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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,
I hate to start a new thread on a topic so widely covered, but I did not see any info on my particular problem in all the searching I've been doing. Plus there seem to be a few methods put forth for bleeding the clutch so I will write about what I've done so far and maybe someone could offer advice?
I replaced my clutch so I had to pull the slave cylinder. Now the new clutch is in and my clutch pedal goes right to the floor- no pressure. SO after doing some research heres what I did:
1. Removed the slave cylinder and disconnected the hydraulic line
2. Filled the slave with DOT3, tapping it repeatedly to expel air
3. reinstalled slave, compressing push rod and expelling some DOT3 in the process- the line is still hanging free
4. I removed the cap and diaphragm from the master, expecing fluid to come out the hydraulic line under the truck.

This is where I have the problem: there is fluid in the master cylinder and it will not flow freely down the hydraulic line at all. My goal was to get a flow of fluid down the line and then reinsert it into the slave, then top off the master and call it good. Thats what the instructions i'm following say to do.

Before I did the clutch job I had good pedal pressure and no reason to believe my master or slave cylinders were shot. I dont know how to troubleshoot a master cylinder.

I dont see cracks in the firewall, as other threads suggest to look for, although what I do have is a leak right at the top of the firewall that lets water in the cab when it rains, theres rust under there and the repeated dripping has caused the nuts of the master cylinder to become rusty, as well as the area where my drive line goes thru the firewall. I'm concerned about the rust, but I need to solve this problem first...
 

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if you got a cap and capped the outlet to the master then you could do a leakdown test on it... just hold pressure and see if it compresses
 

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An effective way to bleed clutch system is by the "Reverse bleed method". Use a good oil can and fill it with the brake fluid, attach a clear hose to the oil can sprout and pump the fluid out of the can to make sure there is no air bubbles. loose slave cylinder bleed nipple one turn and connect hose to bleed nipple. Pump fluid into slave cylinder unit until the resiovor just over flows. In this way all the air trapped exits from the resiovor.
Close nipple and remove hose, clutch should be ready to use.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
if you got a cap and capped the outlet to the master then you could do a leakdown test on it... just hold pressure and see if it compresses
Are you talking about disconnecting the hydraulic fluid line from the master, corking that outlet and then pushing the clutch pedal? And if the clutch pedal drops to the floor my master is broken, if its got pressure then the master is good?
 
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