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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 3/8 broken bolt thats recessed in the hole just past being flush and to make it worse, the space in that area just doesn't allow my drill a good angle to get at it with a reverse bit.

Welding to it would require someone far above my welding skills...

Anyone have any other tricks or removal secrets?

Thanks
 

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Do what you have to do to get access with a drill. For instance, if it's an inner fender in the way, take a hole saw to it and then cover it with some scrap sheet metal later. Welding inside a 3/8" hole would be a feat indeed!
 

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Left handed drill bit is the best way. Can you get to it with a small punch?
 

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Do you need it?
I broke a bolt on a previous vehicle, exhaust manifold. I was removing to replace a gasket. I put it back together, minus 1 bolt, and it was GOOD TO GO.
 

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drench in pb blast or nut cracker etc the best you can get for a day or 2 to loosen it
then clean it up and jb weld a new bolt to it and see how it does

you should say what bolt though if it holds an alternator on it may go into the water jacket on some vehicles yet on our trucks they dont but things like that may matter too

or drill it and retap the threads even go larger if you do not trust your self
 

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Where is this bolt located?
 

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Broken Bolt Removal...

After using penetrating lube, I have been able to remove several broken bolts using a sharp chizel or center putch by tapping it on the edge turning it slowly until it loosens enough to grab it with a vice grips.

Most bolts in street cars are not ULTRA HARD steel, so if you dont have an easy-out and you CAN get a drill on it, I have been able to drill out the center a bit, hammer an old allen wrench into it, put a small adjustable on the allen wrench, and back it off that way. (Kinda Red-Green but it works - I have proof!)

I have also cut a slot in them and removed with a flat head screw driver but typically the most difficult method...depending on what you have for tools.
 

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Here's what you do.....

Take a lug nut and insert the tapered end in the recessment and fill her full of weld. Before you weld it soak it with pb blaster and then heat the bolt red hot with a torch. The bolt will heat and expand....when it cools it will retract and shrink...therefor making it "looser" and easier to get out! Done this thousands of times.....takes a little work on you first one....but you will be good to go next time.
 

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I have found that it depends on why it broke, as to how you get it out. If you broke it by overtightening it, cutting a slot in it for a screwdriver would probably be the easiest with a dremel tool with a cut-off wheel. A screw extractor would work well too, if you can find a way to get at it. You might even take a shortened welding rod and just stick the rod to the bolt and then remove the rod from the welder's stinger, and use it as a handle.

If it broke off during removal because it's seized in the hole, IMO you only have a couple options, both of which involve removing the item that the bolt holds on. You'll have to either use a torch to heat the area that the bolt screws into and back it out with vice grips or a stud remover, or cut it off and drill it out completely. In my experience if a bolt is seized tight enough that it will round the head off, no screw extractor is going to be able to back it out.
 
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