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OK, first off, How do I get the stock one off to turn it around? I saw the phillips looking heads on top, but I could not get them to budge. Second can I just run a hose straight out to the back? I know to run it over the brake booster ect.. I just dont want to cruise around smelling like oil all the time, or leave a drip everywhere. Also, when I pulled my intake off fom the turbo last, there was about a teaspoon of oil sitting in the entrance of the turbo. My truck has 229K on it, and I am sure the intercooler is very dirty which I am going to remove and clean out it and the tubes and get new boots once I figure out the CCV stuff.

Any info is appreciated.

RG
 

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There are two bolts going straight down through the "dog house" and into the valve cover. Mine weren't that tight. To get it to seal well, you might do what I did. Clean both the dog house and the valve cover very, very well with brake cleaner. Then use a lot of silicone and the factory POS orings, cleaned with brake cleaner, for re-install. Make sure you don't lose the little spacers that will/should come out with the bolts and dog house. Just be aware there are spacers along with the bolts.

As for what to do to terminate the hose, there are a few options. Run it to the back and drip (mine didn't but the vapors were nasty), run a Racor filter (lots of success by people but you need to drain it), or tie it into the exhaust like I eventually did. My install works flawlessly for me.

CLICK HERE for a good discussion and some pics. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smokin.gif
 

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The two phillips head bolts are all that hold it on, keep trying it will come off. Lining up the Oring again is a pain but it can be done. take a look in my sig at the homemade CCV mod that I did. Got the original idea from gary T and then I came up with the special mounting bracket. I like this system the best because it does not alter the factory flow of air back into the intake, it just cleans the air of oil first. If you don't like dripping oil spots and the smell of oil then don't just run the line down and leave it at that because that is what you will have. There are many different mods for the CCV as I said I felt the one I did was best for me. I have made several for folks on this forum, as a matter of fact I am making two right now. PM if you are interested in me making you one or I can give you a parts list.
Kevin
 

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I bought the Racor CCV filter kit for the PSD 7.3. It mounts on the valve cover and seperates the oil from the blowby gases. The oil goes back to the crankcase and the gases are sent to the intercooler. A bit pricey ($240) but its a nice install.
 

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[ QUOTE ]
OK, first off, How do I get the stock one off to turn it around? I saw the phillips looking heads on top, but I could not get them to budge. Second can I just run a hose straight out to the back? I know to run it over the brake booster ect.. I just dont want to cruise around smelling like oil all the time, or leave a drip everywhere. Also, when I pulled my intake off fom the turbo last, there was about a teaspoon of oil sitting in the entrance of the turbo. My truck has 229K on it, and I am sure the intercooler is very dirty which I am going to remove and clean out it and the tubes and get new boots once I figure out the CCV stuff.

Any info is appreciated.

RG

[/ QUOTE ]

When you do get the breather off and go to turn around, you will discover the diamond shaped O-rings between the brether and valve cover are swollen and now too large in diamter to re-install properly. So you will need two of them. I have two part numbers for you F4TZ-6769-A & F4TZ-6769-C...one of these is the mentioned _oring and one is a small balck O-ring that seals the philips head screw to the breather. I can't remember which is which. Btw, I have my hose venting back near the fuel tank and not a drop of oil has come out. I do get plenty of vapor though. I think liquid oil tends to come out when hooked up via vacuum like originally. Since it's vented to atmosphere now, liquid oil tends to stay in the valve cover. The climb the oil would have to go through over the brake booster probably helps too.

Hammer
 

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I did the CCV mod thinking it wouldn't matter much, and yes I did purchase the model from Mr. Haas. He makes a very nice kit and for the price, I think it is much cleaner and stronger than a piece of PVC. But, I have to admit, I can tell the difference between having it and not. It just seems to run cleaner and yes I blow HUGE billows of smoke even in this summer heat. I just wish I had done it earlier! I have been curious how long it will take to get all the old oil residue out of my intercooler.
 

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Sic, who did you buy your racor kit from? I'm interested in the same kit. Is it tthe 4500 or the 3550?
Denny
 

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I installed the Racor4500 1 1/2yrs ago. I mounted it on the outside
of the frame under the drivers seat. Believed it or not, I get
1/4 cup of oil out of it every month. There is no oil on the inter
cooler boots any more. I change the filter once a year. I love mine.
 

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1/4 cup every month!!! WOW!!!! Do you have the line going over the brake booster??? This seems like an awful lot of oil. How many miles do you drive in a month? Towing or not? Just seems like a lot of oil to me. I get about a tablespoon, but I only travel about 1K per month and usually not towing except summer months.
For the other poster, don't knock "PVC" it is just another type of plastic which I am sure is what yours is made of. If you feel better spending $240.00 for something that can me built for a lot less, than that is good for you, but don't knock those of us who like to make our own when possible. If the end result is the same = oil out of intake,with no oil leaks caused from clogged filters (like the $240.00 models are known for) that is all that matters.
 

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No, I don't have it going over the brake booster.
I was concerned that it would possible get clogged
up. I have thought about changing it back to running
over the brake master cyclinder. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/warmsmile.gif
 

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I would not do this as that is a lot of oil to be dumping out the back. If you are using the 3/4 OD heater hose, that is a big whole to get clogged. If you were worried about it just make a joint where you can easily reach it and pull it apart to see if you can still feel air flow, no air flow = clog, but I don't think you will have a problem. I feel my airflow just by unscrewing the petcock. With the truck running it will blow the oil out of the canister.
 

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A little off the topic, but what is the reason for doing the CCV mod, just to keep the aftercooler clean?

Cody
 

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Yep, keep the oil in the crankcase, let the vapors get inhaled.

I bought a $49 add-on valvecover breather from summit. I holesaw'd the aft end of the pass. side valvecover and mounted it there. Plumbed it over to the H2E intake tube. Welded on an extra bung to the tube(there's already a bung for the oem ccv) and clamped it on. I noticed a small oil line from the new aux. ccv, looks like I'd better tighten it down a bit more.

Trav
 

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I wasn't referring to the Racor as a PVC unit. Some talented folks here make the 4" tube themselves utilizing a piece of PVC. Mr. Haas's unit is 4" aluminum with a mounting bracket welded to it and powder coated. Most systems exhaust to the atmosphere. The Racor unit is self contained and does NOT vent to the atmosphere.
 

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So is the homemade PVC type, and it also returns the factory flow of air to the intake so not to alter the amount of air going into the turbo. The only difference is that it is now clean air. The racoor's were having big problems with them clogging and causing pack pressure which caused more leaks. Something you need to keep an eye out for.
 

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[ QUOTE ]
Sic, who did you buy your racor kit from? I'm interested in the same kit. Is it tthe 4500 or the 3550?
Denny

[/ QUOTE ]
I bought mine from a company called Diesel Injection Sales and Service in San Antonio TX. It was the FRD 3550 02 kit. Sorry for the late reply.
 
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