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Nice! Love the bumper! Nice bed too! Of course I'm a bit partial to stout bumpers and flatbeds...
 

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Discussion Starter #44
Thank you Gent's. I have to admit, for $6500, I believe I didn't go wrong. I plan on doing some add on's in the near future. It needs paint. There are some places that aren't the best, but not down to metal. I love the flat bed as it doesn't stick out past the cab and catch a lot of air. The front bumper is a rancher.

I guess I'll find out tomorrow just what I have. I've got a 1400 round trip pulling the 8.5 x 20 cargo trailer. Empty going and loaded coming back.

As for the scanguage. I took a little ride and the numbers were 141 TFT, 186 EOT, 171 ECT. When I first started out, the ECT went up to 258 and I kept looking at the actual gauge on the dash and it was running where it always has since I bought the truck. The the scangauge dropped the ECT right down to 139 and slowly went to 171. Not sure what that was about. Glitch maybe?

Thank you again for the compliments on the truck Gent's. =)
 

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Discussion Starter #45
Hey Gent's. I am back from my trip to MO. I've got good and bad news.

The truck made it there and back. That is the good news. The bad news is, the truck used about 8 quarts of oil during the trip.

My numbers on the scangauge were, Running during the night, TFT was 141 to 157. EOT was 171 to 180. Running during the day, TFT was 170 to 200. EOT was 180 to 215.

My question is: Should I just have the engine rebuilt since it goes thru that much oil on a 1400 trip?

There was no oil under the truck or on the trailer, so it wasn't leaking it out.

I was running about 70 on the way over, empty. On the return, I was running 65-70 as long as there was a slower trucker that I could run behind. Other wise, it was hard to keep it at 60.

Another question. I know the tow/haul button is there for towing and hauling, but with the button on, I could only do 50ish and the rpm's were around 2000. I didn't end up using it and the truck seemed to do fine. Is that a good way to burn up the trans? Or can the F-350 do a certain amount of load before the tow/haul is used?
 

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There is no parameter for the pcm to read coolant temp on the trucks. The excursions do however.

So ignore coolant temp on the scan gauge because it's false.

If you don't have oil in the exhaust from bad turbo seals id say you need to put new Orings on the injectors.

Most likely don't need an engine overhaul.

I'm confused about your tow/haul issue. The button on the end of the shifter turns overdrive on/off.

If your pulling a hill and have to downshift a lot leave overdrive off and keep rpms up.

If your flat land towing and it's not switching gears a lot leave overdrive on.
 

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Pull your fuel filter and see if it is black. Sounds like you likely have leaking injector orings.
Also the 'tow mode' is really just an overdrive switch. I use mine when towing heavy until I get to speed or if I'm in hills and don't want it shifting all the time.
 

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That oil use is probably the injectors' middle oring leaking. The oil pumps into the fuel rail and gets consumed. The other possibility is the turbo seals are gone and it's pumping oil into the engine where it gets consumed.
If you do not know age history of these injector orings, it will be a good idea to redo them.
 

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Discussion Starter #49
Thank you Nick, Gator and stroker for the reply's. I was really hoping I wasn't going to have to rebuild the engine. I couldn't even begin to imagine what that would cost. I will check the fuel filter first, to see if it's black. I remember someone here had already told me something about checking and replacing the injector o ring's. I really need to get a Haynes or Chilton book or what ever is the best one to get, on this truck.

I truly appreciate the info Gent's.

I'll let you know what I find out.

I can say this about the tow/haul button. When I was on flatter roads, I didn't have it on, but when I came to hills, I would let the engine drop to about 55 mph and then I would click the button on. I didn't want the RPM's to shoot way up since it's a high millage engine. =)
 

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Happy thanksgiving, so ado not worry about rpms like that, she likes them and lugging is bad on a diesel. If it's doggin or shifting up and then dogging and then you manipulate to downshift, turn it off.
Do not waste your money on non ford workshop manuals. There are two biggies, volume one and two, a smaller Powertrain book and a wiring book but you don't need that right now. Just wait and find them on eBay. We can help with whatever you need till then and always.
 

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Discussion Starter #51
Happy Thanksgiving Nick and all here. Nick, I appreciate all you ans everyone here has told me and helped me with. I have watched a few videos on where things are and how to access them. I am in the process of finding o-rings and fuel filter. What is the best ones to get? I was looking at Advanced Auto. I think the o-rings were Dorman. Is that ok or should I get something else?

Thanks again for the help and info.
 

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Cellfisha,

There are two types of fuel filter caps and they each require a different filter element.

