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Brake and ABS light on, no converter lockup

5K views 39 replies 5 participants last post by  Mark Kovalsky 
First off, what codes did you get?

Second, when you ran the key on engine off test did you hold the accelerator on the floor while the test was running? If you didn't, you will get a TPS code. It doesn't mean the TPS is bad, it means you didn't run the test correctly.
 
Is there a trouble code or something stored in the transmission that needs to be reset or something? Beyond what unhooking the batteries for a while will do?
Yes, there is one or more codes stored in the computer. You already reset them by disconnecting the battery. Since the light flashed again you haven't fixed the problem that causes the code to set.

You need to know what codes are set, not just clear them. You can buy a code reader, or you can do it free with this: www.troublecodes.net/ford
 
Code 62 does not mean transmission 4/3 circuit malfunction. It means that the converter is not locked when the PCM commands it to be locked.

If that is the only code you have it points to a mechanical problem, not an electrical problem. It could be a bad converter, a stuck torque converter clutch control valve (this valve is located in the pump body,) or a bad seal on the input shaft.
 
No, the solenoid is the solenoid. The control valve is located inside the pump body and is not the solenoid.

The best way to test the solenoid is to see if any codes set that point to the solenoid. Other than that, you could put 12 volts across it and listen for the armature to move.
 
The torque converter hub seal is the seal that is causing the fluid to come out of the transmission. It won't cause no lockup. The seals that can prevent lockup are on the input shaft inside of the torque converter. All of those seals require the trans to come out and the torque converter removed from the transmission to replace.
 
No, the valve is in the pump body, not in the torque converter.
 
That wire should be grounded when the PCM wants the converter applied. It's feeding power through the solenoid to power your light. Instead of putting the other lead from the light to ground, attach it to power.
 
The small shaft can come out. There should be seals in there, too.
 
Anyway, is there anything I can do to test to see if it's the torque converter itself?
Look at the front face of the converter, the end that faces the engine. Is it blued? If so, it's been slipping and needs to be replaced. Any further checking involves cutting the converter open.

Also, does anything inside here look funky? I read posts before where a guy said the input shaft seal was completely gone. I don't know where that seal should be, so from the pictures can you tell if it's there or not?
Nothing in the photos looks bad. There are seals on the small shaft that can't be seen with the shaft in place.

Also, there is a smaller shaft that slides in and out of the bigger shaft freely. Should there be a seal between those two? I'm able to pull the smaller shaft out completely. Is that supposed to be like that?
Yes, there are seals on the smaller shaft. And yes, it should pull out like that.
 
The seals on the shaft, where are they? I didn't see anything inside the bore the shaft slides through. I also don't see anywhere on the shaft a seal would sit?

Does the input shaft seal here look alright?
View attachment 160495
That is the torque converter hub seal. It has nothing to do with lockup. I can't see the sealing end in this photo, but if it were bad the converter would still lock, but it would leak fluid all over the ground.


Is whatever these rings are supposed to have those slits in them?
View attachment 160496
Yes, they should have the slits. That is how you get the seals on the shaft. These are the seals that make the lockup work.
All three valves move freely without any sticky feeling to them. The circled valves spring is much less stiff than the other two. Is that normal? It still has spring pressure for sure though, it isn't loose at all, just less tension.
View attachment 160499
I don't have a diagram, nor a good enough memory to remember which valve is which. I haven't been inside an E4OD in this century.

These chunks of rust (at least I believe it's rust. Could be something else, but they're hard) we're sitting in that cavity inside the pump. No idea where they're from, but could that be a problem?
Probably not.
Also lastly, one of the valves (I don't remember which one, but it wasn't the smaller valve in the middle) had a small piece of rust in the bottom that wouldn't allow the metal piece of the valve touch down all the way to wear it comes in contact with the pump. It was a very slender peice, so it was probly like 1/100th of an inch from going down all the way.
That could have had the valve stuck before you took the pump out. If it was the right valve it might have been the problem.

The problem could also be a failed torque converter. The only way to know if the converter had an internal failure is to cut it open.
 
The rings that you asked about the slits are the input shaft seals.
 
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