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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My 90 F250 7.3 4wd 5 speed blew a hole in the clutch hydraulic line. I purchased a new line from the ford dealer. My master and slave cylinders from Oreilly are 10 years old and have a lifetime warranty so I am going to replace them at the same time.
When I last replaced them 10 years ago I remember giving up on trying to bleed the system and paying a transmission shop to do the bleeding.
This time my truck has a dump trailer with 3 tons of rocks in it and is parked in a precarious position so I definitely want to bleed the system myself after installing the 3 new parts.
I found the instructions below from a previous post.
Do these instructions work well or any other input to make bleeding more successful/ easy?
Also, how long does the bleeding take? (so I can tell my neighbor who I will ask to help push the clutch how long I need his help for)
Thanks

(I CUT AND PASTED THE INSTRUCTIONS BELOW FROM A PREVIOUS POST)
Bleed Procedure, External Cylinder Clutch Slave, 7.3L Diesel manual Transmission
1. Clean reservoir cap and cylinder clutch slave in area of the tube connection.

2. Remove cylinder clutch slave from the transmission bell housing.

3. Use a 3/32-inch diameter punch to drive out tube holding pin.

4. Remove the tube from the cylinder clutch slave and place tube end into a container for waste fluid.
NOTE:
The tube is connected to the clutch master cylinder, so keep the clutch master cylinder reservoir cap tight to minimize fluid loss.

5. Hold cylinder clutch slave so connector port is at highest point, by tipping cylinder clutch slave to approximately 30 degrees. Fill with approved DOT 3 brake fluid through connector port.

NOTE:
It may be necessary to "rock" cylinder clutch slave around or push gently on push rod to expel all the air. Pushing on push rod too hard will cause fluid to spray out of the connector hole.

NOTE:
Do not allow any moisture or foreign matter to enter slave with brake fluid.

6. When all the air is expelled from the cylinder clutch slave and no more bubbles come out of the port hole, install cylinder clutch slave.
NOTE:
Fluid is expelled from the connector port as the push rod is compressed, attaching it to the transmission and clutch release shaft.

7. Gravity fill the clutch master cylinder and tube as follows.
l Remove the clutch master cylinder reservoir cap and diaphragm.
l Fluid should flow out the open end of the tube into waste container. Be sure to keep the clutch master cylinder reservoir full.
l When fluid is flowing out in a steady, uninterrupted flow and fluid is level with step in clutch master cylinder reservoir, install cap and diaphragm.
l Install end of tube into cylinder clutch slave.
l Replace pin holding tube to body of cylinder clutch slave.
l Remove the slave cylinder from the transmission.
l Holding the cylinder so that the port for the tube is at the highest point, slowly push the pushrod into the cylinder and slowly let it return. Be sure the reservoir is full of fluid beforehand. Repeat this step two more times.
l Reattach the slave cylinder to the transmission.
l Rapidly depress the clutch pedal 10 times through a travel of approximately 1 inch. Wait two minutes.


l If the pedal is not hard within .25 inch to .5 inch of travel, repeat Step D.

8. System should be bled and functioning properly.
l To verify proper system function, set parking brake control (2780) and put vehicle in neutral.
l Start vehicle and shift into reverse gear.
l If gears grind, other components may be causing the concern.
l Check cylinder clutch slave push rod travel as described in this section.

Alternate Method
1. Gravity bleed system in place.
NOTE:
If clutch release shaft cannot be moved toward front of vehicle, the clutch cable bracket is incorrectly set. Replace lever. Refer to «clutch master cylinder push rod» adjustment procedure in this section.
2. From under vehicle, with cylinder clutch slave bleed port closed, push external part of release lever slowly toward front of vehicle and release. Repeat this cycle 10-15 times until you no longer hear bubbles in the clutch master cylinder.
 

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Did you buy the master and slave attached? If so, they used to come pre-bled. First don't remove the plunger stop, until it is installed or you'll pay hell getting it mounted to the bell housing. If it didn't come pre-bled, simply let it hang by the line and release the bleeder. It looks like a set screw, If I remember right, it uses a 3/16" Allen wrench to loosen it. let it hang there with the bleeder screw up, the fluid will gravity feed down to the slave. When it runs out it's bled. I've bled several clutches like that successfully.
 

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Hook them together, bleed the master like you would any master cylinder. Fill it with fluid, work the plunger back and forth slowly until you see the air bubbles stop. Keeping the master full, open the bleed screw, and let the slave fill. I usually do this on the bench whenever possible, it's a lot easier than laying on gravel under the truck. Once everything is bled, thread the slave through to the transmission, and hook up the master. Hook the slave up loosely until you get the plunger stop off the end. then bolt it down and check to see if you have a clutch. I have sometimes had to loosen the bleed screw to get the bolts to start. If that happens be careful not to let the plunger back out, or it will pull air.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hook them together, bleed the master like you would any master cylinder. Fill it with fluid, work the plunger back and forth slowly until you see the air bubbles stop. Keeping the master full, open the bleed screw, and let the slave fill. I usually do this on the bench whenever possible, it's a lot easier than laying on gravel under the truck. Once everything is bled, thread the slave through to the transmission, and hook up the master. Hook the slave up loosely until you get the plunger stop off the end. then bolt it down and check to see if you have a clutch. I have sometimes had to loosen the bleed screw to get the bolts to start. If that happens be careful not to let the plunger back out, or it will pull air.
Thank you. My truck is up in the mountains where I have no house (just a little camper) so my "bench" will be the bed of my truck. So once I do the above then I can just lower the slave and the line down inbetween the engine and the firewall with the slave hanging on the end of the hydraulic line?
 

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Yes that's the way I do it. Then hang the master cylinder and hook it up then put the slave up to where it belongs. Remember don't pull the plunger stop off until it is loosely mounted. Once the plunger extends, the only way to get it to collapse is to let the fluid out of it, unless you're stronger than the pressure plate.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
THANKS!!! So much easier doing it this way! Worked perfectly other than I am not sure if the hydraulic line ended up routed correctly. It ended up against the exhaust and even though it has the heat protection on it I didn’t think it should be touching so I zip tied it to keep it an inch away from the exhaust.


Yes that's the way I do it. Then hang the master cylinder and hook it up then put the slave up to where it belongs. Remember don't pull the plunger stop off until it is loosely mounted. Once the plunger extends, the only way to get it to collapse is to let the fluid out of it, unless you're stronger than the pressure plate.
 
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