There is a one-piece unit like the image below which is aftermarket. It has the filter element permanently attached to the threaded cap.

Popular brands are the WIX and NAPA Gold 3818. (WiX actually makes the NAPA Gold Fuel Filter).

Sidenote: This paper element is treated with a hydroscopic chemical which makes it seperate out water.

Always use the new o-ring provided. The old o-ring actually swells to a larger diameter after being exposed to diesel for an extended period and no longer makes a proper seal.

 

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The second type of fuel filter element is the OEM design which consists of a threaded cap alone and the filter is not attached to the cap. Wiith this style you discard the filter and re-use the threaded cap.

This is the actual OEM style Ford P/N: FD-4596

Sidenote: This filter element has two filters, the outer filter is a mesh material and it is the water seperator and the inner paper element is the micron filter for impurities.

Both styles have o-rings which are beveled.

 

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If the previous owner has been using the WIX one-piece design and did not save the OEM cap then you will need to buy a new cap before you can install the OEM filter.

Clear as mud ? ;-)
 

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Ford only Orings unless you want to do it again soon.

Like nick said rev it up. These trucks make all their power 2300+ rpm. Your not going to hurt anything
 

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Discussion Starter #57
Thank you ArcticDriver for the info. I haven't checked the fuel filter yet to see what's in there. I think oem is good for me.

Stroker. Thank you for the tip on Ford o-rings. I seen some dorman at Advanced. I believe I am going for those unless someone says there are better.

Hey Nick. I am going to replace the o-rings on the injectors and also replace the fuel filter. I watched a video on replacing the o-rings. It looks like a job no doubt. It's been snowing here so I can't do much. I don't have a place out of the weather to work on it yet. That kinda puts a kink in things. =(
 

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Get them from diesel orings.
It's not bad at all. Are they bad or is this preventative?
Invest in a Milwakee M12 cordless 3/8 ratchet, batteries and charger from Home Depot or Amazon.
3/8 6 inch and two or 3 inch extensions.
13mm flex head socket Sears or tool guy
Inch pound torque wrench
Small pry bar
Large soft rubber mallet. Use wood handle to push down injector retaking plate to seat injector instead of hitting the injector coil with the rubber head
13mm deep
Small pry bar.
8mm or 10mm I forget for injector bolts.
Remove Powerstroke plastic cover and it's frame so the studs don't poke you in the gut or ribs
Go to Hitchmate and look at step platform that hangs on front tire.
Get a couple freight blankets from Harbor Freight to Kay out up top if you end up up there.
Be one with the mighty Powerstroke, Grasshopper.
 

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Discussion Starter #59
Get them from diesel orings.
It's not bad at all. Are they bad or is this preventative?
Invest in a Milwakee M12 cordless 3/8 ratchet, batteries and charger from Home Depot or Amazon.
3/8 6 inch and two or 3 inch extensions.
13mm flex head socket Sears or tool guy
Inch pound torque wrench
Small pry bar
Large soft rubber mallet. Use wood handle to push down injector retaking plate to seat injector instead of hitting the injector coil with the rubber head
13mm deep
Small pry bar.
8mm or 10mm I forget for injector bolts.
Remove Powerstroke plastic cover and it's frame so the studs don't poke you in the gut or ribs
Go to Hitchmate and look at step platform that hangs on front tire.
Get a couple freight blankets from Harbor Freight to Kay out up top if you end up up there.
Be one with the mighty Powerstroke, Grasshopper.
Hey Nick,

I have the Milwaukee M12 cordless set. Drill and Impact. Those were a Christmas present to myself last year. They are very impressive for 12 volts.

Not sure if you read my post about my trip to MO, but the truck used 8 quarts of oil there and back. I was told the O-rings are most likely the problem. I'm sure they haven't been replaced, so I am going to do that, after checking and replacing the fuel filter.

I have some of the mm sockets and small pry bar, but will pick up the other items you spoke of. I have a Harbor Freight right down the road, so I can pick up blankets.

I'll look up Diesel O-rings online and get those ordered. I'm looking forward to working on the engine as soon as this snow stops.

I am in hopes I can learn enough avout my new ride, that I can become one with the Powerstroke. :nerd:

Thank you for the info and help Master Nick.

Grasshopper.. :lol:
 

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I'm not a master buddy but thank you.
You can learn a lot here if you want to.
You can do the job in afternoon.
Make sure you clear the cylinders of fluid by turning crank with socket and ratchet with glow plugs out and the spin it.
 
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