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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So to start, I have a 1993 f250. It's an automatic with the e4od. 117k miles. Rebuilt trans (first owner had it rebuilt one time several years ago, I don't recall what for). It's bone stock minus true dual straight pipe exhaust.

So the other day when I started my truck, I had the brake light and the abs light come on out of nowhere. The previous drive in the truck before this start I did not have any problems. I thought maybe it was just a fluke weird thing that didn't mean anything as I hadn't had any problems, so I drove to where I had to go. I didn't experience any problems or anything weird/unusual. When I went to leave where I went, when I started it up, the lights had gone out. I thought "cool"! It was just a dumb fluke thing. The ride home I was pulling a trailer. As soon as I got going highway speeds, I noticed my rpms were higher than usual. So going 60 I let off the throttle in hopes it'd lock the converter, it didn't. So I floored it hoping it would downshift, then rehit top gear then lock the converter. It didn't. Then the "off" light for turning overdrive off on the gear shifter started blinking. Luckily I was only 8 miles from home, so I just drove it there.

So, like anyone, I went to Google to do some digging as to what all these lights meant. I got that it could be a host of things. I went and bought an obd1 reader and read my KOEO codes and got a throttle position sensor code. I thought "awesome! Thats gotta be it" since I had read that could cause my symptoms. So I tested the sensor and it tested good (signal going to and from the connector and voltage range). So I figured I'd go and buy a new sensor anyway. I went and bought a new sensor replaced it and it did nothing.. I adjusted it within the 1.2v and 4.5v parameters and it did nothing. I checked the codes again and still got a tps code even though it was a new sensor.

I read that vss could be the cause of my symptoms as well. I don't have any other vss symptoms though (speedo works fine, it isn't jumpy or faulty, and i dont have cruise so that's not a factor). Do vss's either work or not? Can a vss work for one aspect of its job but not work for the other? Or do they break and everything it's responsible for breaks?

My master cylinder is full, it isn't a low fluid issue. There is nothing weird or off with the brakes. It brakes and stops without issue as it always has.

I don't have any led bulbs to goof things up. I also do not have a 3rd brake light (which I have read being the culprit on others), mine just has a cargo light.

My brake light bulbs are functional (no broken filaments) and the sockets appear fine as well. I will note on this topic though, that I have fast blink on both side blinkers, but they have been blinking fast for over a year, so I don't think it's related.

I checked all related fuses, and none of them are blown. I checked every fuse for the heck of it too, and I didn't have any fuses blown at all.

Also, I read disconnecting the batteries and letting it sit a while would reset the computer. So I did that and it stopped the "od off" light blinking. But the brake and abs lights remained.

Could I simply have a faulty torque converter and those lights are letting me know that? Is an e4od designed to give brake related lights when the torque converter is messed up?

I'm super at a loss here.. I'm not sure what else to do or check. Any and all help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
 

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The first thing to check for both lights on at the same time is the fluid level circuit. If the level is good, make sure the float is up. If so, make sure the switch is NOT closed. Simply unplugging it with the key in RUN is a valid test. If both lights go off, the switch is the problem.

(click this text)
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The first thing to check for both lights on at the same time is the fluid level circuit. If the level is good, make sure the float is up. If so, make sure the switch is NOT closed. Simply unplugging it with the key in RUN is a valid test. If both lights go off, the switch is the problem.

(click this text)
I unplugged it and just the brake light went off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The first thing to check for both lights on at the same time is the fluid level circuit. If the level is good, make sure the float is up. If so, make sure the switch is NOT closed. Simply unplugging it with the key in RUN is a valid test. If both lights go off, the switch is the problem.

(click this text)
The float is not stuck by the way either.

So I checked the wiring with a volt meter for continuity. There are three wires. Do you know which wire is what?

Left wire is black, middle wire is green with yellow stripe, and right wire looks light pinkish (maybe faded white) with a green stripe. When I probe the middle and right wires together, my meter beeps. This is with the key off.

Is there a test I should do and if so what wires should I be probing and what position should the key be in?
 

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First off, what codes did you get?

Second, when you ran the key on engine off test did you hold the accelerator on the floor while the test was running? If you didn't, you will get a TPS code. It doesn't mean the TPS is bad, it means you didn't run the test correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
First off, what codes did you get?

Second, when you ran the key on engine off test did you hold the accelerator on the floor while the test was running? If you didn't, you will get a TPS code. It doesn't mean the TPS is bad, it means you didn't run the test correctly.
Ahhh thats crazy. The first time I ran the test, I did not. The second time I did it (after reading the instructions) I did. So I wonder if the trouble code was stored in there the second time I did it cause I did it wrong the first time? That explains why my tps tested good.
 

