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If you are mechanically inclined then you can work on this truck. Read the stuff nick mentioned to get you a good base to understand these trucks, they are great but they are their own breed!
As for your question about oil, I run either Motorcraft or rotella conventional diesel 15/40 and I do put in a quart of the Lucas pure synthetic every change. I'm in Texas and my requirements are going to be different than yours though. If you go with synthetic oil I wouldn't worry about additives... (Although I would continue to use additives in the fuel.)
 

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Discussion Starter #22
I have wasted so much time on those rebates and still have not seen a cent. I called their customer service and they told me I had already cashed my two rebates. Said the same for the rebates I sent in for my Dad's truck. My memory is not that bad that I would have forgotten free money ;-)

I don't even waste my time anymore.

Hope you guys have better luck.

OP... Where in CO? When you have time add your personal info and vehicle to your signature.

Cheers
Hi ArcticDriver. I live in Colorado Springs. I will add more to my profile and some pic's of my rides. Thanks for the reply.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
If you are mechanically inclined then you can work on this truck. Read the stuff nick mentioned to get you a good base to understand these trucks, they are great but they are their own breed!
As for your question about oil, I run either Motorcraft or rotella conventional diesel 15/40 and I do put in a quart of the Lucas pure synthetic every change. I'm in Texas and my requirements are going to be different than yours though. If you go with synthetic oil I wouldn't worry about additives... (Although I would continue to use additives in the fuel.)
Hi Gator. Thank you for the info. I am looking forward to getting to know and working on this truck. I ended up buying the T5 rotella for this oil change. I believe I will go with the T6 on the next one and continue to use that. I wanted to do a blend first because I have heard once you go full SYN, it's not good to go back to anything else.

What kind of fuel add do you use and why? Just wondering.
 

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I have a drawer full of those rebates. They count on laziness. They also expire. I don't think switching causes any issues. You just need thinner oil if it gets cold where you are. Diesel rated 10/30 or syn.
 

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I wanted to do a blend first because I have heard once you go full SYN, it's not good to go back to anything else.

What kind of fuel add do you use and why? Just wondering.
I like blends. As far as switching between syn and dino; there are oils that don't mix however... mostly it's a marketing ploy. So don't put too much stock into it.

I use my waste motor oil as my fuel additive. However many will advise against that for many reasons. Personally I'm a fan of Lucas products and can't stand diesel kleen and have several years of trucking behind that preference. A lot of guys will also recommend ctane boosters which aren't a bad idea, but the main thing you are after is a lubricant.
 

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I wanted to do a blend first because I have heard once you go full SYN, it's not good to go back to anything else.

What kind of fuel add do you use and why? Just wondering.
Here is a Shell video which says there is no issue switching back and forth between dino and synthetic:

https://youtu.be/cBS9UtYBgt0

I have tried different concentrations of Stanadyne Performance Formula (blue bottle) fuel treatment and Power Service Diesel-Kleen (silver bottle). I don't see any difference in fuel economy between the two products but my engine runs better with the Diesel-Kleen.

The only downside to Diesel-Kleen is the bottle cap never gets a good seal again once first opened but the smaller Stanadyne bottles are air-tigh.
I saved my small empty bottles of Stanadyne and I have a small funnel. I refill the bottles with 10-oz from a big 64-oz bottle of DK and that is good for one tankful.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
I have a drawer full of those rebates. They count on laziness. They also expire. I don't think switching causes any issues. You just need thinner oil if it gets cold where you are. Diesel rated 10/30 or syn.
I am in a very cold climate Nick. It's 20* outside now and will be 10* in the morning when I get on the road, so I'm going to need a good winter oil. I "think" the T5 blend I bought today will be good for the winter weather. I'm going to make time in the afternoon when it warms up a bit and change the oil.

I seen where someone talked about draining the old oil from the HPOP. Is that something to do or a waste of time? I hope it was the HPOP and I didn't get that wrong. It has been a day ago since I read about that. That's a long time to remember something. :grin2:
 

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Discussion Starter #28
I like blends. As far as switching between syn and dino; there are oils that don't mix however... mostly it's a marketing ploy. So don't put too much stock into it.

I use my waste motor oil as my fuel additive. However many will advise against that for many reasons. Personally I'm a fan of Lucas products and can't stand diesel kleen and have several years of trucking behind that preference. A lot of guys will also recommend ctane boosters which aren't a bad idea, but the main thing you are after is a lubricant.

Hey Gator, I figured the blend is a step up from regular oil and I would stay with it once I start using it. It isn't much more than the regular oil and cheaper than full syn buying 4 Gals.

That's a good way to get rid of the used oil. What is the down side to using it as a fuel treatment? I already learned that octane booster doesn't boost the octane by that much, so I won't waste the money on it again. The used motor oil is a clever idea IMO, as long as it isn't doing more harm than good.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Here is a Shell video which says there is no issue switching back and forth between dino and synthetic:

https://youtu.be/cBS9UtYBgt0

I have tried different concentrations of Stanadyne Performance Formula (blue bottle) fuel treatment and Power Service Diesel-Kleen (silver bottle). I don't see any difference in fuel economy between the two products but my engine runs better with the Diesel-Kleen.

