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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anyone seen one of these? I've been reading Tom S & TimC63 elec fuel setup & think I want to stay with CAT filters for both pre & post pump but prefer the clear bowl. Also interested in Tom S interia switch but can't find similar to save my life. Thx
 

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http://cgi.ebay.com/FUEL-PUMP-INERTIA-SW...VQQcmdZViewItem

There are the inertial switches on Ebay.

The Cat filter I am using pre-pump with the clear bowl is really a Stanadyne filter head, fuel heater, and clear bowl. I just cross referenced the cat filter I wanted for in length and micron rating and modded the head with a dremel tool to accept it. Nothing wrong with the Stanadyne filters as far as I can see I just wanted the matching look.

Tom
 

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LabRat,

I have followed Tom and Tim in their respective setups have basically a similar one. I looked at a variety of filter setups and went with a spin on (actually two) filter heads both 1" diameter by 14 threads per inch so I could use CAT filters. Was concerned about mashing a see through bowl so I went with a Donaldson spin on P558000 (steel filter) which has an H2O drain on the pre-pump side and a CAT 1R-0570 post pump.

Used two Donaldson P562261 filterheads on an aluminium plate to mount filters on. In respect of heating I have in place a Vegitherm Mega in line heater from PlantDrive.com plumbed up stream of the P558000 filter for cold weather.

jrc
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
[ QUOTE ]
http://cgi.ebay.com/FUEL-PUMP-INERTIA-SW...VQQcmdZViewItem

There are the inertial switches on Ebay.

The Cat filter I am using pre-pump with the clear bowl is really a Stanadyne filter head, fuel heater, and clear bowl. I just cross referenced the cat filter I wanted for in length and micron rating and modded the head with a dremel tool to accept it. Nothing wrong with the Stanadyne filters as far as I can see I just wanted the matching look.

Tom

[/ QUOTE ]

Tom - I like the matching look also (kinda picky that way). It looks like you are using this <font color="blue"> filter </font> in your modified head but I don't see how you attach the clear bowl on the bottom. I figured the filter would have to be a flow through version (w/o the drain on the bottom & threaded to accept the clear bowl). Guess it's not clear to me how the assembly goes together. Is the CAT drain opened inside the plastic bowl? How does the bowl attach to the filter?

Jcart has a good point - do you have a bypass method for the pre-filter in case the plastic case is damaged? Any idea what temp range the plastic is good for?

BTW - thx for the inertia link!

[ QUOTE ]
LabRat,

I have followed Tom and Tim in their respective setups have basically a similar one. I looked at a variety of filter setups and went with a spin on (actually two) filter heads both 1" diameter by 14 threads per inch so I could use CAT filters. Was concerned about mashing a see through bowl so I went with a Donaldson spin on P558000 (steel filter) which has an H2O drain on the pre-pump side and a CAT 1R-0570 post pump.

Used two Donaldson P562261 filterheads on an aluminium plate to mount filters on. In respect of heating I have in place a Vegitherm Mega in line heater from PlantDrive.com plumbed up stream of the P558000 filter for cold weather.

jrc

[/ QUOTE ]

Jcart - thx for the info & detailed PNs. Yet more info to make my choices even more difficult. I'll check 'em out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
[ QUOTE ]
http://cgi.ebay.com/FUEL-PUMP-INERTIA-SW...VQQcmdZViewItem

There are the inertial switches on Ebay.

The Cat filter I am using pre-pump with the clear bowl is really a Stanadyne filter head, fuel heater, and clear bowl. I just cross referenced the cat filter I wanted for in length and micron rating and modded the head with a dremel tool to accept it. Nothing wrong with the Stanadyne filters as far as I can see I just wanted the matching look.

Tom

[/ QUOTE ]

This switch is from the UK - do they run on a 12V system? Thx
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Tom - can't find the Marshall vacuum gauge for fuel filter restricton either (I don't know where you get this stuff but it's eluding me). I did find fuel pressure gauge though.
 

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LabRat,

I used Hobbs switches on my system. One is hooked to the low pressure oil (tapped into at oil filter) and wired inline (ground circuit) for my SD E-pump relay. Therefor oil pressure less then 3 psi (IIRC) no SD fuel pump. The reason I used the ground circuit is that if the switch ever fails I just by pass at relay and still have a pump. Having said this however, engine will still start with SD fuel pump off although not sure how long it will run.

Hobbs switch two is hooked inline (ground circuit) using stock wiring and tapped into fuel system in the valley, to stock idiot light on dash, so any fuel pressure below 35 p.s.i. will turn on light. This Switch is adjustable to 30-75 psi (IIRC).

I did not put an inertia switch on my system.

jrc
 

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Hey Labrat!

[ QUOTE ]
Also interested in Tom S interia switch but can't find similar to save my life. Thx


[/ QUOTE ]

As far as the intertia switches go, any EFI Ford passenger car or truck from the mid 80's and through the 90's have intertia switches in them. So if you pick one up from a wrecking yard, you can clip the wiring harness and take the connector with you too.
F-series gassers had them on the inside of the firewall, above the trans hump. Most passenger cars had them on the panel the taillights mount to or sometimes on the side of the trunk up near the trunk hinges.

If you can stand the "look" of an ugly shield under your truck, I have several road trips on my installation and the shield that I built seems to be protecting the filters from road debris just fine.