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I unplugged it and just the brake light went off.
The reed switch is stuck closed.

(click this text)
Do you know which wire is what?
Did you look at the pic I linked?
When I probe the middle and right wires together, my meter beeps.
Without knowing exactly where each probe is, and the meter's setting, and the meter brand/MN, that doesn't tell me anything.
Is there a test I should do...?
Read the ABS codes:

(click this text)
 

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Find your ABS sensor on the rear axle. I am not sure on your year but on a 2000 it's mounted on the driver's side of the third member. Over 21 years, I have had to replace it twice and the symptoms were inline with what you are reporting.
 

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So to start, I have a 1993 f250. It's an automatic with the e4od. 117k miles. Rebuilt trans (first owner had it rebuilt one time several years ago, I don't recall what for). It's bone stock minus true dual straight pipe exhaust.

So the other day when I started my truck, I had the brake light and the abs light come on out of nowhere. The previous drive in the truck before this start I did not have any problems. I thought maybe it was just a fluke weird thing that didn't mean anything as I hadn't had any problems, so I drove to where I had to go. I didn't experience any problems or anything weird/unusual. When I went to leave where I went, when I started it up, the lights had gone out. I thought "cool"! It was just a dumb fluke thing. The ride home I was pulling a trailer. As soon as I got going highway speeds, I noticed my rpms were higher than usual. So going 60 I let off the throttle in hopes it'd lock the converter, it didn't. So I floored it hoping it would downshift, then rehit top gear then lock the converter. It didn't. Then the "off" light for turning overdrive off on the gear shifter started blinking. Luckily I was only 8 miles from home, so I just drove it there.

So, like anyone, I went to Google to do some digging as to what all these lights meant. I got that it could be a host of things. I went and bought an obd1 reader and read my KOEO codes and got a throttle position sensor code. I thought "awesome! Thats gotta be it" since I had read that could cause my symptoms. So I tested the sensor and it tested good (signal going to and from the connector and voltage range). So I figured I'd go and buy a new sensor anyway. I went and bought a new sensor replaced it and it did nothing.. I adjusted it within the 1.2v and 4.5v parameters and it did nothing. I checked the codes again and still got a tps code even though it was a new sensor.

I read that vss could be the cause of my symptoms as well. I don't have any other vss symptoms though (speedo works fine, it isn't jumpy or faulty, and i dont have cruise so that's not a factor). Do vss's either work or not? Can a vss work for one aspect of its job but not work for the other? Or do they break and everything it's responsible for breaks?

My master cylinder is full, it isn't a low fluid issue. There is nothing weird or off with the brakes. It brakes and stops without issue as it always has.

I don't have any led bulbs to goof things up. I also do not have a 3rd brake light (which I have read being the culprit on others), mine just has a cargo light.

My brake light bulbs are functional (no broken filaments) and the sockets appear fine as well. I will note on this topic though, that I have fast blink on both side blinkers, but they have been blinking fast for over a year, so I don't think it's related.

I checked all related fuses, and none of them are blown. I checked every fuse for the heck of it too, and I didn't have any fuses blown at all.

Also, I read disconnecting the batteries and letting it sit a while would reset the computer. So I did that and it stopped the "od off" light blinking. But the brake and abs lights remained.

Could I simply have a faulty torque converter and those lights are letting me know that? Is an e4od designed to give brake related lights when the torque converter is messed up?

I'm super at a loss here.. I'm not sure what else to do or check. Any and all help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
Just reading .....U say We can Use a Code Reader on Out older idiot light flashing 1993 Ford ? I have same Motor n Trans in my E350 ..well I think. Its a 7.3 idi with same Trans as U described. I didn't think there is a Throttle positioning sensor because of Gas pedal cable straight to injection pump ...boy I wish this was as Accessible as a Truck ......Anyway I have had the Flashing Red OD light on Trans and a Trans shop said like yours a Throttle Positioning Sensor ...if So where is it located. I have had and serviced this truck and learned return lines ..glow plug relays and Injector seals all fixed by me .....I do have an Occasional Sticky Brake Pedal that worries me ? Anyway Trans has a Banks Shift Module and hits 2nd for towing. I been drivin it like this for 4 1/2 years like this with Trans light flashin....I don't tow but this Van has had a Banks Sidewinder Package for OG owner lake towing boat im sure ...got it with 180.000 now I have 240.00 on it. ....Any help appreciated...can I buy a Code Reader for this model ? And sticky Brakes ? Air pump for vacuum been replaced before
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The reed switch is stuck closed.

