[novimustang]

I am currently in the process of installing my Bullet Proof EGR / Oil Cooler upgrade. I figured I'd start a thread with pics and install notes (that I can think of) that may help some people who are considering doing the swap themselves, whether with stock or Bullet Proof components.

So far, I have completed the tear-down phase and I must say I am pleasantly surprised with my project. I wouldn't use the word "easy," but at the same time, this isn't rocket science.

To do this project, you will need:

1. Patience.
2. A clean, well-lit, organized work area.
3. PB Blaster. You might need it, you might not, but you should have some regardless.
4. A good set of tools. (no special tools required, but having a good selection and different options will help make certain situations a bit easier)
5. Some form of a top-side creeper. (whether store-bought, custom made, improvised or whatever, you will DEFINITELY need to be gettin your top-side creep on, for sure!) (any further usage of the phrase "get your top-side creep on" or any modified usage thereof, is hereby a direct violation of novimustang's personal awesomeness and is subject to a royalty fee of $5 per violation! :lol: )
6. Patience. Yeah that's twice. This isn't a project you want to rush on. If you're a flat-rater, good for you, but otherwise just take your time and think about what you are doing. Educate yourself as much as possible. Learn about your truck and what exactly you are doing. Take the time to become familiar with it so you will not only understand more about it now, but also become more confident in performing service on it in the future.

Okay, so after deciding to drop some serious cash on the complete Bullet Proof kit (hey, we all love our trucks right?) I received this.

I placed my order on a Sunday, it shipped out Monday, and I received it Friday. (I live in the Cincinnati area, FWIW) ***NOTE*** Unbeknownst to me, Bullet Proof shipped this FedEx DIRECT SIGNATURE REQUIRED. So bear in mind that someone will literally, physically have to be there to sign for it. I know it sucks, but luckily my brother was able to spend the day at my house and play me for a day. So plan ahead so you aren't caught off-guard and unable to receive your goodies.

Anyway, for those wondering "what's in the box?", wonder no more.

Pretty fancy huh? I was very impressed by the nicely bound installation manual printed on high quality paper. A pre-paid shipping label is also included to return your stock EGR Cooler and get your $100 core charge back.

Underneath the boring paper stuff, is the cool shiny stuff.

Alright, that's all I have time for right now. I will continue to update this thread with more pics and install notes.

 

[ex mounty]

Did you spring for the "Cold weather package" add-on?
Highly recommended in your neck of the woods.

 

[novimustang]

No I didn't. The Bullet Proof site doesn't clearly define what "extreme cold conditions" are, but to me "extreme" is like... Alaska. Cincinnati doesn't really get that cold. We might get a few days in the teens, but nothing I'd call extreme. Not $350 worth of extreme anyway.

 

[novimustang]

The first thing I did before starting my project was clean out my garage. Next, I did some research and printed out some manuals. A lot of manuals. I did pay the $11.99 for the eAutoRepair subscription, but honestly I don't know that it's even necessary. Still it's cheap, and not a bad resource. I also found a few other .pdf manuals on this site by doing some searches.

 

[novimustang]

Here's my top-side creeper. It's adjustable. It can support 10,000 lbs, and it's red.

This thread isn't intended to be a complete step-by-step, but I will try and point out the things that I found to be troublesome or otherwise of interest.

After draining the coolant and oil, the radiator comes out. It's not too bad. A little awkward maybe, but a little fiddling and it'll come right up.
*NOTE* The instructions will say to remove the heater hose. Mine was totally seized in there. Don't worry. All you need to do is gently bend it enough so that the mounting tab will clear the intake manifold when you remove it.

The instructions will tell you to remove the fan, but you don't have to. Just take out the bolts on the fan shroud that go into the intake, cause uh, you're gonna take the intake off and it'd be kinda hard to do that with the shroud attached to it.

 

[Band_Member]

Kewl. great thread you started. look forward to the knowledge you will post.

Thanks for taking the time to photo document and post the procedure. :thumbsup:


.

 

[novimustang]

As you make your way towards removal of the turbo, you will need to loosen your up-pipe bolts. These are on the very back of the exhaust manifolds. This is where patience, good lighting, eye protection (safety first kids!) and PB Blaster come into play. I tried to take some pictures showing what you're looking at to give you an idea. Once you find the right combination of extension, swivel, deep/shallow, etc. you'll be fine here.

The EGR Cooler clamp nut took me a minute to actually physically see, but once I realized exactly where it was, it's easy to get to.

 

[novimustang]

Can any of you eagle-eye members spot anything fishy in this picture?

Yep. Apparently my turbo only needs 2 bolts... I was so expecting to have to drench my turbo bolts in PB Blaster, but they all, er, both came out fairly easily.

I noticed my turbo has a sticker on it that says "Remanufactured," so I take it that it has been replaced at some point before I purchased the truck at about 103k. I plan on cleaning it before it goes back together. Might as well while it's out of the truck.

Once I did get the turbo out (be careful here, it is pretty heavy, especially when you're lying on your stomach), I noticed that all 4 turbo pedestal bolts where totally loose. Like loose-loose. Oh and I did find my 3rd turbo bolt... just hanging out in the valley. Along with another totally random bolt. Quality is Job ... uh... 12? Whatever. I don't guess it's a big deal, but an interesting observation nonetheless. It's reasons like this why it's so much better to take the time and do it yourself!

 

[novimustang]

Removing the injector harness is easy, then I just unplugged the rest of the harness from the PCM and a few other connections on the drivers side and moved the whole harness over to the passenger side to get it out of the way.

The instructions will tell you to remove "THE" bolt and then the oil filter return tube. However, I found that I had to remove that one bolt, and also loosen the other two. Then the tube will twist and come right out.

...and out comes the intake.

Please excuse the crudity of this model, but it serves it's purpose well.

Keep your parts neat and organized! (Everything will get cleaned up before it goes back on)

 

[8534]

nice work thanks for posting.

 

[sdgreen]

Looking forward to seeing this project to completion. Nice job!

 

[novimustang]

Try to be careful as you lift and remove the intake, so you don't knock dirt and debris down into the ports. Same goes for removing the old intake gaskets, lift them slowly and carefully so crud doesn't fall off into the engine. Once you've got the gaskets out, be sure to cover the ports to further prevent any foreign matter from entering the engine.

Once the intake manifold has been removed, removing the oil cooler is as easy as... removing the oil cooler. It'll take quite a few shop rags to soak up all the oil. Remember there is an HPOP filter screen down underneath all that oil, so be aware of that as you clean up the oil. Don't just carelessly swipe rags around down there and end up disrupting the filter and getting crap down there.

Once I had everything out, I plugged up the openings and bolt holes, and carefully went to work with brake cleaner. I used a tooth brush to gently scrub. Here is where I'm at right now, halfway done. I'm not worried about trying to get it all perfectly clean, obviously it's no show queen but I just wanted to get it looking a bit better and ready for the new parts to be installed.

 

[MikeL46]

I'm having a hard time imagining doing this on a van where the engine is completely under the cowl.

Good job so far. Glad you have the patience both to do it and to take photos.

Mike

 

[ex mounty]

novimustang?:stickpoke: You still alive?

 

[noneck]

Might be taking a break...this is really cool to watch unfold.

 

[JDExcursion]

FYI, I just did this whole task myself as well and I got a bit of intel from the Bulletproof techs. Instead of loosening the up-pipe bolts on the exhaust to the turbo, he said just put a jack underneath the CAT and lift it up a bit and it separates it from the turbo. I did it and it worked like a champ! Saves some time and frustration dealing with those pesky bolts.
Glad the turbo bolts worked for you because I had to cut the back bolt off of the turbo. Frustrating nonetheless.

 

[rcgreg]

Hey7 - how come you got a YELLOW fan? Mine is black - is it aftermarket?

 

[JDExcursion]

FYI, the fan shroud doesn't need to be removed to take the intake out. There are two bolts(15mm) that secure the intake manifold to the fan shroud, but it can stay in.

 

[ex mounty]

Instead of loosening the up-pipe bolts on the exhaust to the turbo, he said just put a jack underneath the CAT and lift it up a bit and it separates it from the turbo.

Point of clarification: That pipe you refer to is the down-pipe. The up-pipes connect to the exhaust manifolds and direct the exhaust flow up to the turbo.

 

[novimustang]

novimustang?:stickpoke: You still alive?

I'm here buddy! Sorry for the delay. It's been very frustrating these past few weeks. Not the project, but I work in deliveries and I've been getting home late nearly every day. The truck has been down for 3 or 4 weeks now, yet I've only gotten a few days to actually work on it! :icon_rolleyes:

Anyway, here comes another update...