Thank you Gator. I did look at the Riffraff site as well. It came up on the search. They do have the o-rings for a little less and the reviews look great. I'm all for saving a buck or two as long as the quality is good.Like nick said get the ones from diesel orings or riffraff. Don't use dorman. There are some dorman parts that are Ok to use, many are not!
If you have doubts about the glow plugs just replace them.
Motorcraft only also.
The valve cover gaskets are reusable unless one of the connectors gets burnt/melted
Thank you jlrsn for all the info. I do appreciate that. The coolant is the same that came in the truck when I bought it. It looks clean and green.I have lived up at 8,000+ feet in the San Juan Range of the Rocky Mountains for the last 10 years and we get down to minus 25̊F and colder every year. Prior to moving here I have operated equipment in the Artic, the Sierras, and even in Siberia in the winter so Arctic Cold is no stranger.
I usually leave my F250 in my heated garage. I’m a Captain in the local Volunteer Fire Department and after midnight after a night fire I leave it outside next to my garage side door. Usually by the time I return home my garage double doors are frozen shut and I don’t feel like the hassle. The problem in the morning then is to dig through 2 to 3 feet of fresh snow to find my door handle and sometimes have to hit the top and rear edges of my doors with my palm to break the ice. I should preheat my Engine but rarely do but if I follow my own recommendations shown below it always starts right up and I have immediate oil pressure.
Since new I had used Delo 400 Multigrade SAE 15W-40 Oil and a Purolator Premium Plus P/N: L44872 Oil Filter. A few years ago I found the Napa Gold Full Flow Oil Filter (Wix 51734) to be a better oil filter and still use it every oil change.
About three years ago when Mobil introduced the Fully Synthetic Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5W-40 Engine Oil, (API: CJ-4, API: CI-4 Plus) I switched over to it for my backhoe tractor and I was so impressed by its performance that two months ago I started to use Fully Synthetic Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5W-40 Engine Oil, (API: CJ-4, API: CI-4 Plus) it in my F250.
Starting with my 1989 7.3L F250 after my Stanadyne Fuel Injector Pump failed I’ve used Stanadyne Performance Formula Diesel Fuel Additive at every fuel refill. I still use it in my 2000 7.3L Engine which does not have a Fuel Injector Pump but now I use it to prevent Diesel Fuel Jelling, increased Cetane, Injector cleaning, etc. Its well worth looking into especially for cold weather. I use it all year and as the Fire Department Trucks Maintenance Officer I use it in all our diesel Fire Trucks. Performance Formula « Stanadyne Additives
To prevent Diesel Engine Cavitation in my 7.3L I use Low Silicate Fleetguard P/N CC2825 ES Compleat Extended Life Ethylene Glycol Antifreeze/Coolant 50/50 Premix. Read the following regarding Cavitation: 7.3L IDI Cavitation
Our Ford 7.3L Engines come with Cavitation Protection since the early 90s but if you changed out your Coolant using a regular Antifreeze it can cost you!
To maintain good cold weather starting I use Lead-Acid Napa Legend Batteries manufactured by Johnson Controls, 12 v, Napa P/N 7565, BCI Number 65, 1,000 Cranking Amps @ 32̊F, 850 Cold Cranking Amps @ 0̊F.
Good luck, the above has worked for me.