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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Amongst the many other changes being considered for my baby. Whats the overall opinion of the feasibility of changing out the diffs from the 4.10's I have to 3.55s? Fairly difficult/impractical or a moderatly difficult swap and what'll be needed.

The truck is primarily used as a daily commuter with occasional 5-6 K tows (maily to hunting camp).

What'll the overall impact to me be?
 

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[ QUOTE ]
What'll the overall impact to me be?

[/ QUOTE ]

The cost
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
What am I gnereally looking at in cost? Any special changes needed? Or can I just "bolt on/bolt off".
 

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Just find a complete rearend in a salvage yard with the ratio you want. Drop drive shaft, probably change out brake cables and if your fussy, new U bolts, depending on shape of old ones. The last one we did was $350.00 for the rearend. Depending on salvage yard may be up to $500.00 so check around. You may have to redo brakes and a couple of other small things things but it's a couple hour job and not real expensive. Just be sure to check the free play or backlash in your replacement axle to make sure it's good. Just turn a wheel on one side back and forth and feel how far it turns before catching another gear. If you have a four wheel drive it get's a little more involved, still doable just takes more time and a little more money.

Greg
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yes its a 4wd. Of course. What year diss can I use in tmy truck and what recalibration will I need for the tranny afterwards?
 

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I'm not sure what year diffs. you can use. As for the tranny, you will need to change the speedometer gear. But, the main reason for my reply is to tell you to never re-use axle u-bolts. The same reason you don't re-use head bolts is why you don't re-use axle u-bolts. They stretch after being torqued the first time you use them. Just ask the guy where you buy your suspension parts if you can re-use the u-bolts. Tim
 

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Personally I'd swap to something like a 14-bolt. The 10.25 ford rears we have are junk. They look big but I've never seen one live long that was abused. Seen alot go down because the wheel bearings weren't getting oil and seized up. A 14-bolt is alot stronger and cheaper, and you won't have a problem finding one at all.
 

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The 10.25 ford rears we have are junk. They look big but I've never seen one live long that was abused. Seen alot go down because the wheel bearings weren't getting oil and seized up.

[/ QUOTE ]

got to say I have never heard that one, alot of PSD's making 400 RWHP with this same axle and no problems from "abuse" /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif

any year axle from '93-97 will work as long as it has the speed sensor in the pumpkin. where are you located???

as for the front end and year D50 will work, all you will have to do is swap out the differential, it bolts to the back of the left TTB.

Diesel Rod
 

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If you've got a Dana 44 front diff. there are lots of them around. There seem to be more 410's than 355"s and now there are lots of people switching so look around and check a few different places. If you have a Dana 50 those are harder to come by and more expensive. As far as years 1983 thru 1997 should all work.

Greg
 

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what years an be used in you rig???

i had a '95 4x4 stroker that had '87 axles (3:55's) and then we swapped a '94 4x4 stroker axles in its place (4:10). then we traded the 4:10 ring and pinions for a set of 3:55's form a 93 4x4.

so we ened up with:
'95 stroker got '94 axles and '93 3:55's
'94 stroker got '87 axles and '94 3:55's
'93 turbo diesel got '87 4:10's

its all switched around. i feel srry for the guys who got the truck and didnt realize the year modle of the axles/gears... we traded all the trucks a few months ago.... Gibson
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I'm in Iraq, but the rig is in Graham Washington where I'll be in December.

As my profile shows I've checked the driveline as much as possible, but my assumption was that the "50" cast into the front diff meant Dana 50. The rear I read off a the data tag and cross referenced (if my memory doesn't fail me).

Are all Dana diff's of a certain # set at x.xx gearing? In other words are Dana 50 all set at 4.55 etc.... Is there a reference chart about this?

What's this about the 14 bolt pattern?

Myplan is for the 3.55 to get me more mileage on the daily commute and still have enough for my light-medium duty towing.
 

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no not all D50's were set to a certain gear ratio. 3:55's were the standard, 4:10's were optional.

The rear is a Sterling 10.25, the early fords were Dana 70's up till I think '92??????

You will be pretty much stuck using a Sterling unless you want to do some interesting fab work, as your speedo has a sensor in the rear diff that it NEEDS to work.

gears out of a Sterling 10.5 will work, these were used in the SD trucks, 3:55's, 4:10's (3:73's and 4:33's were optional) and D50 up front is pretty easy to get gears for if your gunna go new.

Diesel Rod
 

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[ QUOTE ]
I'm in Iraq, but the rig is in Graham Washington where I'll be in December.

As my profile shows I've checked the driveline as much as possible, but my assumption was that the "50" cast into the front diff meant Dana 50. The rear I read off a the data tag and cross referenced (if my memory doesn't fail me).

Are all Dana diff's of a certain # set at x.xx gearing? In other words are Dana 50 all set at 4.55 etc.... Is there a reference chart about this?

What's this about the 14 bolt pattern?

Myplan is for the 3.55 to get me more mileage on the daily commute and still have enough for my light-medium duty towing.

[/ QUOTE ]

14 bolt is a GM corporate axle /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif If I was swapping in a non-matching axle, I'd at least use a Dana axle. Ford vans use Danas with the VSS sensor in the housing. I don't know what the width difference is.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
To recap all this info. My truck has a:

Sterling 10.25 rear end and a Dana 50 front both (4:10s).

I can use any diffs from 93-97 for the year (AS long as they have the speed sensor) and any D50 for the front (any which is geared for 3.55).

Its easier to swap complee axles rather than rings and gears.

I'll be limiting my towing ability to around 5-6K.

I'll need to use new mounting u-bolts.

Here's a chart of dana diff's I found. The Dana 50 is mentioned, but not pictured.

http://www.onandoffroad4wheeldrive.com/axle_pics.htm

How will this change affect my E4OD?
 

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Yes a full axle swap is easier then a gear swap, provided you can live with a used axle, as for the front I would just swap the pumkin/carrier and leave the axles/TTB in place.

might have a slight increase in temp due the extra load on the trans, but even that should be near nill.

Diesel Rod
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Well since I was planning on putting an extra tranny cooler anyways...

So has anyone else done this?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I'm back again with the differential thread. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif I went and re-read all the posts, have updated my sig, and have called at least one differntial shop.

The injector pump/lines/exhaust manifold gets done first (Thursday - why? 130K miles, less power, light grey smoke as I cruise, mpg down to 14.5 or so), then it'll be on to the diff changes.

My local shop checked and said "they don't make a gear set to change 4.10 to 3.55s for that diff". /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif Dana 50 F, Dana 70 R.

Any help there? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif

Also I did get PM a LOOOONG time ago offerng a set of axels, but that was last July. Still available?
 
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