[Doctorsmack03]

I have done a lot of research and searching and have come to the conclusion that I need to ask for help. I added LED turn signal bulbs along with resistors to my truck about two years ago to my 2012 F250 6.7. They work perfectly as long as I have my parking lights on(no hyper flash). If I forget to turn on my parking lights and hit my blinker, I get hyper flash. I immediately turn on the parking lights and the hyper flash goes away. After a month or two of sometimes forgetting to turn on my parking lights, the BCM stored up enough faults to set a DTC code and disable the left or right blinker circuit. After some research, I figured out that a simple DTC erase with a handheld programmer allowed everything to return back to normal. A year later after forgetting to turn on the parking lights numerous times again, the BCM disabled the left or right blinker circuit(don't recall which one). I used the handheld programmer again to erase the DTC codes and all was back to normal again. Fast forward to two weeks ago and the hyper flash started on the right side, but no amount of handheld programmer erasing fixes the problem. There is no voltage on the front right blinker wire. The right mirror light works, the rear right blinker works and the whole left side blinker set is all working fine. I have contacted the company that I bought these bulbs from and they assure me that there is a fix that I will be looking into. For now, I will remove the LED bulbs and switch back to stock.

Now, I have done two weeks of internet searching and I just need some clarification from someone that knows. Here are the options that have been presented to me from the internet, my local Ford Dealer and a local authorized Ford repair shop...
1. Buy a new BCM from Ford. When it arrives, I can have the authorized shop or Ford Dealer with IDS software download my "As Built" data and install it. But, they are on backorder with no estimated ship date.
2. My local shop says he has a used BCM that he can install and program using the IDS software.
3. I found a company called Module Experts that claims that they can rebuild my BCM. They specialize I told him my issues and he says they can fix it in three days. I was under the impression that these were not repairable, but they seem to believe they know how. This is a very cost effective option.

So, I would like some feedback from the brains of the group. I do not know enough to speak on the subject. I have my fingers crossed that the BCM rebuild company is a viable option. It would save me a lot of money. But, I'm not much for gambling. I would hate to send it to them and lose a week of time for nothing.

Thanks in advance...

 

[Stroking it]

You need to get www.Forscan.org get the wired OBDll connector to figure out if the BCM is toast. If it was me and you are having that much trouble with lights i would throw them away. Some guys get theirs at Automotive LED Replacement Bulbs & Lighting Upgrades

 

[Doctorsmack03]

I have an obd ii connector that can be plugged into my computer and can download forscan. Forgive my ignorance, but how is Forscan able to determine if the BCM is toast?

 

[Stroking it]

It can run tests when it starts up. It doesn't just clear codes. You can rewrite some of them to customize some of the BCM.

 

[Doctorsmack03]

Ok. I’ll get that downloaded today and hook it up. Thanks

 

[Stroking it]

Keep us posted. I would differently ditch those lights if in fact they fried your BCM.

 

[Doctorsmack03]

Will do. I have a family medical delay, but as soon as I get a result through Forscan I will post it.

 

[Doctorsmack03]

I grabbed the OBD2 to USB cable that I have used in the past on my motorcycle and it won't communicate with Forscan. It errors out every time it gets to the COM3 test and flashes the error, "No adapter found." I'll see what I can learn through some more research and look at buying another cable.

 

[Doctorsmack03]

When I first started having this issue, @ford_doctor responded that he had seen plow light modules fry BCMs in the past. I'm wondering if there was ever a repair for the people running plows that could potentially help me.

 

[ford_doctor]

When I first started having this issue, @ford_doctor responded that he had seen plow light modules fry BCMs in the past. I'm wondering if there was ever a repair for the people running plows that could potentially help me.

Care to link to the post? This does not sound right.

But - on that subject I have seen plow lighting mess with module-controlled lighting. The Ford end of it will do what it is supposed to. In any plow lighting related concerns, disconnecting the plow lighting/wiring/isolation modules corrects the vehicle lighting concerns. With that said, have you tried removing your LEDs and see if the concern goes away? AND the advice on codes is good - knowing any codes that are set will be insightful.

