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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I've read many of the posts here on rotor recommendations but most of them of pre-2010.
No problem with that but just wondering if any consensus has evolved since then on the best rotor for heavy loads/towing?
From the old posts I see mentioned ART, Powerslot, Performance Friction, Motorcraft, among others.
Has one or another proved better? Or have there been problems with any?
Especially would like to hear about applications with heavy loads and/or towing.
Thanks.
 

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I did the Performance Friction [2 pc] floating rotors [$600] many years ago, and was not pleased with them...

Ended up with NAPA "Ultra Premium" front rotors at a reasonable price, and have been very happy with them...
Did the MotorCraft on the back....everything fine...
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I should add I drive essentially 100% of the time with a 5000 lb Lance camper in the back. I'm always pushing the max gross weight at which the F350 is rated (and maybe a skoosh over). Also very occasionally may tow a lightweight (~1500lb) trailer that has no brakes.
 

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I did Motorcraft (OE design- on rockauto) rotors and pads all the way around earlier in the year. I've been very pleased with them. I towed 14-16k and never had problems(with trailer brakes). I've inspected them and they look great. I really could tell the difference between the parts store brand that were on it previously.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks Graupp. Are you typically carrying a heavy load?
 

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Ive heard the drilled and slotted rotors have a better way to release heat which helps with warping. Maybe look into a drilled slotted kit.
 

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Ive heard the drilled and slotted rotors have a better way to release heat which helps with warping. Maybe look into a drilled slotted kit.
It does and when you do that make sure that you upgrade your brake pads too. Many times these will stop better but also add more brake dust
 

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Ive heard the drilled and slotted rotors have a better way to release heat which helps with warping. Maybe look into a drilled slotted kit.
Drilled and slotted rotors actually reduce the friction area, so everything else being equal (same pads, etc.) they can't stop better than solid rotors. They MAY cool better, but the differences in section mass may actually contribute to differential temperatures across the rotor. From that aspect, a completely solid rotor would probably be best.

As for warping, you guys need to hunt down FMTRVT's treatise here on how pulsating brakes are not caused by warped rotors but hard spots caused by differential heating. Those hard spots don't wear, so become high spots that the caliper clamps on harder when brakes are applied.

As far as rotor recommendations. I'd buy the highest quality OE style rotors. As far as pads, I just replaced my front pads at 195k miles with Motorcraft SuperDuty pads. They're working well for me, but I don't tow or haul very heavy. I do carry a camper that puts me close to max GVW.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks
 

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Drilled and slotted rotors actually reduce the friction area, so everything else being equal (same pads, etc.) they can't stop better than solid rotors. They MAY cool better, but the differences in section mass may actually contribute to differential temperatures across the rotor. From that aspect, a completely solid rotor would probably be best.

As for warping, you guys need to hunt down FMTRVT's treatise here on how pulsating brakes are not caused by warped rotors but hard spots caused by differential heating. Those hard spots don't wear, so become high spots that the caliper clamps on harder when brakes are applied.

As far as rotor recommendations. I'd buy the highest quality OE style rotors. As far as pads, I just replaced my front pads at 195k miles with Motorcraft SuperDuty pads. They're working well for me, but I don't tow or haul very heavy. I do carry a camper that puts me close to max GVW.
Well said. I road race a 97 Camaro. I run blank rotors. Slotted or drilled rotors are for looks. They are actually prone to cracking.
 
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