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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I took my truck to a reputable diesel repair shop a couple months ago and got a laundry list of items that need fixing. They seemed to be spot on. After a couple thousand $ (ball joints, tie rods, blah blah) I decided to go with a good mechanic who has an 05 F250 highly recommended, who has all the tools, 12k lift in his garage, etc.

One of the issues was a bad LEFT rear wheel seal, leaking diff fluid. So, we took the rear axles out, repacked bearings after inspection, and installed Federal-Mogul seals on BOTH sides to be safe.
Now, 1 and a half months later, I took my truck in for inspection (Virginia) and I have axle fluid leaking out of the RIGHT rear. WE replaced both sides. Now he is saying possible bent axle. I didnt take a level to the axle when we disassembled it to make sure it isnt bent, didnt think or know to.

In the time I have had it, I have not even gotten close to payload or towing capacity. most I have put was 3500lbs in the bed last december (1 pallet of architectual shingles for my moms garage)

I regularly put 2000lbs of concrete bags in the back and pull my trailer. trailer weight is never more than 8,000lbs.

The truck is the one noted in my signature. 106k miles. Works hard for my fence business I love it. I need some input from the bottomless pit of information you gentlemen have.

Dana 80 dually.

Any reason why one side would leak, we replace both, and now the other side is leaking about 1500 miles after?
Pics available upon request

2005 F-350 6.0 CC LB FX4 DRW, Torqshift, 140Amp Alternator, ARP Studs, Towboss Package, XDP Coolant Filter, Hellwig swaybar, Complete Moog front end MOOG parts, 2800W sound system, Front tow hitch with cargo caddy (beer/water cooler holder,) 4" turboback exhaust with muffler delete, SCT 7015 Tuner

Factory oil cooler, EGR Cooler replaced June 2015
On hand but not installed: Cat delete pipe, AirDog 165
 

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Did anybody inspect the vent for the diff? When you drive and heat up the gear oil it will expand. If the vent is plugged the fluid will push past the seals.

I don't believe a level is the correct method for checking an axle. I would think it would take a special jig and dial indicator.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
No we didn't. I have ordered a mag hytec diff. Cover so when that is installed I will clean valve
 

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I hope you didn't actually repack the rear axle bearings with grease. They run in rear end oil. After you put it back together you need to back each rear wheel in a ditch so the rear end oil runs into the hubs. Then check oil level again.
 
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They are supposed to be replaced in ford spec moly grease and then one ounce of diff fluid squirted in before outer bearing is inserted. Then torque 60lbs then back off 5 clicks with new bearing,7 clicks on used bearings. This is per ford.
What did your seals race surface on the spindle look like any groves.
What do you bearing hubs look like, the spindle itself?
Do you know how to alalyser bearings? Looking for pin like centers under the rollers versus evil the nice ring around a round recess on bottom and top edge of roller? Heat discoloration, trash scoring, inner hub inside surface lateral scoring.
Do you understand venting system from nipple to hose to clip to Y?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
the bearings looked great. the races were smooth. I had new bearings and races onhand but did not need them. everything looked like it came from the factory. I do not understand the venting system. I have since bought a Mag hytec diff cover for the rear, and when i do the repairs ill toss it on.

i will ask my mechanic his process on the lock nut
 
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