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All in my sig.
Edge insight for the trans temp, exhaust temp, ECT and EOT
Autometer analog gauges for fuel pressure, oil pressure and boost.
I had all these added to my Edge Insight, smart move or no? I just had it installed. I didn't see the point in getting the extra pillar gauges if I could just have it all in 1 unit.

2003 F350 6.0L

now I guess I just need to work on the 2 codes that popped up, 1 for the turbo and the other for glow plugs
 

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Recommended upgrades when doing cooler/EGR replacement

Hello all,

This is my first post so I hope it works. I'm still learning this computer thing.

I'm getting ready to do the stock oil cooler & Bulletproof EGR cooler replacements in my van which has 68k miles on it. I finished the Restore flush yesterday at 2 am and now I'm getting ready to do the Restore+.
My question is what else should I do while I'm in there that far? I'm looking at Ford upgrades and basically want to keep it stock. I have the "blue spring" for the fuel pressure reg. and EGR valve kit, and Dieselsite coolant filter and plan to do them after the flushes.
The plan is to drive it to Alaska next year and want to feel comfortable about doing so. This will our first retirement excursion.

As a side note, this forum has been the best educational site I have ever explored and thanks in advance to all you smart guys.
 

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Monitor via Edge CTS. It is the best monitor out there in terms of displayed inputs and flexibility in adding non-stock gauges like EGT and fuel pressure. The ergonomics are also very good.

Power on a budget is always a topic of interest. The key is understanding that the budget to improve performance on a 6.0 is going to be considerably larger than that to improve it on say a Mustang. You can go cheap and run a hot tune, etc. with no other mods and it will be fast, until it breaks. IMO a good combination is one that is reliable, long lived, and balanced. The next question is how far do you want to take it? For $5,000 you can have a truck that will be drop dead reliable and turn low 14s, high 13s in the 1/4, making maybe 425HP. The next level is going to cost you another $5.5k and will take you to the edge of the 12s in the 1/4, making 500+HP. Beyond that its going to start being cubic dollars time because you're talking about big injectors, likely twin turbos (unless you like day long spool times), and you'll start to get into needing to address the rods, trans, possibly the HPO system, etc. There are guys out there running mid 10s in these trucks, but they have enough money to buy a turbo Porsche wrapped up in them.
 

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What if you just want drop dead reliable? Dragging 10k 5th wheel you are limited to 65 mph anyway because of the trailer tires so rapid acceleration isn't an issue. Pulling half the loaded weight shouldn't strain the 6.0l too much. Proper tire inflation will do more for fuel mileage than any tune. In reading it seems Ford coolant is the major cause for sludge buildup in the EGR which leads to failure. If you replace the coolant with a better one do you still need an extra coolant filter? Oil cooler location and clogging seem to be the second major problem (along with using the wrong filters) so there doesn't seem to be any easy way around that. Would monitoring the coolant temp, oil temp and pressure, fuel pressure and EGT take care of most of the known problems? Most of the head bolt problems seem to be either EGR failure or misuse of the engine (tuner set to wrong tune for use or trying to drag 30k trailers). I like to follow the KISS (keep it simple stupid) methodology and introducing after market items adds new variables to the equation. Thoughts?
 

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If you want it reliable you need to bulletproof it, which means installing studs, etc. Certainly EGR cooler failure, and too much timing can cause a HG failure, but those are not the only reasons the fail. The bottom line is that the 6.0 has 10 head bolts per side. Every engine that ever had only 10 bolts per side had HG issues when forced induction was added. Small block Fords, LS1 Chevies, etc. Those were gas engines that produce a fraction of the cylinder pressure generated in a Diesel due to the need to create compression ignition. It might take until 200k or more for the HGs to fail, but eventually they will all fail. The only real solution is to put a better clamp load on the heads through the use of studs.

Yes, the coolant is an issue, but just changing it is not enough. Part of the issue is the coolant oxidizing and precipitating out silicates. The other half is casting sand that breaks loose over time. That's just intrinsic to the design due to the complexity of the castings in the 6.0. IH wanted a coolant filter on the 6.0 from the factory. Ford deleted it to save a dollar per unit.

I agree that KISS works best. The aftermarket parts are designed to fix known deficiencies with the engine, and some of the parts are actually being produced and sold by Ford to cure known issues. I agree that throwing a bunch of hot rod parts at an engine is not a recipe for reliability, no one would say that. Bulletproofing is what makes the engine reliable. If you choose to seek more power after bulletproofing you can still have a very reliable engine so long as you don't push it too far.
 

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Nice write-up. More sig material! You're on a roll hear lately. :lol::lol:

BTW, I like the revised title of the EGR delete write-up. Has a nice ring to it. :thup:

EDIT: Crap! Just noticed you already added it to your sig. Need to work on the title, though. :jester:


These forum's are a good thing. I just wish we could keep the sales people off here. I have been a diesel mechanic for 45 years I personally 7 6.0 diesel trucks and if bought all the stuff on here, I would have more invested then a bran new truck. Service your truck add additives like you should and your truck will run great for a long time. My 04 ford has over 600000 miles on it never once did I add anything after market. Happy Driving all
 
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