[swh22]

I have my rear, driver's side wheel and drum pulled off to check my brakes (failed inspection, no braking from that wheel). The entire brake assembly is covered in grease, which certianly explains the braking problem. But what is causing this, a broken seal to the axle? Anything I can replace or just clean it all up and forget about it?

Thanks,
Steve

 

[gregrob]

[ QUOTE ]
I have my rear, driver's side wheel and drum pulled off to check my brakes (failed inspection, no braking from that wheel). The entire brake assembly is covered in grease, which certianly explains the braking problem. But what is causing this, a broken seal to the axle? Anything I can replace or just clean it all up and forget about it?

Thanks,
Steve

[/ QUOTE ]

Wheel seal, and it's not gonna fix itself. You'll have to get down to it and yank it out and fit a new one.

Shouldn't be too tough. Is there grease all over the inside of the tire?

 

[swh22]

[ QUOTE ]
Wheel seal, and it's not gonna fix itself

[/ QUOTE ]

dang, I guess I should replace it with one that will take care of itself /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif Thanks for the quick answer. Guess it's off to Autozone. Any tips on what to do or what not to do would be great /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

oh yeah, and no grease on the tire.

Thanks,
Steve

 

[gregrob]

I can't think of any other place it would come from, if you're sure it's grease. My trucks that have leaked usually stain the inside of the tire on the offending side.

That's why I would get to the seal first, should be evident if it's been leaking.

Only other recom is to check the level of your diff fluid, could be low if it's been leaking.

Good luck. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[swh22]

Yeah it's definitely grease. I don't want to dive in too far without any replacement parts at hand because I don't have another vehicle to get me to the parts store. Thanks again for the help /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smokin.gif

 

[gregrob]

[ QUOTE ]
Yeah it's definitely grease. I don't want to dive in too far without any replacement parts at hand because I don't have another vehicle to get me to the parts store. Thanks again for the help /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smokin.gif

[/ QUOTE ]

Gotcha, no problem.

 

[MarkEkberg]

Make sure you replace the brakes also. They will never work right again after they have been contaminated with lube.

 

[BlueMule]

[ QUOTE ]
Make sure you replace the brakes also. They will never work right again after they have been contaminated with lube.

[/ QUOTE ]

Hhmmmm......I thought thats what BRAKE-KLEEN was for..... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif

 

[dreamachinef250]

Rodney,

Thanks for the info. on Brake Kleen,I printed out the info. on it.

See'ya,

Bill.

 

[milner351]

After you clean everything up with brake cleaner, replace your shoes, making sure you get the front shoe and rear shoe properly placed (use the other side as a pattern if need be)

Be carefull when putting the axle back through the new seal, as I recall those seals are about $25 each.

It's time to drain and refill your rear axle with lube, after you do so, jack up one side of the axle to allow lube to travel down the axle tube to the outboard bearing. Then jack up the other side to do the same, then refill the axle to the bottom of the fill plug.

Failure to do this may result in running the bearing dry for sometime, and can KILL The bearing and seal causing you to have to replace the bearing and seal.... been there, done that.

 

[Birken Vogt]

[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
Make sure you replace the brakes also. They will never work right again after they have been contaminated with lube.

[/ QUOTE ]

Hhmmmm......I thought thats what BRAKE-KLEEN was for..... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif

[/ QUOTE ]

Brake cleaner sometimes works in a pinch but a brake that has been contaminated with lube will never really be the same. Sometimes it will grab and chatter in addition to not working right. Even the drum itself can get too contaminated to work right any more.

Birken

 

[94_turbo]

im with bluemule--dont liek to clean them--but have--and have never had a problem--just tell the cheap owners i aint responsible--and they sign the work order--and i aint calling you cheap--just some of the people ive had to deal with---

 

[swh22]

Thanks guys. I did brake-clean it but I agree that it won't ever be the same so I will probably replace them. I could smell burnt grease when I got out of the truck and walked past that tire today, so at least it's trying to work now /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Milner,
For the axle lube, are you talking about diff fluid or grease? I assumed the bearing would be packed with grease (I did one of my front axle u-joints not too long ago, so that's my experience here) and thought maybe some of the axle tube would have grease. But thought that the diff fluid would be basically sealed in the housing, no? If that's the case, I don't see how the grease will "flow" when I jack up the axle, so I think I am missing something. Thanks for the tips.

Steve

 

[JoshR]

You need to pack the bearings with grease (I used Amsoil full synthetic blue grease) prior to reinstallation of axles. If I remember correctly, I used gasket adhesive (the black permatex stuff with a brush in the cap) on the outside of the new Scotseals, and greased the inside of them after knocking them into place, so the axles would slide smoothly into place. All this on advice of a (damn good pro mechanic) friend. Also did the 'tilt to one side then the other' trick, with wheels off but drums secured with two nuts, after filling the pig with Amsoil syn axle lube. I had the same problem, blown seals>>>big mess>>>no rear brakes. Had to replace everything outboard of the backing plates (drums, shoes, hardware, e-brake cables, wheel cylinders, etc). Spent more money than desired (what else is new), and more time too, but WOW what a difference in how she stops. One can really tell when the rears are working right; no nose dive at all unless you stand on 'em.

Josh

 

[Birken Vogt]

No, don't pack the bearings, just pour some oil on them before installing the hub. They are designed to be oil lubricated so you just do the jack one side then the other trick to distribute the oil to the hubs, then make sure the diff is still full.

Birken

 

[BillyP]

I also could be a wheel cylinder leaking. I had one go out on my Mustang and when I pulled it, when the brake fluid combined with the brake shoes, it made a grey goo that looked like grease, you might want to check that out.

 

[swh22]

Thanks for all the help guys. I finished the job tonight, replaced the seal, which was definitely busted, cleaned up the huge mess, replaced the pads, and all seems to be good. Going to hit the inspection station tomorrow so I guess I'll find out for sure /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

One more question though, I managed to pull the e-brake cable end out of its lever. How in the heck do you get that back in, I couldn't even come close to compressing the spring enough to hook it back up. Must be able to loosen it or adjust it somewhere, right?

Thanks,
Steve