 

[Doctorsmack03]

I’m not sure how to link the post, so I’ll throw the link in here. There isn’t much information there, you just had knowledge on the subject from previous plow light issues…
Hyper Flash Issue
I have removed the Retrofit Source switchback LED bulbs and installed the factory bulbs. As stated before, the hyper flash is still there on the right side blinker. The front doesn’t blink, the rear does. Now, I need to find a solution for my BCM shutting down that front right blinker permanently. BCMs are on backorder since the chips that they are made of are on backorder. I may send my BCM to a module repair facility, I just don’t have any knowledge as to whether or not it will fix the issue.

 

[ford_doctor]

I’m not sure how to link the post, so I’ll throw the link in here. There isn’t much information there, you just had knowledge on the subject from previous plow light issues…
Hyper Flash Issue
I have removed the Retrofit Source switchback LED bulbs and installed the factory bulbs. As stated before, the hyper flash is still there on the right side blinker. The front doesn’t blink, the rear does. Now, I need to find a solution for my BCM shutting down that front right blinker permanently. BCMs are on backorder since the chips that they are made of are on backorder. I may send my BCM to a module repair facility, I just don’t have any knowledge as to whether or not it will fix the issue.

Have you performed ANY diagnostics at all besides changing the bulbs? The hyper flash is the BCM indicating there is a circuit malfunction and used as a "bulb out" indication - simulates the operation of a blinker using a flasher. The reason I asked about codes is that the BCM should be setting a code for the right front blinker - each one has it's own separate circuit wired to the BCM which is why checking for codes is necessary to identify and diagnose the proper circuit... and I see you mentioned DTCs but have not listed them. Diagnosing that circuit for an open or shorted condition is necessary before condemning the module and you should also verify the ground circuit and any bulb socket (as equipped) while you are there. I would hate to see you replace the BCM and still have the concern!

 

[Doctorsmack03]

Here is the diagnostics performed so far…
Two years ago I installed LED bulbs and resistors in the front parking/turn signal 3157 socket. They came with load resistors to combat the hyper flash. If I didn’t turn on the parking light, I would get hyper flash. The LED company, Retrofit Source still doesn’t know why. Now, they sell the bulbs with a note that says, “FORD AND TOYOTA VEHICLES: There is known issues with how the factory wiring functions using switchback bulbs. Because of these known issues, we cannot recommend them for Ford or Tacoma / Tundra vehicles at this time..” After multiple hyper flash sessions, even turning the parking lights on didn’t fix it. So in June, I posted my problem here. Using my SCT programmer, I read DTCs, but nothing showed up. I cleared DTCs just in case and the hyper flash was gone. Fast forward to three weeks ago and the front right blinker circuit stopped working again. My rear right blinker and mirror are hyper flashing. I used my SCT programmer to clear DTCs just like I had done in the past. In this case though, it did not fix the hyper flash. So I removed all of the aftermarket lighting, reinstalled the factory bulbs and cleared DTCs again. That did not fix the issue either. There is no +12v on the flasher wire at the parking light 3157 bulb socket. I have checked all of the fuses attached to the parking lights and turn signals. I have swapped relays under the engine bay and have had no change. So at this point I need to find a way to read the DTCs, but Forscan isn’t working with the OBD2/USB cable I have. I also have an Autel scanner so I will plug that in and see if it has any good info. In the meantime, I will buy a new OBD2/USB cable for Forscan.
I also wanted to note that the front right parking light is still working like it should.

 

[Doctorsmack03]

The autel scanner scanned the BCM and found the following faults. I did not clear them yet. I wanted to post them here first.

 

[ford_doctor]

The B123B-11 indicates the right turn signal circuit short to ground. (excessive current draw detected) That is why the module is shutting it down and cycling the mirror and mirror light fast.

IF the truck has plow wiring installed disconnect it and restore the factory connections. If there is plow wiring or once was, inspect the wiring behind the headlamp for damage - plow installers tap into the directional circuits there. If nothing obvious, testing the circuit for shorts and resistance (a load test is always a good idea too).

 

[Doctorsmack03]

I apologize for the confusion, but my truck never had plow lights. That was just a question I asked as in, "what is the fix for the guys running plow lights that had issues?" I just had the 3157 LED bulbs installed with the resistors.

