[TalontedTSi]

My truck is in the process of getting some basic mods. I have no intentions of going crazy with it just a bit more power and towing ability. The truck tows 5-7k pretty regurally (lawn & landscape equpiment and materials mostly locally) and then gets unhooked and driven around a good bit unloaded. Actually just got back from a trip from MD to NC and back for vacation. In a short while I will purchase a DP chip with the appropriate settings for the different driving styles, exhaust and an intake. For a bit longer I have to be careful of my warrenty company /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

The questions is is... I have a Banks 1.0 exhaust housing and a big head WG here for the 7.3. Ive been considering whether I should install the exhaust housing or sell it and look into a garrett bb turbo or equivalent turbo. By the time I pickup a ATS or similar intake housing and bolt it all up with the other parts its going to cost a good bit...on the other hand I have this housing here just need to find time to install it.

Which brings me to my next topic, while doing the exhaust side. Ive been reading I should ditch the EBPV in the stock setup. If anyone has a writeup and or the parts other then the actual non EBPV and advice that would be great.

Thanks for your help and input!

 

[JimTJr]

I don't know why it wouldn't be a good idea to install the 1.0 housing. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif Stock are .84 I believe on the truck turbos, so 1.0 would be an improvement. I have the Van turbo with the 1.15 exhaust housing. I like it.
Also loose the EBV. When you have everything off, pull the actuator arm out and cut it off as close to the housing as you can. Then either tap the hole and put an NPT pipe plug into it, or shove it full of JB weld. (That is what I did, no leaks yet, probably a couple years now.)

 

[ditch_dawg]

I would install it along with a wicked wheel. I wouldn't waste the coin on the ATS housing. I have been running that exact set-up for 3 years now without any surge issues period.

I can't comment on removing the EBPV as I am still running mine.

If you do decide to install the exhaust housing you might want to go ahead and replace your gaskets on your up-pipes.

 

[TalontedTSi]

Thanks! After all I do have it here so its probably not a bad idea to make use of it. If it does go in I may look in to the WW, im just skeptic about not getting the turbo rebalanced (even though I know tons of people do this).

With the non EBPV, I could weld shut the hole from the door. The housing could work too but is there anything I need to ditch with regard to oil or electrical? I dont know that much about this part of the engine (EBPV) so before I get into anything I want to be sure of it all. I felt there was more then closing off a hole (with the door removed) but hey I dont know.

As far as the uppipes...Yes I fully intended to replace the gaskets and possibly even the entire uppipes while im in there.

Lastly, please correct me if im wrong but I was under the impression the stock 7.3 exhaust side was 1.15 and the banks one was 1.0 causing the turbo to spool faster and all?

Thanks

 

[ditch_dawg]

I know Black Cloud Diesel used to have on their website a pigtail that you would put in the electrical connection for the EBPV. This would make sure it didn't throw a code. Other than that I don't know of anything else other than to make sure you seal it up real good.

As far as the exhaust housing goes, truck's are 0.84 and van's are 1.15 and non-wastegated.

I understand the concern on balancing the turbo. I have kept a pretty close eye on mine (checking end play) and not had any issues. Maybe I am just lucky.

 

[BMcNab]

As was mentioned, the trucks are .84 and vans are 1.15. Now the older body style trucks(1999 and back) have 1.15 from the factory, but the turbo is totally different. I was happy with my Banks 1.00 and big head wastegate actuator, very little lag and more power above 2000 rpms.

 

[444-4D]

Unless you are changing the turbo pedistal there is nothing you have to do to the electrical connection. Leave it connected just like it is now. You don't have to do anything to the actuator rod either but it is best to remove it and plug the hole. Since the pedistal will be off it's real easy to do. The easiest way to plug the actuator rod hole is with a bolt, copper washer, and lock nut. Another good way (if you have the tools) is to thread it and install a pipe plug. While you have it apart you can also put a 1/8" x 5/8" dowell pin in the piston oil feed hole if you want.

 

[JimTJr]

[ QUOTE ]
While you have it apart you can also put a 1/8" x 5/8" dowell pin in the piston oil feed hole if you want.


[/ QUOTE ] The reason for doing this, OR Leaving part of the rod in there, ie... cutting it off below the housing, (Pull out and cut off, then let go it will pull back inside) is that there is a thought that the oil circulation may not get to the turbo as well, with the "Void" you would leave in the passage in the pedistal. If you leave the rod in there, but plug the hole, it will fill, and flow more like normal. If you just removed the rod, then it may not flow to the turbo shaft as well.

Clear as used 15w40 Rotella T???? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/phoney.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif

 

[444-4D]

[ QUOTE ]
there is a thought that the oil circulation may not get to the turbo as well, with the "Void" you would leave in the passage in the pedistal. If you leave the rod in there, but plug the hole, it will fill, and flow more like normal. If you just removed the rod, then it may not flow to the turbo shaft as well.

Clear as used 15w40 Rotella T???? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/phoney.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif

[/ QUOTE ]

Those thoughts are only thought by the technically challenged or those that have not seen the inside of a pedistal.