Battery problem

3364 Views 13 Replies 5 Participants Last post by yan7gin, Jan 17, 2016

Guffey6

Discussion Starter · Jan 15, 2016

Hey guys, I have a 1988 f250 7.3 and my gear shifter broke off right above the transmission (zf5) so I welded it back. I removed both battery negative cables before I started. The next couple of mornings I went to start the truck and had low voltage. Like 5.3 volts on the cranking battery. So I had the alt checked and the stator came back as bad, luckily it was still under warranty so I replaced it. The next morning, same thing low voltage but this time it was .3 volts. I took the battery to Walmart to have it checked , it was less than a year old. After waiting 1hr and a half it came back good. So I get back home and check amp draw with everything off( even underhood light) and I had a 3.5 amp draw. I checked every in cab fuse one at a time with no change. I had to leave for work shortly after. As I return this weekend I bought a new voltage regulator from advance. Hooked it up and no fix, the amp draw is now dang near 5 amps. I'm needing help with this one guys. Oh and my battery light is on as well.

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Steve83

· #5 · Jan 15, 2016

Guffey6 said:
...5.3 volts on the cranking battery.

Exactly where were the meter probes when you got that reading, and what meter were you using? Are the meter's batteries good?

Guffey6 said:
I took the battery to Walmart to have it checked...

That's like taking a waffle iron to IHOP to get it checked. A parts store would have been better; a dealership is usually the best. Click this & read the caption:

Guffey6 said:
...check amp draw with everything off...

Again: exactly where & how did you measure this current?

Guffey6 said:
...I bought a new voltage regulator from advance. Hooked it up...

Does your truck have a 1G alternator?

I would have expected it to have a 2G.

If you EVER find a problem with that alternator, I highly recommend you swap to a 130A 3G. It's nearly a bolt-on mod, even when switching from a 1G.

Guffey6 said:
...my battery light is on as well.

You should start by thoroughly inspecting, cleaning, & tightening (ONLY if necessary) the battery terminals. If any are damaged, ruined, or the wrong kind, follow the instructions in this photo album to replace them:

After the batteries are fully charged (SLOWLY <5A for several hours), check idling voltage at 3 locations: across each battery, and from the alternator case to its output stud. Post the results.

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Steve83

· #11 · Jan 16, 2016 (Edited)

ArcticDriver said:
These batteries are hooked up in series...

Parallel. Connecting batteries in series ADDs their voltage; connecting them in parallel adds their AMPERAGE (or Amp-hours).

Guffey6 said:
Tomorrow morning I will see what the voltage reads.

Disconnect EITHER terminal from EITHER battery (one is enough) while you measure voltage across each battery's posts.

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