The wiring on my truck is in good shape. There was a t-tap linking the resistors originally, but those have been removed and the wire is not corroded and it is covered in electrical tape.

Pardon my ignorance, but looking at the diagram you provided, can you explain exactly what I am looking at? I see that is the BCM and I know that is the smart "fuse box" located in the passenger side floorboard. It looks like F13 is the hot wire coming in and everybody in the box comes off of it like a distribution box. So is C2280F the wire for the parking and turn lamps or is it a relay that I should test or? Thanks again for all of this info.

 

[ford_doctor]

The diagram is for reference - circuit CLS25 YE-VT is for the right front turn signal and shows the connector and pin at the BCM. Fuse 13 supplies voltage internally to the lamp output which is controlled by the module and a FET transistor. The module is turning off the right front turn signal because it is sensing a short to ground or excessive current draw. That is why it is important to verify the harness and circuit integrity. If that tests good then them BCM is suspect.

I understand no plow... Just lookin out for ya is all. If you brought your truck to me and I sold you a BCM and the concern was not repaired because the harness was chafing somewhere and grounding or the ground had high resistance you would be pissed because I didn't perform the proper diagnostics.

And, as of this post, I ordered a BCM for a customer 6 weeks ago... still no part and still no release date. Theoretically you have plenty of time to test the wiring and be certain.

 

[ELLISDK]

I have done a lot of research and searching and have come to the conclusion that I need to ask for help. I added LED turn signal bulbs along with resistors to my truck about two years ago to my 2012 F250 6.7. They work perfectly as long as I have my parking lights on(no hyper flash). If I forget to turn on my parking lights and hit my blinker, I get hyper flash. I immediately turn on the parking lights and the hyper flash goes away. After a month or two of sometimes forgetting to turn on my parking lights, the BCM stored up enough faults to set a DTC code and disable the left or right blinker circuit. After some research, I figured out that a simple DTC erase with a handheld programmer allowed everything to return back to normal. A year later after forgetting to turn on the parking lights numerous times again, the BCM disabled the left or right blinker circuit(don't recall which one). I used the handheld programmer again to erase the DTC codes and all was back to normal again. Fast forward to two weeks ago and the hyper flash started on the right side, but no amount of handheld programmer erasing fixes the problem. There is no voltage on the front right blinker wire. The right mirror light works, the rear right blinker works and the whole left side blinker set is all working fine. I have contacted the company that I bought these bulbs from and they assure me that there is a fix that I will be looking into. For now, I will remove the LED bulbs and switch back to stock.

Now, I have done two weeks of internet searching and I just need some clarification from someone that knows. Here are the options that have been presented to me from the internet, my local Ford Dealer and a local authorized Ford repair shop...
1. Buy a new BCM from Ford. When it arrives, I can have the authorized shop or Ford Dealer with IDS software download my "As Built" data and install it. But, they are on backorder with no estimated ship date.
2. My local shop says he has a used BCM that he can install and program using the IDS software.
3. I found a company called Module Experts that claims that they can rebuild my BCM. They specialize I told him my issues and he says they can fix it in three days. I was under the impression that these were not repairable, but they seem to believe they know how. This is a very cost effective option.

So, I would like some feedback from the brains of the group. I do not know enough to speak on the subject. I have my fingers crossed that the BCM rebuild company is a viable option. It would save me a lot of money. But, I'm not much for gambling. I would hate to send it to them and lose a week of time for nothing.

Thanks in advance...

Try switching your emergency flasher relay with one that has less resistance. Like one from a Toyota Camry or Honda Accord. Take your relay with you to the auto parts store and keep trying different years until you find one that matches your prong orientation. Should work perfectly. Work for me about 12 times. Different vehicles each time. Even in my truck 2006 F250 6.0.

 

[ford_doctor]

Try switching your emergency flasher relay with one that has less resistance. Like one from a Toyota Camry or Honda Accord. Take your relay with you to the auto parts store and keep trying different years until you find one that matches your prong orientation. Should work perfectly. Work for me about 12 times. Different vehicles each time. Even in my truck 2006 F250 6.0.

These trucks do not have a flasher relay - turn signals and hazard lamps are module controlled.

 

[dapa1]

.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk