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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I posted this about 3 years ago when the problem started happening. Never really got any suggestions so thought I would try again. Been so long since I have been here that my trucks info may not even show up.
My 1989 F350 IDI keeps burning out the same gp. Rear on drivers side. Does anyone have an idea as to what would keep causing this? We don't have a Ford dealership here anymore. Closed down last Sept. When they were still here I did ask the diesel mechanics and they said that it could be a crack in the head?? Does that make sense? Thanks for any help or ideas.
 

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What brand GP's are you using ?
 

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Well you are using the right brand OK.

The one that's burning out is #8 cyl. Could it be that #8 is starting to get some cavitation ? Or like the mech. said a cracked head .

Are you keeping the SCA's in the coolant system up to snuff ?

Only my .04 cents worth, corrected for inflation.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yep, I have kept up with the SCAs ever since I bought the truck about 8 years ago. Maybe you are right about cavitation although I hope not. This truck was originally a paramedic unit in an adjoining county. When I bought it, the cab was white with two big orange stripes down the middle. I am not sure how many miles are on this engine. Still runs good as ever did although it has lost some power.
 

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You could pull the #8 GP out and see if you have any coolant/moisture blow out when the engine is cold and has been setting for some time . With the key off, short out the starter relay (large terminals) with a screw drive and, that way you can see if any coolant/moisture comes out, stand back it can come out with force. May have to do this several times, depending where the piston has stopped at last shut down. That might tell if cavitation has started or even a cracked head.
My grandson got soaked when helping me do that to my 90 F350 . LOL
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
OK, I'll do that. I have to add coolant every so often. Maybe a quart or so every 2 to 3 months. This truck has never leaked anything, oil, antifreeze. Kind of a puzzle as to where the coolant was going. I can smell coolant inside the cab at times. Not strong but just a whiff now and then. Was thinking that it was due to bad head gaskets because I can see a little dampness around the front of drivers side head.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks Bill...after I pull #8 and do the test and if coolant comes out, what do you recommend that I do next? Pull that head/both heads?? Just wondering what I should be preparing for. Thanks Alot!
 

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I believe Bill is over stating.
Plan on the next 3 years as being the same as the past 3 years.
Buy 10 GP's, and replace as required.
This similar to planning on a brain replacement, because your memory is slipping. It is a 20 year old truck!
In my humble opinion
 

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I believe Bill is over stating.
Plan on the next 3 years as being the same as the past 3 years.
Buy 10 GP's, and replace as required.
This similar to planning on a brain replacement, because your memory is slipping. It is a 20 year old truck!
In my humble opinion
I don't think I overstated anything, just a procedure to maybe find the problem that he's concerned about.

Brain replacement! Holy Moley, maybe that's what I need. Geez I can't remember tomorrow or was it yesterday. Is it today right now?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Well, not sure I understand all that. BUT...I use this truck in my landscaping business, starting 10th year, and I can't afford for it to be down more than a few days at a time. I really appreciate the help. I will do the test on #8 Bill and see what happens with that. Then hopefully, we will know whats happening. Thanks again.
 

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I can smell coolant inside the cab at times. Not strong but just a whiff now and then.
Check under the floor mat right side... could be a simple heater core leak.

Okay you say it burns up the same GP...... do you replace all of them or just that one.. What brand are you replacing it with........ Autolite.......Champion if either one of them, if so then there is the reason you keep burning it up. I would say get a Beru/Motorcraft ZD9 and replace it with that....then see what happens. Does the tip burn off or distort, change color ??????

I think were thinking too far outside the box here........
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I have checked under the matt at heater core and there is no moisture at all. As I mentioned earlier I always use Beru gps. No, I don't replace all gps when #8 burns out. I just put the meter on it before changing it out to make sure it is the one thats bad. The tip has always been intact and doesn't look distorted to me.
 

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The heater core is easy to replace. Just remove the glove box door and you will see a black panel. Remove those self threading bolts and pull off the cover. There before you is the core. Remove the hoses from inside the motor bay and remember which hoes goes where. Thats about as hard as it gets. I buy only the Ford OEM core because several aftermarket ones I have tried didn't last. The Ford core is far superiour to the others.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
The heater core is easy to replace. Just remove the glove box door and you will see a black panel. Remove those self threading bolts and pull off the cover. There before you is the core. Remove the hoses from inside the motor bay and remember which hoes goes where. Thats about as hard as it gets. I buy only the Ford OEM core because several aftermarket ones I have tried didn't last. The Ford core is far superiour to the others.
Must have misunderstood. There is NO leak at or around the core. I had to replace it a few years back so kinda familiar with it. Thanks
 

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Then you could try a compression test warm engine........on all 8 see if there is a low cylinder......bad head gasket???

If you want to try the TDS cavitation test.........

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