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This might be a bit long, but...

Last Sunday I bought a 93 F250 with the 7.3 IDI N/A. I test drove it and everything ran perfect. It drove perfect on the 70 mile drive back to my city and I drove it to work. Thats about the end of the "perfectness". The second I got back to town, I lost most of my braking power. The pedal would almost go to the floor. It still stopped, but it felt weak. I checked the brake fluid and it took about 16oz or so. It helped a little. When it was shut off, the pedal could be pumped up but the second I turned it on it felt mushy again.

Well, after that, I drove it home. My driveway is a nasty one. I ended up stuck about halfway down. It was about midnight so I figured I'd just get it out in the morning. The next morning I go to start it and the batteries are completely dead. I went to the store, bought a charger and charged one of the batteries up. Still wouldn't start. Today, I brought BOTH batteries inside, charged them and the truck sounded like it was just on the verge of starting, but still didn't.

Here's the part that I am embarrassed about. In all the excitement of getting a new truck, I kinda forgot to put anti-gel in the tank. When I try to start it, the "water in fuel" light and "fuel filter" light come on when the engine starts turning over. Does this mean that my fuel is gelled?

I would really appreciate any help on getting it started again. Getting it started is my first priority. The brakes are second. I am not mechanically-minded. I would love to be and I absolutely love working on vehicles (with help from others) but I really know next to nothing. With that said, I will not be the least offended if you explain it as though you were explaining this to a 5 year old :lol:. Thanks in advance for any help!
 

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This is the most amazing forum in the world! I've spent 3 days trying to get it started and not 3 minutes after I started this thread, my truck fired right up! Should've joined the forum sooner :).
 

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Welcome to the Diesel Stop.

We do have some telepathic healers, unfortunately I'm NOT one of them.

As far as the brakes, you might start off with a close inspection of all the components (wheel cylinders) brake shoes/pads and such. Then a good bleeding, replacing the fluid in the whole system. Should take about 2 big bottles, start at the rear passenger tire, then the rear drivers side. After that, if you have rear ABS that unit is mounted on the frame under the drivers seat area, bleed it and lastly the front passenger side followed by the drivers side.


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Thanks Chuckster! I've let the truck idle for about 70 minutes now. Can I assume that the anti-gel that I put into the tank has worked its way to the places that it needs to be?

Also, are there any guides on how to bleed these brakes and check everything? A .pdf version of a service manual, like Haynes or Clymer would be amazing. Though free is always better I don't mind paying for it if its legit. I saw some actual books on Ebay, but I prefer .pdf as I lose books all the time, but I have yet to lose my computer.
 

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You should be okay.

Register on AutoZone on-line (free) and lots of help with some pics can be had in the repair section. Other than that, this forum can be your best digital repair guide.


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Bleeding the brakes is not complicated, just don't forget to bleed the RABS valve on the D/S frame
 

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Bleeding the brakes is not complicated, just don't forget to bleed the RABS valve on the D/S frame
I've got the order in which to bleed the brakes but I don't know how to actually do it or even what to bleed. Is it the same for all vehicles? If I watch a couple Youtube videos, will the process be the same on my F250 as it is on the vehicle in the video?
 

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Unless you have special reason to believe otherwise, you always bleed towards the master cylinder. Start with the farthest wheel (rear right) and work your way towards the front left. The RABS is in the middle physically as well as logically since it only operates the rear wheels. It has an ordinary bleeder screw on it, and is bled in the ordinary way - after the rear wheels, and before the front right.

Unless you get a RHD vehicle you're likely to always bleed in this order.
 

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To answer the question you asked, yes most any You Tube video will give you the right idea.

If you don't feel comfortable after watching some, just PM me and I'll be happy to give you detailed instructions.


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To answer the question you asked, yes most any You Tube video will give you the right idea.

If you don't feel comfortable after watching some, just PM me and I'll be happy to give you detailed instructions.


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Thanks. I appreciate that. I have tomorrow off so I will just watch a bunch of videos and learn. I know that bleeding nrakes is not a complicated task, but every time I've helped someone with brake bleeding, I'm always the person in the vehicle pumping the brakes so I've never actually seen it done.
 

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I usually replace my brake bleeder valves with Russell speed bleeders. They are brass bleeders with an integrated check valve in them. You just go to each wheel in turn, open it, pump a few times, then go back and close it. You don't need fluid in the bottom of a bottle or anything, just to hook up a catch can. You can also get a check valve from your local hardware store and just hook it up inline near the bleeder valve, then run a hose from the other end of the check into your catch can. There's lots of doohickeys designed to let one person bleed brakes but a check valve is the simplest.
 
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