I didn't know the pedal itself was adjustable. How exactly do I pry the level off of the main shaft? Will it just slide off or is there something holding it in. I hate working up under there!
Changed clutch master and slave cylinder..Having issues with bleeding and switch.
I first changed out the MC and SC to Autozone parts but the clutch switch was not working very well. First I'd have to mash the clutch into the floor as hard as possible, then it would not work at all without manually sliding the switch. Then I bought OEM MC, SC, line, and switch and installed them all. Now I still have to mash the clutch into the floor to start it and I'm not sure how to get all of the air out of the line. The clutch is not 100% engaged when my foot is on the floor so I can't shift into R without killing the engine, and it is very difficult to shift into 2 from a stop.
Any ideas?
Any ideas?
1 - 3 of 5 Posts
I followed your recommendation and clocked the arm one tooth forward and the clutch works beautifully now. It is the first time in 9 years that I've had matching MC and SC, and it is properly configured so that it is much easier to depress.
I cussed a lot in the process, though!
Thanks!
I cussed a lot in the process, though!
Thanks!
1 - 3 of 5 Posts
- This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
The Diesel Stop
A forum community dedicated to all Ford Diesel owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about PowerStrokes, performance, modifications, troubleshooting, towing capacity, maintenance, and more!
Full Forum Listing
