[PhotoKevin]

My '00 F350 has a battery drain since back from repair. Someone tried to steal my truck and broke the ignition switch which was repaired at the local dealer. Since then I had to jump it once. Was able to start it after sitting once and now cant even jump it. (at least with a car)

It does really weird things when you try to start from the door marker lights and dome light flashing with a click as if the directional is on. (It did stop this) Other times the windshield wipers go on when I turn on the switch. My batteries seem marginal. One will not take a full charge the other does. (charging with the battery disconnected with a 10 amp charger) When I reattach the battery the voltage drops right a way.

The charge has a 50 amp emergency jump start setting. I tried it and it the truck still would not start.

Could this be a short they caused when they were working in the column? They had to get one from salvage to get all the clips they needed. I am not sure how much they used.

Any ideas before I call them screaming tomorrow?

Kevin

 

[ArcticDriver]

Have you had your batteries load tested?

Sure sounds like they are toasted.

Sorry to hear someone tried to steal your truck.

 

[PhotoKevin]

I have not had them load tested. When I put the connection back on the voltage drops like that puts a load on from somewhere but nothing is switched on. Could this be a sign of a short in the system? There is some sort of drain. When I was last able to start it. I ran it until the (idle controller)charge protect cut the rpms.

Would the batteries just go suddenly. It is an awful coincidence that this just happened when the truck was damaged and then repaired. I have two 36/100 Motorcraft batteries that were purchased Mar 2012. I am pretty sure that one is bad but the other takes a charge.

Thanks for your help. I am not thinking to clearly right now since this has just pissed me off.

Kevin

 

[ArcticDriver]

Hey Kev,

I don't even want to think about how pissed I would be if someone tried to steal my truck and caused damage.

Things will get sorted out with your truck amigo...take heart.

The Motorcraft batteries are good batteries but those are 5 years old now and that is longer than alot of guys get.
I have heard the 7.3 PSD is tough on batteries and the average age is 3-4 years so yours were due for replacement soon regardless.

As you already know, it is important to change them both out at the same time.

Whether that is the entire cause of your electrical gremlin I cannot say.

 

[PhotoKevin]

Thanks. I did need some sanity.

I plan to take them to NAPA in the morning to see if they can test them. Of the stores I have access to, that seems to be the best choice.

That will at the very least eliminate the batteries as the problem. My worry was that will all the weird problems (dome light and marker light flashing and the wipers coming on) I was thinking that they screwed up something in the steering column when they replaced the switch.

This attempted theft has been nagging at me since it happened. Heck, the cop did not even show up. He just phoned it in. I took the photos. Then fighting two deductibles for insurance (one for the truck and another for the stuff they took out of it) and some folks I know, when I made the comment of he deserved "a double tap and one to the head" actually sympathized with the a-hole saying "well, you don't know what kind of background he came from."

Having problems adjusting to the move from Alaska to the "left side" of a "left coast" state. Politically I have always been pretty much middle of the road live and let live but, this area is very different from any I have lived. In a military career, I lived a few places. The Seattle area is unique.

Thanks for your help.

Kevin

Just noticed you have a ScanGauge. Do you like it? The only gauge I have is a column mounted pyro.

 

[PhotoKevin]

I did put a cyclops fuel cut off in. That made me feel a bit safer. I did take it out today just to make sure it was not the problem. The company assured me that it drew very little.

Vandal Alert's "No-Start" Anti-Theft Relay

 

[ArcticDriver]

Just noticed you have a ScanGauge. Do you like it? The only gauge I have is a column mounted pyro.

The ScanGauge is a great tool and not very expensive at $130. I rely on it several times each day.

 

[PhotoKevin]

Well I replaced the batteries and so far so good. I will be watching for a drain but all the weird stuff has not returned. Maybe the low voltage makes the thing a bit nuts.

In test it looks like one battery had a bad cell. The other tested very low for CCA.

I replaced them with like Motorcraft batteries. The Ford place had a pretty good deal for a similar battery and the warranty was better.

Thanks,

Kevin

 

[ArcticDriver]

Thats great news.

Those old batteries were causing your alternator extra work as well.

One thing I might suggest is to clean up your terminals with a wire brush so that they don't have any corrosion on them.
Do the same to the battery posts and put those little chemically treated red/green felt pads ($2/pair) underneath.
That corrosion can result in shortening the life of a battery quickly.

 

[79jasper]

Clean the battery with a baking soda/water mixture.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

 

[PhotoKevin]

Thats great news.

Those old batteries were causing your alternator extra work as well.

One thing I might suggest is to clean up your terminals with a wire brush so that they don't have any corrosion on them.
Do the same to the battery posts and put those little chemically treated red/green felt pads ($2/pair) underneath.
That corrosion can result in shortening the life of a battery quickly.

Thanks for the reminder on cleaning but, that is SOP whenever I take it off. Looking at the tool, I could use another one. Will pick one up next time I see one in the store. Did not remember the felt disks. I will look for some.

My alternator has been replaced. It was back on '12 when I got the last set of batteries. Hopefully, I will not have to replace is soon. The display on the idle controller shows that the voltage is good when the engine is running.