Good luck and God Bless,

TC
 

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[ QUOTE ]
Tom - I like the matching look also (kinda picky that way). It looks like you are using this filter in your modified head but I don't see how you attach the clear bowl on the bottom. I figured the filter would have to be a flow through version (w/o the drain on the bottom & threaded to accept the clear bowl). Guess it's not clear to me how the assembly goes together. Is the CAT drain opened inside the plastic bowl? How does the bowl attach to the filter?


[/ QUOTE ]

Easy you remove the black plastic drain valve and screw on the clear bowl. The drain valve then screws onto the bottom of the clear bowl.

Those Inertia switches I linked to will work just fine. They are just cleaner looking then the ones from American cars but made by the same company.

http://www.1firsttech.com/data_sheets_pdfs/fco_resettabldash%20_sensors.pdf

http://www.1firsttech.com/products.asp

I found the gauge on Ebay but have since gotten one that works just like the original air filter restriction gauge. I just have not gotten it installed yet.

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
So the clear bowl does not screw on to the filter? It is held on with the drain plug? O-ring seal to outside of filter housing?
 

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[ QUOTE ]
Easy you remove the black plastic drain valve and screw on the clear bowl. The drain valve then screws onto the bottom of the clear bowl.


[/ QUOTE ]

Tom
how much length does the clear bowl at to the filter? Have you found a good source for just the bowls or can I order directly from Stanadyne

LabRat
I have a bunch of 30 micron cat/stanadyne filters. If you think you can use them for your system let me know.
 

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http://www.reliableindustries.com/catalog/STN/fm100.php?show=kits

http://www.reliableindustries.com/catalog/viewpart.php?qiid=STN_33640

There is the clear bowl by itself and the assembly I ordered and just added the heater to it. I think the bowl adds about 2 inches in length to the filter. If you call Reliable you can spec the assembly you want for filter length, port sizes and options. The clear bowl screws into the hole where the drain plug normally screws in at the bottom of the filter. Napa also sells this line of filter heads and such as well. I found them in the online catalog.

Tom
 

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Question Tom is there a place on the net were you picked up your cat final filter the high efficiancy 2 micron, I have a cat dealer about an hour away from me but would rather just buy one with my key pad. And what kind of pressure can it hold up to cause most filters are only rated at max burst pressure of 60 psi but im not sure about the cat filter it seems like a really good filter though.

Robert
 

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Robert, I bought one at a truck parts place then I bought a bunch more off ebay for a really good price. The truck parts place was a general type of shop not just Cat and they had them out on the shelf. I am not sure on the pressure rating but it has worked out just fine. The only addition I am thinking about for my system is a fuel cooler.

Tom
 

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Thats a good idea iv tossed that same idea around a bit PM me with any ideas or thoughts on it, But i put two of the push on filters with the lock cap on the top just like your water separator and the one that has the pump pressure leaks out of the gasket due to to much pressure, im running 65psi right now but would like to try 70psi and see how it does. But i want to switch to a thread on filter and from doing a little reading the cat high efficiancy filter sound like what i want so ill find on, ill probably just end up driving up to cat to get some, thanks for the help.

Robert
 

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[ QUOTE ]
And what kind of pressure can it hold up to cause most filters are only rated at max burst pressure of 60 psi but im not sure about the cat filter it seems like a really good filter though.


[/ QUOTE ]

Here is some circular logic to consider. It won't give you any definites but I think you all will get the idea why I post it, I think it helps...

1) The CAT 1R-0750 is 2 micron filter for CATs with HEUI and similar injectors. Per the WIX database (accessible through Fleetfilter.com) shows the WIX/NAPA Gold 3528 to be a direct replacement for the 1R-0750 and more specifically a 2 micron high efficiency filter for the CAT engines.
2) The detailed description from the WIX site does not give a pressure spec for the 3528 but does state that the 3352 is the 6 micron version of this filter.
3) The detailed description of the 3352 confirms it is a 6 micron version of the 3528 and includes a burst pressure rating of 310 psi.

Now there are obvious holes in any conclusion you draw from these three bits of info, but the suggestion is that the 3528 (and CAT 1R-0750) is probably suitable, with a large safety margin, in the 60-70 psi range we are running. I have run the 3528 for about 7k miles at 68-69 psi on my mechanical gauge (Digital gauge in the cab shows 64-65 psi) without any problems.

Good to see so much thought going into this, as sloppy upgrades of a fuel system could be awful dangerous! Also worth noting, I have talked a bit with Tom S. about this and other things in the past and can say with confidence that his finding are well-thought-out and sound. I am a bit more "function over form" whereas Tom's product is functional AND looks nice too! WTG Tom S. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif

God Bless,

TC
 

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http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail...mp;autoview=sku


That was a link I had saved when I was contemplating a fuel cooler in the past. I felt that it might work well on a frame rail and would be tough enough to survive under the truck mounting. Up in front where a tranny cooler would go would be good for cooling but not so hot in a collision if the fuel pump did not get cut off by the inertia switch. I need to do some more research on this.


Tom
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
WOW! I'm too new to this.... Why would you want to cool your fuel? I can think why to heat it. Your thoughts?
 

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Hot diesel fuel looses some of it's lubrication properties as it gets hot. I think it also generates less power.

Tom
 

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TimC63 Thanks for that info I have a napa dealer just down the road and iv been in there talking to them but they didnt know that and neither did i ill take those part #s in to them tommorrow and see what they have to say, but just from reading the discription on fleetfilter it looks to be a direct replacement for the cat filter.

Robert
 
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