Memphis so I could use dad's lift to do the clutch, exhaust, rebuild the front end completely, and U-joints. Oh, and to hang out with dad.

Don.

 

[floyddmartin]

Hey Clydesdale,

got a part number or any other information that might lead me in the right direction?

Mudman

 

[nogm4me]

How do you sync. shift?

 

[mike10]

Syncro shifting....no clutch used. in the old days trannys in large trucks had no syncros.Gennerally used the clutch only to start out,then matched speed,rpm,and gear to shift sans clutch.still done every day by thousands of truckers everywhere(easy on clutches)
Its impossible to teach on line...find a semi driver to teach you, this you have to learn by doing.Easy with a trans built for it ,difficult in a zf (at least in mine)still a good idea to learn for emergencys(when the hydraulics die)

 

[Wayne B]

[ QUOTE ]
Mine died at 2,000 miles /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gifRight after spraying the noisy pedal spring with WD40 /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif 30,000 miles later no problems..and no WD40..Remember the old mechanical linkages? they would out last the vehicle, my 49 jeeps clutch is still fine..progress /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif

[/ QUOTE ]

With mechanical linkage on the PSD pedal, it would be a LOT harder to push down than your little Jeep clutch. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif

You look at your jeep linkage and I bet it needs bushings. They never made it past 5 years. Replace them and you pedal will work even better.

Wayne B

 

[skydivr000]

I was on here looking for other information when i came across this thread. I will post the part numbers later this afternoon because right now they are sitting on the seat of the truck. I literally just finished replacing my hydraulics this morning. I put in the new hydraulics and the clutch rod bushing. All I needed to to the job was big screwdriver to seperate the rod from the pedal, a pair of Channel lock to help twist the slave cylinder loose and a small pair of pliers to ease in removal of the clutch position switch. I have never done this before and really took my time especially not to drop the rod into the bell-housing. Time from start to finish 43 minutes and one sore nose. (i was really close when i popped the clutch rod from the petal and in popped up the last 1 inch and hit me in the nose). I did not even jack it up. I found a dip in the yard and did it there. Ease of simplicity on this job. 5 stars. i will post the part numbers later

Gary

 

[Watson]

Ive had 4 stick in mine over its current 360K miles.... some lasted 120K miles, another only 30K...
I always carry a spare now and its about a 20 minute fix with nothing but a 10-12" crescent wrench and a flathead screwdriver.
It is possible to float shift one of these if you just have too, but most people wont be able too.

 

[fieldtrialer]

I had a 1994 . It went out twice. I put a total of 114000 on truck.

The first time I drove from NY to OH pulling a 12000 horse trailer by sync shifting. At the toll booths I would stall truck then start it in gear. I was lucky that there was little traffic.

 

[Domenic]

[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
Mine died at 2,000 miles /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gifRight after spraying the noisy pedal spring with WD40 /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif 30,000 miles later no problems..and no WD40..Remember the old mechanical linkages? they would out last the vehicle, my 49 jeeps clutch is still fine..progress /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif

[/ QUOTE ]

With mechanical linkage on the PSD pedal, it would be a LOT harder to push down than your little Jeep clutch. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif

You look at your jeep linkage and I bet it needs bushings. They never made it past 5 years. Replace them and you pedal will work even better.

Wayne B

[/ QUOTE ]

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gifVery true..but I don't drive the jeep anymore..replaced it with a quad for hunting /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif

And yes it would be near impossible to push the pedal down without hydraulics /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif but If the hydraulics fail one more time within 100k...the truck will be gone and I'll be driving a Toyota /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

 

[skydivr000]

Here are the part numbers

slave cylinder unit 2C3Z-7C522-CA ------ $111.71 List $135.10
Clutch pushrod bushing E7SZ-7A581-A----- $ 5.23 List $ 6.97


From start to finish, it took me 1 hour and 15 minutes. That included changing the fuel filter, replacing my VSS and cleaning up. Not to shabby for a first time I guess. I don't know if I would ever be carrying a spare unless I had a really big tool box with a whole lot of empty space. But I can tell you whatever someone would charge to install this is to much. I think someone with the mechanical knowledge of a chimpanzee could do it. I did read my Hayes manual first and that helped prep me for the job.

C YA
Gary

 

[clydesdale]

I did make a couple of shifts from 2nd to 3rd by matching rpm, but i got a little scratch on one of the shifts and decided that is just wasnt worth the practice. I used to do it in my little hyundai often, but this tranny is work as much as my whole hyundai, so i decided to just leave it in either first or second. Plus it depends where you live. If you dont have stop and go traffic you are ok, get into any traffic and you are screwed, she wont go into gear from neutral.

 

[kmans777]

Put it into neutral before you stop so you still have power braking. Shut her down, put into gear, light changes to green, start her up in gear and away you go. Not the ideal thing but will get you home or to shop. Worked for me. Had to drive 30 miles home when my clutch disk threw a spring. Then 15 to shop. As far as carrying spare parts with you, where do you stop? Not trying to give you a bad time, just curious. I carry a spare CPS, but that's it.

 

[twistedtj]

Well yesterday I had an issue with my clutch pedal and after doing the search I found this thread.
What has happened with mine is I came to a stop sign, pushed the clutch in to start back out in first and when I let off the clutch pedal it kept comming up. It came up about 5-6 inches higher than normal. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif I am not sure what holds it down. I looked and all I can think of is something on that push rod that goes through the fire wall let loose. I can pull the clutch pedal all the way to the knee panel in the dash and I can see the end of the rod that goes into something that goes through the fire wall. I took out the big spring and it allows it to sit where it should but I would like to get this fixed, but I am not sure what I need.
Any one know what happened with mine?

 

[diesel_doctor]

A clip in the master cylinder is broken. You have to replace the whole thing, you can't buy the clip.

 

[2012]

[ QUOTE ]
As far as carrying spare parts with you, where do you stop?

[/ QUOTE ]
HECK: Spare parts & the tools to install they is why I have a long bed!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/phoney.gifI have to stop at 8' /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

 

[twistedtj]

[ QUOTE ]
A clip in the master cylinder is broken. You have to replace the whole thing, you can't buy the clip.

[/ QUOTE ]

I found it here LINK for $55. I cant remember what the other Ford auto parts web site was. Does any one have this site handy? Is the clutch master cylinder hard to do?