My truck does sit a bit these days. I am researching a trickle charger. So far on guy says you can use one but the pos needs to be hooked to one battery and the neg to the other. Just thinking about something to keep it topped up. I have a real charger when I need it.

K

 

[ArcticDriver]

Here is a thread that discusses trickle chargers and one method of wiring it. Its a project on my list. I have the marinco for the block heater and will install another for the trickle charger.

I have now been using the NOCO brand for over 15 months and I am happy with it.

http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f24/e99-battery-troubles-547410/#post3971937

 

[PhotoKevin]

Here is a thread that discusses trickle chargers and one method of wiring it. Its a project on my list. I have the marinco for the block heater and will install another for the trickle charger.

I have now been using the NOCO brand for over 15 months and I am happy with it.

http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f24/e99-battery-troubles-547410/#post3971937

Thanks for the hints. As to the Marinco, which plugin do you have. I always wanted one for my heaters. (we lived in Alaska)

Where did you install the Marinco Plug?

Latest update. Truck started fine today. I need to let it sit for a few and see if it discharges.

Kevin

 

[ArcticDriver]

Thanks for the hints. As to the Marinco, which plugin do you have. I always wanted one for my heaters. (we lived in Alaska)

Where did you install the Marinco Plug?

Latest update. Truck started fine today. I need to let it sit for a few and see if it discharges.

Kevin

My Marinco Mod was actually a NOCO brand that mounted by three small screws (I switched them out to small stainless bolts). I chose NOCO because the rubber cover is a more pliable rubber material than the Marinco and remained more flexible in Fairbanks winter temperatures.

But I bought the genuine Marinco for my other truck because it has the large threaded locking ring from the back rather than the 3 screws which are visible in the photo.

EDIT:
I chose this position on the bumper since one day I will forget to unplug it and in this forward facing location, the cord will simply pull straight out.

When I install a plug for the trickle charger I will mount it on the mirror image passenger side.

 

[PhotoKevin]

My Marinco Mod was actually a NOCO brand that mounted by three small screws (I switched them out to small stainless bolts). I chose NOCO because the rubber cover is a more pliable rubber material than the Marinco and remained more flexible in Fairbanks winter temperatures.

But I bought the genuine Marinco for my other truck because it has the large threaded locking ring from the back rather than the 3 screws which are visible in the photo.

EDIT:
I chose this position on the bumper since one day I will forget to unplug it and in this forward facing location, the cord will simply pull straight out.

When I install a plug for the trickle charger I will mount it on the mirror image passenger side.

Are you in Colorado now or in Fairbanks? When were you in Fairbanks? We lived there for 15 years.

Bought my truck new from Seekins.

Kevin

 

[north2000]

Hello, my experiences is if the wiper blades come on with just the key being installed to start, is a tattle tale sign your Batteries are to low to a tempt trying to start your truck, so don't and go find your Battery charger for a top up.
plus when you purchased your Batteries from Ford, Ford now tells me that the 750 cca amp Batteries for your Truck are the best option if a Diesel as the Plates inside are specially designed for rattle shakers as our Diesel shake, buying higher amp Batteries don't have this added protection and will fail earlier if bought. and I learned that the hard way 850 amp Battery life 2-3 years and my 750 amp's are going on 5-6 years and my original stock Batteries when I bought the truck new lasted me 7 years before they failed. Just a thought to consider.

 

[PhotoKevin]

Hello, my experiences is if the wiper blades come on with just the key being installed to start, is a tattle tale sign your Batteries are to low to a tempt trying to start your truck, so don't and go find your Battery charger for a top up.
plus when you purchased your Batteries from Ford, Ford now tells me that the 750 cca amp Batteries for your Truck are the best option if a Diesel as the Plates inside are specially designed for rattle shakers as our Diesel shake, buying higher amp Batteries don't have this added protection and will fail earlier if bought. and I learned that the hard way 850 amp Battery life 2-3 years and my 750 amp's are going on 5-6 years and my original stock Batteries when I bought the truck new lasted me 7 years before they failed. Just a thought to consider.

Thanks

That is the conclusion I came to. My interior lights were blinking as well. The guy at Ford parts told me pretty much the same thing on the batteries Except for the shaking part. my first set got me about a dozen years. The second about 5.

During this last episode, the batteries would not really take a charge. One tested very low cranking amps and the other a (most likely) a dead cell. I don't drive the truck as much as I used to. I am looking into a trickle charger to keep it up.

 

[ArcticDriver]

I recall a discussion a couple years ago that indicated there was a difference between the batteries installed from the factory and the batteries available at the Ford Parts counter. The factory installed batteries were reputed to be superior.

Which model did you buy? BXT-56 ?

Here is a post by NYB...as always...a thoroughly researched post:

http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/1631713-post5.html

 

[ArcticDriver]

The BSD-65 (Battery Super Duty) that NYB discusses does not appear to be in production any longer.

 

[PhotoKevin]

The BSD-65 (Battery Super Duty) that NYB discusses does not appear to be in production any longer.

I will check.

K