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Buzzing Sound

18K views 18 replies 16 participants last post by  PSDForever  
#1 ·
I have been noticing a buzzing sound as soon as I turn the key on. It sounds like it's coming out from under the dash and only lasts for a second or so. It sort of reminds me of what it sounds like when you have a dead battery and it clicks, just faster. I replaced both batteries, and the altanator is pumping out about 14 Volts. Any help with this would be appreciated.
 
#2 ·
I always thought that humming noise was the fuel pump and the buzzing/clicking noise was the GPR. Or is this a clickclickclickclick that is staccato like firecrackers? I haven't heard that before.
 
#3 ·
Vacuume (how do ya spell that?) pump?
 
#4 ·
Vacuum pump. They all do it. If it's real loud the pump may have a problem. It runs until it builds up vacuum in the holding tank to permit operation of the vacuum hub locking system. Then it shuts down and runs when it needs to build up vacuum again.

Larry /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif
 
#6 ·
I have a 2X2 and I have the same sound. Sounds like it is coming form the dash area on the passanger side. Normally only does it in the morning on the first start up. It does sound like a pump running unitl it gets a prime or something and then goes away.
 
#7 ·
The vacuum pump is for more than just the hubs it also works other things like your your heater controls. Every truck has one.
 
#9 ·
[ QUOTE ]
Vacuume (how do ya spell that?) pump?

[/ QUOTE ]

Vacuum,...

( I learned that on this site)
 
#10 ·
[ QUOTE ]
I have been noticing a buzzing sound as soon as I turn the key on. It sounds like it's coming out from under the dash and only lasts for a second or so. It sort of reminds me of what it sounds like when you have a dead battery and it clicks, just faster. I replaced both batteries, and the altanator is pumping out about 14 Volts. Any help with this would be appreciated.

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I also have this exact sound on the first start up of the day. It is not pump. I am sure it is a relay from under the dash. It will not do it if I charrge the batterries with a trickle charger till I know they are at full charge.
I think it is one of several possibilities. 1. a weak relay that has deraded over time, 2. degraded electrical connections. 3. Alternator with degraded diodes allowing a current draw to lower the charge on the batteries overnight or longer on sitting to a lower level. 4. a combination of the first 3.
I do know that on mine, something is decreasing the charge on the batteries slightly after long periods of sitting, and the buzzing lasts longer depending on that state of charge of the batteries. Once, I started the truck to move it and shut it off and had to restart a couple of minute later and it degraded the charge to get the dreaded clicking -no crank to start - jump time. Replaced batteries shortly after and buzz went away on first key trun for a while, but is back now.
Have not trouble shot this further.
 
#15 ·
I notice when I get in my truck I hear crickets....nevermind I always hear crickets, lived to close to the flight line.
 
#16 ·
I had the same buzz appear this week. Sounded and acts just like the buzz described in this post. Comes on with the key is turned on, lasts a few seconds and sound like it is coming from under the dash. I now believe it is coming from the Injector Driver Module relay (position 32) located in the power dist box under the hood. I say this because I can feel it buzzing when the key is turned on. Remove the relay, turn the key and the buzz is gone.

I swapped relays around and the symptoms didn't change, so it appears the relay is good. Since the buzzing appeared, the truck is slower to start, like the batteries are weak. Once running everything seems fine.

I need to know where to go from here. As a side note, I did have the rear brakes (pads, rotor and calipars)changed last week. I would have done it myself, but I was out of town and my wife was stuck so I went ahead and had her take it to a shop. She swears the buzzing started soon after she picked it up from the shop. Probably unrelated, but the timing is suspect.
 
#18 ·
I'm having the same problem in my 2002 F250. Check out the post below. Its worth a shot.
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I bought an '04 6.0L a few weeks ago, and while I had the dealer fix a few minor problems before signing the papers, they couldn't (or were too lazy to) diagnose what was causing the turn-signal / brake relay under the middle of the dash to randomly click or buzz. I know several on this board have had a similar problem with mixed results having their dealer try to fix the problem, so I figured I'd post what fixed my problem.

The relay that's clicking is mounted to a small harness that can be accessed by removing the lower-center dash panel that surrounds the cup-holders, houses the infamous hook, and has the little cubby hole on the driver side. The relay is inside of a little black box that's just behind and under the cubby hole. After removing the cover and the relay and fiddling around with the five wires that connect to the relay, I was able to trace the interrupting signal to the solid light blue wire. This wire leads through a main wiring harness behind the dash and reappears in a plug on the steering column that goes into the turn signal switch. I won't go into details on how to access the turn signal switch unless someone really wants the detailed process...it's not that hard to figure out if you know how to remove the ignition lock cylinder.

After unplugging, unscrewing, and removing the turn signal switch, I pried open the two halves of the unit. I'm assuming this switch assembly is normally a non-serviceable part, but I figured I had nothing to lose by exploring the guts of it. I have to say this is one helluva complicated switch, and anyone who takes one apart should be VERY careful not to lose parts and pay close attention to how the pieces come apart and go back together...it's very helpful to have a friend help hold pieces during both disassembly and reassembly.

Once the switch was apart, I removed three of the little copper sliding contact pieces, simply cleaned the contact heads by rubbing them lightly with sand-paper, and then re-bent the flat contact "springs" to ensure they would have a tighter contact with the parts they are supposed to connect with. I reassembled the switch with the "repaired" contact pieces and it has completely rid the relay of the intermittent signal which was causing the buzzing / clicking noise. Please note that when reassembling the switch to be extremely careful when closing the two halves back together, as all of the little plastic tabs that move the switches, particularly the one connected to the end of the turn signal lever, MUST be in perfect position as you snap the halves back together, or you will damage the little tabs that move the contact slides (ask me how I know ). Also, as stated before, it's very helpful to have a friend use a small pick to help move the contact slides into position as you close the two halves of the switch back together...I honestly don't think I could reassemble the switch successfully by myself.

Hope this helps a few of you who experience this problem. It took a bit of time to troubleshoot, but it did save me $91 for a replacement switch as well as a trip to the dealership. Let me know if you have any questions!

-Ron-
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#19 ·
Ditto on the last post. Flasher relay near the left side of the radio. I think it was blue in color. Pain in the but to get to.