Brake line attachment leak

12406 Views 8 Replies 5 Participants Last post by FMTRVT, Dec 31, 2008

DonWarkentin

Discussion Starter · Dec 23, 2008

After installing a new rear brake caliper on my 2001 drw f350, there is a brake fluid leak where the brake line is attached to the caliper. Was I supposed to use some kind of sealant in there to seal it? Or is the surface of the new caliper defective where the brake line is attached? Or is there a piece of dirt or sand in there? Any ideas? I don't think that there is a little gasket or seal that goes in there.

Thanks.

2001 F350 XLT 4X4 crew cab, dual rear wheels, long bed, black, 7.3l turbo diesel, automatic transmission, 4.10, shift on the fly, running boards, sliding rear window, 38 gal fuel tank, Odyssey extreme 65-PC1750T batteries, Michelin LTX-MS2 rear tires, Sumitomo Encounter front tires, Shell Rotella Ultra elc, 11,500 gvwr, 20,000 gcwr, 7500 gvw, completely stock, 114,000 miles when purchased, now has 250,000 miles, repairs so far: two starters, batteries, cps, brakes, tires, alternator, ball joints, locking hub, wheel hub, AC compressor, serpentine belt, power steering pump, driver's side window, ignition switch, o-ring, Spectra premium radiator, water pump, fan clutch, fan blades, thermostat, thermostat housing, tensioner. Stolen twice so far, but recovered both times with major damage.

2005 Nomad Rampage toyhauler made by Skyline. 11,500lb gvwr.

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FMTRVT

· #3 · Dec 23, 2008

There should be two copper washers that go on each side of the banjo block. The sequence should be bango bolt hex head, copper washer, hose block, copper washer, and finally caliper body. Sometimes the aftermarket calipers come with washers in the box, and other times not. The old ones can be used if they are heated up cherry red then allowed to cool down, softening them so then can be crushed again. Otherwise they are too work hardened and you have to overtorque the bolt to seal them.

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FMTRVT

· #6 · Dec 31, 2008

Glad we could help and good call on looking at the other side!

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FMTRVT

· #9 · Dec 31, 2008

Ahh, but did you torque the banjo bolt to the stated value or tighten it more? I've watched a guy shear off a banjo bolt just snugging it up a little more to get the washers to seal. It was a "I warned you, I told you" moment.

I've worked with every vehicle manufacturers foundation brake supplier and most of the manufacturers in an engineering capacity. The standard is one use of the copper washers. Why? Because when you crush them they work harden and during a second use the ductility will not be there.

:soapbox:

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