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Discussion Starter #1
I’ve rotated around to Midnights again, and also doing some meetings during the day so I’m like a walking Zombie😬 and may not be thinking clearly—some input would be helpful

I’m pricing/ putting together parts list for the brake job- all four wheels. Since Rock Auto is mentioned a lot on here wanted to know about the quality of brake calipers and hoses? As good as anywhere else or better?

And... One of the questions for hose application at NAPA was do you have ABS brakes. Does my 2002 F350 have ABS brakes? I don’t remember seeing any wires going to the hubs. Parts guy is saying if there’s no wire going to hub the truck doesn’t have ABS- but makes a difference on the flex hose (line)—maybe I just haven’t paid attention. I will get the truck up on jack stands tomorrow.
 

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I would change hoses if they are original I had one blow on my 02 last year and had to put it through a fuel to keep from hitting a state trooper at a stop light. It was a ride with my 35' gooseneck loaded. Thank God the state trooper was cool and took me to a parts house.
 

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Thank God the state trooper was cool and took me to a parts house.
Good deal. Always nice to have a good experience with the Law!
 

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Follow the brake lines from the master cylinder. If they go out to the wheels, it's non-ABS. If they go to a big module with a bunch of wires, that's the ABS HCU. Another clue would be an ABS light on the dash that proves out each time the key is turned to RUN. The VIN's 4th digit also indicates ABS or not, so try a few VIN decoder websites.
http://www.fordparts.com/
http://www.tascaparts.com/
https://www.etis.ford.com/vehicleRegSelector.do

I wouldn't change any parts NOT on the maintenance schedule, unless they fail some published test. Replacements are NOT as reliable as originals. The hoses on my truck have over a million miles on them.

The only difference in ABS hoses is that they have clips made on them to hold the ABS sensor wires - you can use them on a non-ABS truck if they're easier to find or cheaper.
 

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Thanks Steve. Guys I need some advice with what I found. Got a couples hours in on the truck this morning after work. Got it up on stands. Checked parking brakes- good, but made small adjustment while in the air. Rear wheels turn free, brakes good. Put in 4WD— put in Drive, loud clunk from right front wheel—ABS light came on. Has not done this until now. After the “clunk” 4WD operating quiet. Turns off and on fine with the 4H/4L switch. Drive Line rotating quiet. I removed wheels-can see the ABS cables attached to front calipers and going into the hubs. I disconnected negative cables for a couple minutes. Hooked back up, started truck- ABS light came back on. I know absolutely nothing about ABS! Now wondering if this it what was causing the steering pull on Jun. 29th after engaging the 4WD and a right swerve when applying brakes (which cleared up). I’m still going to change calipers & hoses but not sure what triggers the ABS, is it the hub? How do I check it? I’ve changed the 4wd spindle hub on an ‘01 Blazer before because the bearings were going out but with that I could feel the vibration while driving. I didnt feel anything out of the ordinary with the truck at 70 mph. Thank guys— I could use some direction to go.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Also........ I guess from what I’ve read the ABS light should be throwing out a code (bad sensor, etc.) should I be getting a code reader bought
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Tomorrow I’m bolting wheels back up on front to check for any play in hubs and will check u-joints
Got Brake Parts all ordered.
And read about the ABS sensors on front and vss on differential- so to pull ABS codes instead of chasing my tail figured now was as good a time as any— ordered the autoenginuity enhanced.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Very Weird! No play or wobble when checking wheel. Stripped wheel adaptor & rotor, checked ABS sensor, turned hub and oh my gosh! Noisy, loose parts rattling around. I took a video. Will try and get ported over to photobucket and posted.
 

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Sounds like you need a new hub. Pull the other side and lube the spindle bearing also.
DENNY
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Sounds like you need a new hub. Pull the other side and lube the spindle bearing also.
DENNY

While I’ve got it tore down I bought two—I’m hoping the needle bearing didn’t score my outer shaft.
What do you think about the idea of replacing the u-joints while I’m there—or a waste of money?
 

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You might go ahead and buy the u-joints and pull the axles out to check them. If you find they're loose, you can then replace them. Be advised that the standard C-clamp style ball joint/u-joint press won't work on them. The cups are too large to fit in the hole in the press, and putting any rings in will make the clamp too small to fit around the yoke. A hydraulic shop press will be needed.
 

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If they feel and look good I would not replace them (mostly because I screw up a lot and have to do it twice). I usually keep my front hubs locked 6-8 months a year and they do fine. BUT, if any question throw in a new one while it is apart. I can live a bit closer to the edge because Klhansen is only 10 miles from my house and if I don't have the part in the shop he usually does!!!
DENNY
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I can live a bit closer to the edge because Klhansen is only 10 miles from my house and if I don't have the part in the shop he usually does!!!
DENNY

:surprise: Lmao
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I pulled the hubs today. On the right front that was suspect, I found metal shavings— but it doesn’t appear to be the needle bearing or surface of the outer drive shaft—probably internal.
To remove the drive shaft do I just use a large pry bar, getting behind the u-joint and force the shaft with seals out of the knuckle?
That’s what it looks like— inside of knuckle is a little corroded, but I noticed the back seal has come apart looking from behind which probably explains the bearing going out if water has been getting in there. Thanks!
 

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To remove the drive shaft do I just use a large pry bar, getting behind the u-joint and force the shaft with seals out of the knuckle?
Yep. But you need to be careful that the seal doesnt catch on the edge of the bore in the knuckle. Some of the seals have a metal backer disk. if that gets caught and bent, it's going to make it harder to get the axle shaft out.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thank you!!! Got the axles out. Not a lot of room to work with a pry bar......started first with a porta power spreader, between knuckle and u-joint—side to side. Moved it out far enough to get a prybar between axle tube and old seal (see picture) and then popped them out.

The needle bearing polished surfaces on axles look good as well as those that go into the differential. The u-joints have no play in them and have grease zirks so I’m going to leave them alone.
Anyone know if greasable u-joints were installed by Ford or has someone likely already replaced them?
Also I’m going to make a seal installer instead of buying one— when using seal installer to seat the axle and seal all the way into the knuckle is there a positive stop you can feel where you know it’s in far enough for the groove and split ring Thanks!
 

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Big Horn,
I think Ford u-joints lacked zerks for that era.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Beginning around 1990...


(phone app link)
Definitely something to consider—no more than I will use my 4WD new sealed u-joints would probably last me the rest of my (trucks) life. Besides, now I know how to take the front hubs apart- Lol
Thanks Steve83
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Also-After reading a little more, I opted to buy the seating tool—as the directions say the tool is made to seat axle and hub seal to the correct depth.
 
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