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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, my truck requires new ball joints. What brand is best? I'm looking at Moog. Opinions please?
 

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I use moog on all my 4x4 trucks.
 

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MotorCraft, of course.
 

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I've had multiple sources tell me Moog isn't what it used to be but still the best aftermarket option out there. Motorcraft is the safest bet for long life but only a 2 year warranty.

Moog is lifetime warranty but likely will require the hassle of changing more often. And alignments that go with it if your talking steering parts.

My truck has 400K on it, I have put 1 set of Motorcraft ball joints in it 5 years ago and they are still fine.

I'm on my 3rd (original plus 2 more) drivers side outer tie rod end, used aftermarket, currently a Moog.

I just replaced on labor day the Pass side outer tie rod ends, I used Moog to get the lifetime warranty and 1/2 the price but I also know I will likely be doing them again in a few years.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
If Motorcraft is so good, shouldn't they have lasted more than the 99,300 miles? They are not just a little bad!
 

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Dana/Spicer.
Or xrf.
I wouldn't do moog.
I've used lifetime warranty stuff in driveline before, believe me, you don't want to go there. Lol

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Moog whenever available for the last 40 yrs. not a single comeback yet.
 

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If Motorcraft is so good, shouldn't they have lasted more than the 99,300 miles? They are not just a little bad!
There was an issue before the 05+, I'm not sure if it had something to do with the axle upgrade for the coil suspension but , I agree. My 03 lost ball joints very quickly. My current 07 has 400K and had one set of MC replacements and they are still good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Mine is leaf spring not independent. That configuration should be easier on the ball joints, no? I'm still considering brands. What's the best online source for Motorcraft ?
 

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Mine is leaf spring not independent. That configuration should be easier on the ball joints, no?
No difference. Ball joint wear is affected by the weight on the axle, tire size & wheel offset, vertical distance between the upper & lower, and driving conditions; not suspension type.
What's the best online source for Motorcraft ?
The one that gives you the best price the day you check, on genuine correct parts shipped. Check them all: Amazon, eBay, RockAuto, FordPartsGiant...
 

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When I bought mine, Jeff's Bronco graveyard had best price.

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Not really. The upper has a sleeve that floats in the axle ear. It has no positive stop, so the sleeve will always slide to its rest position after a few heat cycles & some road vibration. Yeah, cranking down on the upper nut will cause the tapers to spread the sleeve, and that will produce some friction. But it's still gonna slide after a mile or 2.
 

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I went with XRF last time I replaced them.

XRF USA Inc. K80026 Ball Joint - $22 each plus shipping
XRF USA Inc. K8607T Ball Joint - $33 each plus shipping
 

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Dana/Spicer.
A good choice. That's what was in the axle at the factory, as Ford buys them from Dana.

Not really. The upper has a sleeve that floats in the axle ear. It has no positive stop, so the sleeve will always slide to its rest position after a few heat cycles & some road vibration. Yeah, cranking down on the upper nut will cause the tapers to spread the sleeve, and that will produce some friction. But it's still gonna slide after a mile or 2.
I don't believe that's correct. If you're talking about the camber adjustment sleeve, if it "floated" it wouldn't do it's job of maintaining the camber alignment.
 

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Then take a close look at it next time you're under there. There are keyways to prevent it from rotating, which is what holds the camber adjustment. But it doesn't bottom against them - it floats in them (until it seizes from rust).

.
 

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I think it depends what axle you're talking about.
On a D60, it's slightly different.
I would find it hard to believe that it could move up and down. The "spacer" if you want to call it goes into the hole, then the ball joint spreads it out when it pushes in.


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I would find it hard to believe that it could move up and down.
Then what do you think stops it? Look at the one under your truck - the lip on the camber cam doesn't touch the surface of the axle ear, so what's holding the cam at that location?

The upper ball joint is. The cam floats in the axle ear bore. As I said before: yes, the wedge action of the BJ taper inside the cam creates a lot of friction. But not nearly enough to resist the weight of the truck bouncing through potholes. The only thing that can support that kind of force is the lower BJ. The upper is just there to keep the knuckle in the right position.

Here's a cutaway of a typical BJ steer axle:

 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
This is fascinating. In looking at the BJ cutaway diagram, and the axis line going through the balls center to center, makes me recall something I was told by an old dude back when I sold auto parts in the 80's. He said normally the angle made by drawing the axis line and an imaginary perfect vertical line, meets AT the road. He told me Ford engineers in the late 60's fixed the angle on the Mustang to meet slightly below the surface of the road to make the car stick better. I've always wondered about that. Anyway, I know this is off topic to what ball joints I should buy. But good conversation anyway.
 
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