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Like nick said get the ones from diesel orings or riffraff. Don't use dorman. There are some dorman parts that are Ok to use, many are not!
 

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Discussion Starter #62
Like nick said get the ones from diesel orings or riffraff. Don't use dorman. There are some dorman parts that are Ok to use, many are not!
Thank you Gator. I did look at the Riffraff site as well. It came up on the search. They do have the o-rings for a little less and the reviews look great. I'm all for saving a buck or two as long as the quality is good.

What are the thoughts on cleaning the glow plugs while I'm in there? Also I was going to ask about the valve cover gaskets. I seen somewhere on here that someone said in a post that they usually don't go bad. Is that a true statement?
 

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If you have doubts about the glow plugs just replace them.

Motorcraft only also.

The valve cover gaskets are reusable unless one of the connectors gets burnt/melted
 

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I have lived up at 8,000+ feet in the San Juan Range of the Rocky Mountains for the last 10 years and we get down to minus 25̊F and colder every year. Prior to moving here I have operated equipment in the Artic, the Sierras, and even in Siberia in the winter so Arctic Cold is no stranger.

I usually leave my F250 in my heated garage. I’m a Captain in the local Volunteer Fire Department and after midnight after a night fire I leave it outside next to my garage side door. Usually by the time I return home my garage double doors are frozen shut and I don’t feel like the hassle. The problem in the morning then is to dig through 2 to 3 feet of fresh snow to find my door handle and sometimes have to hit the top and rear edges of my doors with my palm to break the ice. I should preheat my Engine but rarely do but if I follow my own recommendations shown below it always starts right up and I have immediate oil pressure.

Since new I had used Delo 400 Multigrade SAE 15W-40 Oil and a Purolator Premium Plus P/N: L44872 Oil Filter. A few years ago I found the Napa Gold Full Flow Oil Filter (Wix 51734) to be a better oil filter and still use it every oil change.

About three years ago when Mobil introduced the Fully Synthetic Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5W-40 Engine Oil, (API: CJ-4, API: CI-4 Plus) I switched over to it for my backhoe tractor and I was so impressed by its performance that two months ago I started to use Fully Synthetic Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5W-40 Engine Oil, (API: CJ-4, API: CI-4 Plus) it in my F250.
https://mobiloil.com/en/motor-oils/mobil-1/mobil-1-turbo-diesel-truck

Starting with my 1989 7.3L F250 after my Stanadyne Fuel Injector Pump failed I’ve used Stanadyne Performance Formula Diesel Fuel Additive at every fuel refill. I still use it in my 2000 7.3L Engine which does not have a Fuel Injector Pump but now I use it to prevent Diesel Fuel Jelling, increased Cetane, Injector cleaning, etc. Its well worth looking into especially for cold weather. I use it all year and as the Fire Department Trucks Maintenance Officer I use it in all our diesel Fire Trucks. Performance Formula « Stanadyne Additives

To prevent Diesel Engine Cavitation in my 7.3L I use Low Silicate Fleetguard P/N CC2825 ES Compleat Extended Life Ethylene Glycol Antifreeze/Coolant 50/50 Premix. Read the following regarding Cavitation: 7.3L IDI Cavitation

Our Ford 7.3L Engines come with Cavitation Protection since the early 90s but if you changed out your Coolant using a regular Antifreeze it can cost you!
https://www.cumminsfiltration.com/html/en/products/cooling/coolant/es_compleat/es_compleat.html

To maintain good cold weather starting I use Lead-Acid Napa Legend Batteries manufactured by Johnson Controls, 12 v, Napa P/N 7565, BCI Number 65, 1,000 Cranking Amps @ 32̊F, 850 Cold Cranking Amps @ 0̊F.

Good luck, the above has worked for me.
 

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When you say you have immediate oil pressure...how many seconds does you oil can dashlight stay lit after start-up?

Thanks
 

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Using a gage about 5 seconds max
 
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Discussion Starter #67
If you have doubts about the glow plugs just replace them.

Motorcraft only also.

The valve cover gaskets are reusable unless one of the connectors gets burnt/melted

Thank you Stroker. I don't have any doubt's about the glow plugs. I just seen where some people were taking them out and taking green scrub pad to the ends and cleaning them up while in there replacing o-rings on the injectors. My engine starts ok when I don't plug it in at night and it's been around 10 degrees the past few mornings. I do like plugging it in though. It seems to run much smoother than being way cold.
 

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Discussion Starter #68
I have lived up at 8,000+ feet in the San Juan Range of the Rocky Mountains for the last 10 years and we get down to minus 25̊F and colder every year. Prior to moving here I have operated equipment in the Artic, the Sierras, and even in Siberia in the winter so Arctic Cold is no stranger.

I usually leave my F250 in my heated garage. I’m a Captain in the local Volunteer Fire Department and after midnight after a night fire I leave it outside next to my garage side door. Usually by the time I return home my garage double doors are frozen shut and I don’t feel like the hassle. The problem in the morning then is to dig through 2 to 3 feet of fresh snow to find my door handle and sometimes have to hit the top and rear edges of my doors with my palm to break the ice. I should preheat my Engine but rarely do but if I follow my own recommendations shown below it always starts right up and I have immediate oil pressure.

Since new I had used Delo 400 Multigrade SAE 15W-40 Oil and a Purolator Premium Plus P/N: L44872 Oil Filter. A few years ago I found the Napa Gold Full Flow Oil Filter (Wix 51734) to be a better oil filter and still use it every oil change.

About three years ago when Mobil introduced the Fully Synthetic Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5W-40 Engine Oil, (API: CJ-4, API: CI-4 Plus) I switched over to it for my backhoe tractor and I was so impressed by its performance that two months ago I started to use Fully Synthetic Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5W-40 Engine Oil, (API: CJ-4, API: CI-4 Plus) it in my F250.
https://mobiloil.com/en/motor-oils/mobil-1/mobil-1-turbo-diesel-truck

Starting with my 1989 7.3L F250 after my Stanadyne Fuel Injector Pump failed I’ve used Stanadyne Performance Formula Diesel Fuel Additive at every fuel refill. I still use it in my 2000 7.3L Engine which does not have a Fuel Injector Pump but now I use it to prevent Diesel Fuel Jelling, increased Cetane, Injector cleaning, etc. Its well worth looking into especially for cold weather. I use it all year and as the Fire Department Trucks Maintenance Officer I use it in all our diesel Fire Trucks. Performance Formula « Stanadyne Additives

To prevent Diesel Engine Cavitation in my 7.3L I use Low Silicate Fleetguard P/N CC2825 ES Compleat Extended Life Ethylene Glycol Antifreeze/Coolant 50/50 Premix. Read the following regarding Cavitation: 7.3L IDI Cavitation

Our Ford 7.3L Engines come with Cavitation Protection since the early 90s but if you changed out your Coolant using a regular Antifreeze it can cost you!
https://www.cumminsfiltration.com/html/en/products/cooling/coolant/es_compleat/es_compleat.html

To maintain good cold weather starting I use Lead-Acid Napa Legend Batteries manufactured by Johnson Controls, 12 v, Napa P/N 7565, BCI Number 65, 1,000 Cranking Amps @ 32̊F, 850 Cold Cranking Amps @ 0̊F.

Good luck, the above has worked for me.
Thank you jlrsn for all the info. I do appreciate that. The coolant is the same that came in the truck when I bought it. It looks clean and green.

I have been using fuel additive since I bought the truck. I also added syn blend oil, rotell but my injector o-rings need replacing so it's burning a little oil. I did burn mobile 1 in a gmc jimmy I had and that motor ran for years. =)
 
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