[TexasAggie]

I first changed out the MC and SC to Autozone parts but the clutch switch was not working very well. First I'd have to mash the clutch into the floor as hard as possible, then it would not work at all without manually sliding the switch. Then I bought OEM MC, SC, line, and switch and installed them all. Now I still have to mash the clutch into the floor to start it and I'm not sure how to get all of the air out of the line. The clutch is not 100% engaged when my foot is on the floor so I can't shift into R without killing the engine, and it is very difficult to shift into 2 from a stop.

Any ideas?

 

[Patrick Feeley]

Make sure your bushings are good (clutch rod ... its probably new in your case ... and pedal box main shaft bushings). When bleeding the system (bleeder valve or not ... I've had both) here's how I do it: Unclip the slave from the bellhousing and let it hang from the line. Disconnect the clutch master cylinder rod from the pedal linkage (at the spot of the infamous bushing). Remove the reservoir cap and rubber diaphram. Cycle the slave slowliy by hand about 10 times and all the air should go up the line and out through the reservoir. You can even remove the whole thing (master, line and slave) as an assembly and do it on the bench (keeping everything from the slave going "uphill"), but it's not necessary. After all that, you may need to re-index the lever that is attached to the main pedal box shaft due to parts differences. It is splined (kind of) to the shaft, so you have to pry it off. Of course you want as little "free play" as possible before the rod starts getting pushed in, but don't have it where it is already pushing the master cylinder rod in with the pedal all the way out as that will cause a port in the master to be blocked (which is why I always disconnect the linkage before bleeding). Cheers!

 

[TexasAggie]

I didn't know the pedal itself was adjustable. How exactly do I pry the level off of the main shaft? Will it just slide off or is there something holding it in. I hate working up under there!

 

[Patrick Feeley]

There's a nut holding it on the end of the shaft, but the splines will hold it on. Gently use something to pry it off and then re-index it. I hate trying to work under there too! Cheers!

 

[TexasAggie]

I followed your recommendation and clocked the arm one tooth forward and the clutch works beautifully now. It is the first time in 9 years that I've had matching MC and SC, and it is properly configured so that it is much easier to depress.

I cussed a lot in the process, though!

Thanks!