(click this text)
Did you look at the pic I linked?Without knowing exactly where each probe is, and the meter's setting, and the meter brand/MN, that doesn't tell me anything.Read the ABS codes:

(click this text)
Thanks for those bits of information man.

So I replaced the master cylinder, which I assume did fix the issue because the brake light and the abs light went out. I disconnected both batteries for about two hours, which I thought reset the computer or whatever it is. I took it for a test drive and still no converter lockup.... about 3 minutes into the drive, the "off" light on the gear selector started blinking again. Is there a trouble code or something stored in the transmission that needs to be reset or something? Beyond what unhooking the batteries for a while will do?
 

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Is there a trouble code or something stored in the transmission that needs to be reset or something? Beyond what unhooking the batteries for a while will do?
Yes, there is one or more codes stored in the computer. You already reset them by disconnecting the battery. Since the light flashed again you haven't fixed the problem that causes the code to set.

You need to know what codes are set, not just clear them. You can buy a code reader, or you can do it free with this: www.troublecodes.net/ford
 

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I disconnected both batteries for about two hours...
It only takes ~3min, but that's NOT the right way to clear fault codes.
...the "off" light on the gear selector started blinking again. Is there a trouble code or something stored in the transmission...?
No, the engine/trans codes are stored in the EEC. This page explains everything about reading & clearing those codes. It only takes a jumper wire (paperclip).
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
It only takes ~3min, but that's NOT the right way to clear fault codes.No, the engine/trans codes are stored in the EEC. This page explains everything about reading & clearing those codes. It only takes a jumper wire (paperclip).
So I did a obd1 test on it last night (after fixing the brake lights on problems and getting limp mode on the test drive..) and got code 62, which is something like "transmission 4/3 circuit malfunction" or something close to that. So I did some more digging and learned this code is very broad and unreliable. Alot of people said unplugging and cleaning the connectors of both ends of where the connection goes into the transmission will solve that code. So I did the whole disconnect battery thing, which did get the truck out of limp mode and got the off light to stop flashing. Then I cleaned the connections and took it on a test drive and still no converter lockup.. BUT I did not get a flashing off light this time either.

So to sum it up, all lights are off, the truck isn't in limp mode (which I assume means no faults were found) and still no converter lockup.

Is there some way to tell if it is simply a bad torque converter? Other than jacked up wiring somewhere, there isn't anything else it could be from what I've gathered.

I'd hate to replace the torque converter and still have the same issue..
 

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Code 62 does not mean transmission 4/3 circuit malfunction. It means that the converter is not locked when the PCM commands it to be locked.

If that is the only code you have it points to a mechanical problem, not an electrical problem. It could be a bad converter, a stuck torque converter clutch control valve (this valve is located in the pump body,) or a bad seal on the input shaft.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Code 62 does not mean transmission 4/3 circuit malfunction. It means that the converter is not locked when the PCM commands it to be locked.

If that is the only code you have it points to a mechanical problem, not an electrical problem. It could be a bad converter, a stuck torque converter clutch control valve (this valve is located in the pump body,) or a bad seal on the input shaft.
Is there a way to test and diagnose the solenoid? I assume when you said control valve you meant the solenoid?
 

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No, the solenoid is the solenoid. The control valve is located inside the pump body and is not the solenoid.

The best way to test the solenoid is to see if any codes set that point to the solenoid. Other than that, you could put 12 volts across it and listen for the armature to move.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
No, the solenoid is the solenoid. The control valve is located inside the pump body and is not the solenoid.

The best way to test the solenoid is to see if any codes set that point to the solenoid. Other than that, you could put 12 volts across it and listen for the armature to move.
So it just occurred to me to mention this! My truck for the last three years leaks trans fluid out of that tube that comes off of the bottom of it only during the summer months. I assume it leaks when it reaches a certain temperature that is only achievable with a certain ambient air temperature. Someone told me it needs a bigger trans cooler, someone else told me it needed a seal (I don't remember what seal), and someone else told me to clean a vent tube (not even sure if that exists). Being cheap and lazy, I never did anything, I just stopped using it on days that were above 80 degrees. I don't know why, but I decided that was a good number haha. When it would leak, it would leak quite a bit. There would be long trails (hundreds of feet long) leading to the point where I stopped, where it would then leave a puddle. Id always just add fluid to compensate what was lost, which was never more than 3 quarts (that I can recall).

So you mentioned an input shaft seal, could this be the same seal that the above person stated would be causing my leak from that tube? If so, could this seal finally have broken enough to be causing the no lockup situation?
 
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