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Discussion Starter #1
I am going to install recon cab lights this weekend. Can anyone give me a picture or specific location of the plug that I need to tap into for the cab lights? I would really like to be able to get the wire terminal ends for the factory harness but I have never seen these for sale. Any tips or info would be great!
 

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Ditto. If anyone can respond to Joshua's post, I've been doing the same search. i saw guys talk about a violet & white wire behind the glove box, but if this so called "smart plug" exists, I'd like more info on it. I also ordered Recon's Marker lights, but I went with the low profile ones that are on the new gen Dodge, which Looks cool and Recon says works great on our trucks too. But I would imagine if it is made for Dodge, probably won't plug right into our smart plug.... I have a 2008 F250 FX4. Did not come with any cab marker lights.
 

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If by "smart plug" you are referring to what Ford calls the "smart junction box" or "generic electronic module", it is located behind a pop off plastic trim panel in the front passenger foot well on the right side.

Pull the carpet back a bit and you should be able to remove the panel easily. If I recall, there is also a plastic cover on top of the module that you have to remove to access the fuses on the module.
 

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Thanks. I'll take a look and report back when I get around to this project. Just conflicting reports because some posts claim it is behind the driver side kick panel and others have said passenger side behind the glove box. It would help if I knew what I was looking for. See previous thread where tvandyck7 talks about it on the driver's side. In post #10 he refers to the "cab light harness/connector". It sounds like that is the way to go:
http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f55/dodge-smoked-led-recon-cab-clearance-lights-installed-271217/
Here's another claiming driver's side: http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f55/cab-clearance-light-hookup-221752/
And here's one claiming passenger side referred to as a "smart plug" : (right in post #1)
http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f55/cab-marker-lights-did-222429/
 

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Looking at the diagram, it appears you are looking for connector C913 which feeds the factory clearance lights. This is a round four position connector with only two wires, a violet w/ white which is the 12V lead fed from the parking lamp relay in the smart junction box and a black w/ gray which is the ground connection. The connector is located behind the left (drivers) side of the instrument panel.
 

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WP6529. Thanks for the valuable information. This will prove very helpful.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
hey guys. The plug for the factory cab lights is on the drivers side. Its a round plug with two wires. Nothing will be plugged in to this unless you have the factory cab lights. Its very hard to see and its even harder to attach one of those wire splice clips on to. I was going to install the dodge cab lights on my truck but since I have the sunroof I would have had to move the cab lights forward about an inch and I did not want to do this. I got the smoked Ford ones instead and have been very pleased with them. I am not sure that I can even get a good shot to take a picture of this plug. It is attached to the side of the truck with on of those plastic push pin things and if I recall correctly, the plug side is facing the front of the truck. Hope this helps.
 

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Josh, Did you use the plug for your installation? And does any of the kick panel need to be popped off or were you able to reach up there from laying akwardly on your back above the emergency brake?
 

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There you go Mike. I told you wrong. It is the DRIVER's side. I PM'd you my instructions. After hearing what others say about the cab light plug, I would just tap the parking light wire and be done with it. Especially since your harness is not preterminated with a plug.

Josh: I'm glad you went with the Ford lights since you have a sunroof, because now that I think of it, the Dodge lights might not have worked for you. There is a reinforcement beam that starts at the windshield and comes back around 4". This would have made your install a pain if the sunroof trucks are designed the same. Moving the lights up 1" would have definitely put your front screws right under that beam, not to mention that it probably would have looked a bit odd with them being so far up.
 

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Thomas, I did get your PM and proved to be valuable infomation. When I install mine I will do my best to keep a log along with picture to help others in the future. Rather than answer you on PM, I will ask here so others can see the answer too. 2 things:

1. What size hole do you drill for the center hole and do you just use a drill bit capable of drilling metal or something more specialized?

2. The front screws that you talk about being a pain to get in if you are too close to the reinforcement beam.... Are they just sheet metal screws? i.e. thread right into the roof? I would imagine the lights would fasten with a nut and bolt? Is this not the case? Keep in mind I haven't recieved the package yet, so not sure what they provide.
 

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Thomas, I did get your PM and proved to be valuable infomation. When I install mine I will do my best to keep a log along with picture to help others in the future. Rather than answer you on PM, I will ask here so others can see the answer too. 2 things:

1. What size hole do you drill for the center hole and do you just use a drill bit capable of drilling metal or something more specialized?

2. The front screws that you talk about being a pain to get in if you are too close to the reinforcement beam.... Are they just sheet metal screws? i.e. thread right into the roof? I would imagine the lights would fasten with a nut and bolt? Is this not the case? Keep in mind I haven't recieved the package yet, so not sure what they provide.
Sounds good to me.

1.) I used a step bit to drill out the center hole. I think I made the hole 3/8 or 7/16. It really doesn't matter as long as the plug will pass through. You don't have to use a step bit. Just be sure to start with a small bit and work your way up. You can use regular metal bits.

2.) The screws are sheet metal screws. You could use nuts and bolts/machine screws if you'd prefer, just drill larger holes. I like the sheet metal screws because it was just easier.

Your package will come with the 5 lights, a wiring harness, 10 stainless sheet metal screws, 10 screw o-rings (don't use these, they are no good, you will see when you get yours), a line tap, and instructions for installing on a Dodge.

Like I said in the PM, BE SURE to run a bead of silicone under the outside edge of each light, and around the underside of the screw hole. The foam seal that is on them is crap for being watertight. I ruined a set of lights because I didn't silicone them under the edges and water got up under the lenses. The units are completely sealed (supposedly), but some how water can still get in from the underside. They have epoxy over every screw, so there is no way to separate the lenses from the bases to dry them out. Trust me I tried and obliterated one of the old ones just out of curiosity. It is much better to be safe and just silicone them. I'm not talking about siliconing them after you screw them down, because that would look bad. I talking about running a bead of silicone around the underneath side of the outside edge, and around the front and rear screw holes on the underside, and then sticking them down on the roof and screwing them down tight. Then wipe away the excess that mashes out. This will ensure that they are waterproof.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I used the factory wire and just used a line splice to get power from the factory wire. I could not find the plug without buying the wiring harness. I dont think I had to remove any of the kick panel but it is very tight trying to get both hands under the dash to get the wire spliced. I used screws with nuts because I did not like the idea of the sheet metal screws but that is just me. I really cant tell you why you should or should not. I also ran a bead of caulk around the outside edge and have not had any leaks. I used a metal punch for my center holes and drilled the screw holes a little larger than the screws that I purchased to mount it.
 

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Ok Mike. Post some pics. Let's see them!
 

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I'm working on posting a full tutorial on how to do this job. I took some decent pictures along the way. I will start a new thread with step by step details of how I did mine. For now here's the finished product:
IMG_2399.jpg IMG_2397.jpg
 

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Diagram for 2014 Superduty Marker Light Connector

Here are diagrams pulled from a service guide. Try to open in MS Paint or another picture editing App in order to enlarge the diagram. The view of the driver's side, left of the steering wheel is for the 2014 Superduty The picture turned 90 degrees is for a 2009 Superdiuty. Both diagrams identify the location as C913 Good luck.
 

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Holy cow. A 4 year old thread brought back to life. I can't believe some of those questions I was asking back then. The C913 referenced above by Lemmy I am sure is great if you get Ford Factory Cab lights and their wire harness. If you use after market, you are just going to have to find a wire to tap into. I chose the wire that powered on when my parking lights go on (first click on the headlight dial)... Anyway, if you want to see the full write up I did back then, here it is:
http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f55/installing-cab-lights-2008-f250-278593/
 
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