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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello,

All four wheels; new rotors, calipers, and pads.

Bled, bled and BLED the system. The pedal sinks to the floor.

Changed the ABS control system and BLED it again. The F%&$(*@ pedal still sinks to the floor

All the fuses are good

What are your thoughts on this?

Thank you
 

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You still have air in the lines. You need to bleed the system like you have been doing then let the truck sit for a couple hours than do it again. Pumping the peddle will add air to the fluid and you need to let the air escape the fluid by letting it sit. I use a power bleeder so I don't have this problem.
This is what I have. I do it once and I can drive it right away.
https://www.motiveproducts.com/collections/domestic-bleeder-kits
 

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I made the poor man's version of the power bleeder, and it worked great. Buy a small sprayer. [ame]https://www.amazon.com/Chapin-International-20541-Adjustable-Translucent/dp/B07KMJ8JLK/ref=sr_1_4?hvadid=3527191554&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvqmt=e&keywords=sprayer&qid=1573969405&sr=8-4[/ame]

Remove the nozzle, and attach a length of tubing. To the other end of the tubing, attach a lid (that you can buy at the local auto parts store) to the master brake cylinder. You will use a fitting with a nut to attach the hose to the lid. You have to drill a hole through the center of the lid to put the fitting through. [ame]https://www.amazon.com/Alphacool-Barbed-Fitting-Ring-Fatboy/dp/B004X2XCOM/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=fitting&qid=1573969780&rnid=2470954011&sr=8-5[/ame]

Put brake fluid into the sprayer.

Now you can lie underneath the truck next to each wheel and apply pressurized brake fluid while you loosen and bleed the brakes and retighten. The length of tubing should be long enough that you can reach from the brake master cylinder to the rear wheels.

After you have done that, and the brakes are working better, you can finish getting the air out by driving slowly down a lonely road and stomping on the brakes multiple times to work out the rest of the air bubbles.
 

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How are you bleeding them?
DENNY
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I am bleeding them the old school way and I have a hand pump that works at the caliper.
 

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I thought the old school method was to enlist the help of a family member (who would rather be doing something else) to work the brake pedal with their foot while I laid underneath and loosened the bleeder. All the while shouting commands over the sound of the engine.

“No, I said keep the pedal depressed!” 😉
 

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I just replaced all my calipers and rotors. I bought a vacuum pump bleeder from harbor freight and it worked good. I am sure I replaced all the fluid in the system and you don't need a helper.
 

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I just replaced all my calipers and rotors. I bought a vacuum pump bleeder from harbor freight and it worked good. I am sure I replaced all the fluid in the system and you don't need a helper.
Whats that one vacuum called? A mighty vac? Thats what I use these days but I always seem to get air sneaking in around the bleeder threads which creates tiny bubbles that can be seen in the clear tubing. I finally started spraying a quick shot of white lithium which seems to seal the threads long enough to complete the job.
 

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I use a condiment bottle (ketchup/mustard) from Dollar General (1$) and some aquarium air hose. I clip the nozzle just a little bit shorter until I can force the tubing through from the inside, making a seal. I also drill a 3/16 vent hole in the cap. I set up my phone on video and with the size of the bottle I can pump the brakes 40-50 times if I have opened the system, replaced calipers, or lines and have lots of air. If the tubing has no bubbles in it I can review the video footage and see exactly when the last bit of air was vacated. The large size bottle makes it easy to change fluid also.
 

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