The only downside to Diesel-Kleen is the bottle cap never gets a good seal again once first opened but the smaller Stanadyne bottles are air-tigh.
I saved my small empty bottles of Stanadyne and I have a small funnel. I refill the bottles with 10-oz from a big 64-oz bottle of DK and that is good for one tankful.
Hey ArcticDriver. I was actually looking at those bottles while I was in wallyworld today getting the oil. I didn't want to buy any of it as I have no idea about that sort of thing and I certainly didn't want to start experimenting on this since I have no idea what is and isn't good for the engine.

It's good to know there isn't a problem switching with the oil. I will switch to the blend and stay with it till I decide if I want to go full syn. Once the blend goes in, I won't go back to regular oil.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
I received some awesome news today on the truck. I had to take it in for emission test today in order to get my plates for the truck. The dude doing the test said he was amazed that the truck has 400,051 miles on it. The test goes from 0-35 and the truck blew a 5. He said he see's newer trucks come in with half the miles, not near as much power and blowing way higher numbers. That was a big relief to me. I am feeling great about the engine now. Makes me wonder what some of the other trucks on this site has for millage and how good they are running.

Is there a thread on trucks with millage here? Obviously.... I haven't looked. =)
 

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I am in a very cold climate Nick. It's 20* outside now and will be 10* in the morning when I get on the road, so I'm going to need a good winter oil. I "think" the T5 blend I bought today will be good for the winter weather. .....
Synthetic, synthetic blend, non-synthetic doesn't matter. What matters is the viscosity. The best viscosity for your temps is 5w-40. You are probably going to have to buy synthetic to get that viscosity.
 

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I already learned that octane booster doesn't boost the octane by that much, so I won't waste the money on it again.

Gas as octane diesel as cetane

Cetane booster is not a muss but your engine will like it. Those engine like diesel at 50 cetane and most of the pump station are around 40 or 45 if you take shell power V or something like that.

Unlike the octane booster witch rise the number by point (.3 .5 ......) the cetane will raise the number.

Exemple you take 87 octane at the pump and add octane booster to go up of 3. Well you will be at 87.3 not 90

If you do the same to diesel and add cetane booster, your 40 will now be 43 and not 40.3

So cetane booster is not a waste of money and don't forget injector cleaner and lubrification

Hope i did explain it good, im not totally woke up yet, cofe not ready and have hard time witw my english this morning



Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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Diesel requires Cetane. Gassers require octane. Completely different animal and Cetane boosters do actually help out.

The main issues with using waste motor oil are that it is dirty, will contain some moisture, and doesn't completely mix with your diesel.
The biggest of these being that it's dirty. If you do choose to use it I would strongly recommend doing the pre-pump filter and helper pump mod.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Ok Gent's. I have the oil changed and added Diesel Kleen. She is purring like a kitten. What a difference. I also bought the ScanGauge2 but I'm a bit of a dork when it comes to these things. I can't seem to get to the area where I can view trans temp and advanced features. In the basic stuff, I don't know the HP of the engine. just crazy little stuff that is keeping me from dialing it in.

Can anyone walk me thru this?
 

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Ok Gent's. I have the oil changed and added Diesel Kleen. She is purring like a kitten. What a difference. I also bought the ScanGauge2 but I'm a bit of a dork when it comes to these things. I can't seem to get to the area where I can view trans temp and advanced features. In the basic stuff, I don't know the HP of the engine. just crazy little stuff that is keeping me from dialing it in.

Can anyone walk me thru this?
I will find my instructions and walk you through it.

Some of the readings you want will have to be hand entered the first time and are detailed in the part of the manual called X-Guages.

This is a good thread and ArcticatDan's post #21 is good reference:

http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f24/scangauge-ii-7-3l-284446/index2.html


.
 

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Discussion Starter #36 (Edited)
Good morning Gent's.

Thank you ArcticDriver for the thread tip. I found some codes online and looked at the ones in the thread you mentioned and some of the numbers from what I found online were different, so I changed them to the thread codes. I have put them in the scangauge2 and they seem to be working fine.

I have the most important ones displayed on the screen. (Trans temp, oil temp, coolant temp). I am going to be pulling a cargo trailer from here to MO to pick up my mini van and a few boxes. The trailer is 8.5 x 20. Going over I'll be empty, but coming back, will be loaded with the van and stuff.

Is there something else I need to pay attention to on the scangauge that I really should load into it? The only thing I can't figure out is the horse power on the scangauge. Do you know how I can set that up? Is it showing percentage of HP on the scan tool? I have to admit, I'm not the best when it comes to computer stuff.

I appreciate all the advise ya'll have provided for me. You Gent's have been a blessing to me in learning about my new ride and I can't say THANK YOU enough.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Here's my new ride.
 

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That is a serious front bumper !

Concerning the ScanGuage, trust the EOT more than the Coolant temp. The EOT is a direct measurement.

The Trans Fluid Temp (TFT) is a good one to monitor.

The Glow Plug % lets you see how long the GPs will remain on even after the engine starts.

The SGII is a great tool and cheap :thumbsup:
 
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