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Barder's 360 bearing rebuild,XDP billet,Applied Performance

18K views 52 replies 10 participants last post by  Maryland dieselnick 
#1 · (Edited)
Hi, I have rebuilt and upgraded my 7.3 GTP 38 turbo.
I received directions with the 360 bearing kit but it begins with the back half of a turbo. I found a video on you tube and did not trust it when I saw the guy with a framing hammer working on the turbo. I also noticed the orientation of the thrust bearing needed a little attention so here goes.


I can only attach one thumbnail so I will be making consecutive posts with pictures and explanations so please refrain from replying till I note on post the conclusion.
I hope this helps one with a rebuild.

I began be dissembling turbo by removing cover housing then the compressor wheel.
The exhaust turbine wheel may be held with vise grips on hub and then just loosen and remove wheel.
Next remove cover. Inspect the cover and housing on the inside bottom and else where for extensive damage from cavitation. This is cover has some erosion. This can easily be buffed out with Emory paper.
 

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#2 ·
Once you have remove housing,wheel and cover plate and EBV outlet tap shaft Softly and Straight out.
Once the shaft and it bearings and spacer are removed wire brush rust off of center section.
Next the exhaust side seal grove in housing needs to be cleaned.
The seal is like a miniature piston ring that is on shaft and rides in a groove in center support. Be careful using any type of tools in that groove as you don't want to mar the groove.
This is the grove. I used Stihl decarbonizer to clean the groove of carbon.
 

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#3 ·
One the housing has had the rust removed and seal groove cleaned out take the larger of the two seals out of kit and install on exhaust turbine end.
They are just like a piston ring they will expand a little but are brittle and will snap.
You may want to use fingers or you may want to use ring expanding pliers.
 

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#4 ·
Leave the shaft aside.
Revolve rust from turbine housing and chase all treads with tap 8mmx1.25 to ensure all bolts are threading in freely and capable of yielding a true torque spec.
Next check the mating surfaces on housing and EBV outlet you just cleaned with a straight edge for flatness.
 

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#6 · (Edited)
Take the heat shield cup and place it on exhaust side of center support.
Take your shaft with the seal, bearing, spacer and second bearing and insert it into center carrier slowly and carefully till it stops. Once it stops slowly and gently rock a little with downward pressure. The center housing entrance is chamfered so it will compress ring seal as it goes in. It will give you a click feeling when it goes in and seats, if not you probably still have carbon in grove.
Once it is seated and all is well you should see bearing on the compressor side of center support.
 

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#14 ·
Thanks so much Nick , that's a great write up and so informative , i will print this out when you have finished so i can rebuild my spare Garrett turbo for when my unbalanced turbo chucks it in :lol: and Ill have a replacement already done . No I'm serious:icon_wink:
Great photos as well it must take a lot of time to assemble these parts and document in the process , so thank you.:thumbsup:
 
#16 · (Edited)
Now your turbo is ready to install the actuator.
They need to be preloaded with tension or you will have waste gate flutter.
Some do 6 wraps of turn buckle and then pull on it with vise grips to get end onto post.
You can hook up compressed air to the actuator and watch gauge as the gate lever starts to move and adjust accordingly.
Take your time.
Good luck
Nick
 

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#17 ·
NICE writeup,
Ill be using it this next week when i put mine together,
THANK YOU
 
#19 ·
All that work balancing, and then you go and slather a glob of green paint on one of the blades. Tsk Tsk. :)

VERY NICE WRITE UP. In 15 years of reading this forum, I've never seen as detailed of a write up on the bearing and CHRA internals as you have so excellently photographed and explained.
 
#20 ·
Nice work, Nick. Your thread has been nominated to go in the FAQ subforum, so that's where it's going. I'll leave a redirect for about a month, which will still show up here.
 
#22 ·
Oh yeah and NYB the painted witness marks you saw were placed there by Arundel Diesel.
They assemble,torque and balance the assembly. Once the computer says it a go they put witness marks on it so everything ends up in the same spot after you disassemble it and reassemble it in the rebuild process.
Really NYB ? You know I would have blown an eyelash or dust of that.lol.
 
#23 ·
Of course you knew I was teasing you about the greem paint. I think you should have posted that pic in answer to the question about how the balance is restored on reassembly. But perhaps your turbo was baking in your kitchen at that time.

Looks like you've started a trend... "Nick's Crispy Compressor Cookbook"
 
#24 ·
That looks real nice Nick , now you have all that done you might be able to mow the lawns.:lol::lol:
 
#26 ·
just torque it to the correct amount and forget it. it cant loosen itself off off and if it gets a little tighter there isnt anything you can do.
 
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