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Thank you so very much! I'm on the road to Palm Springs with the wife in 90 seconds, truck, camper, towing the 88 suzuki. Once again, much thanks. John Beck
 

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All Mobil 1 ATF is full synthetic.



Miles don't matter. How hot your tranny gets is what matters. If you ever see over 210°, you need full synthetic, such as Mobil 1 ATF. If you ever see 205° to 210°, you need synthetic blend, such as MotorCraft MERCON V Synthetic Blend. If you never see 205°, then you can probably get by with Motorcraft dino MERCON V, or even the cheaper Wal-Mart house brand of SuperTech MERCON ATF.

I never saw over 205° on mine, but I used Mobil 1 ATF just in case I ever got in a situation where I would get the tranny really hot.
This forum is awesome. I really appreciate the guys who help people out. Thanks guys.
I was always curious what overfilling oil can do to the truck and how much is over full. I did oil this am and ti is about 3/16 above the safe operating line. Could this really hurt the engine?
 

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If the oil is overfilled it can get whipped into foam by the crankshaft. Foamed oil can't lubricate, so you'll have metal to metal wear and if that gets bad enough you'll need a new engine. I don't know how much overfilled is too much. I never fill an engine all the way to the top of the full mark.
 

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Flushed it! Just completed the flush via the Mark Kovalsky / SmokeyWren Way. Excellent results. Worked just as they said it would. Dropped the pan and replaced the screen/filter. Used M1 Synthetic. Clear tubing was the just the ticket. My dad was the bucket and hose man while I started the engine. Flushing the transmission in the barn with my dad and being by the warmth of the wood stove made it all the better! Thanks for your expert advise and for saving all of us a lot of guesswork.
 

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Did mine this past Sunday, per the instructions, and with a filter change. Used the Mobil 1 Synthetic. With the wife in the cab, and me doing the rest...start to finish was about an hour.

Very easy. I wish I had back all that money I spent paying someone else to do it these past 10 years.
 

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Noob here to the 99 + side have had and IDI for about a year but just picked up a early 99 a few days ago. It has 340,000 on it and auto tranny started acting up yesterday somewhat like post #28 by zoomzx10r posted, when put in R or D it lags for a few seconds and then goes. And then today it was slipping, pushed on the skinny pedal and not the response I was used to. I immediatly (was 100 yards from AP store) pulled in and found she was low on fluid. So put about a gallon in and now is not slipping but still get a bit of lag when intially putting in gear. I have no history on this truck whatsoever so was planning on going through it front to rear.

My question... I will do a filter change per directions in this thread but should I stick with dino oil since my AT is probably on its last leg, or use synthetic to get me a little further along?
Is there anyway to tell if tranny is rebuilt?
Thanks a million
 

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Synthetic is only going to help if you do a lot of towing and frequently get the trans hot. In normal use there isn't much advantage to synthetic.
 

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I did this last night. I only had 4 of the 5 gallons so I didn't get to finish. 5th is in the mail so hopefully be here today.

One helpful tip I would like to add, if you have a Tru-Kool transmission cooler you will not need to remove the return line at the transmission. I was able to use the line that was spliced in for the trans cooler in the front that goes from the return line to the cooler. The fluid comes out of the line going to the cooler so that is the one you place in the bucket. Just undo the hose clamp and pull the cooler line off. I was able to actually just drain it back into the empty trans fluid containers and could tell when it was 1.5 gallons easily. I did have some leakage out of the other part but it was probably just dripping from what was in the line.
 

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Were you getting just some dribble out of the other line, or a small steady stream? The first would be fluid in the line, the second would indicate a problem with the cooler bypass, a problem that is easy to detect if you remove the line at the rear of the trans, which is why I wrote the procedure the way I did.
 

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Dribble. Wasn't a constant dribble. Just enough to drip onto the radiator hose and run a little. I had to drain out of the line a second time after reattaching though because I misread something and had to drain another 1.5 quarts out. It didn't drip anything out that time.
 

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In the Beginning of this thread in was noted that Mercon V was acceptable now in the 4R100 transmission, my question is, I did the transmission flush as noted several 1000 miles ago, and now time for another flush, I still have several left over quarts (over 1/2 case) of the Mercon, is it OK to buy Mercon V and combine the two, or NOT, I really don't want to waste it at over $6 a qt.

Thank you again for a fantastic write up, it worked so well.
 

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Yes, that will work fine.
 

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not to side step the thread, but installing a 6.0 cooler, on a truck that has OTW as well as the OTA 7.3 cooler, is it wise to "delete" the OTW, and just run the 6.0 cooler, and back to trans?
 

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No. The OTW is the most efficient part of the cooling stack and has little resistance. Do not bypass it.


Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 

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Discussion Starter #55
not to side step the thread, but installing a 6.0 cooler, on a truck that has OTW as well as the OTA 7.3 cooler, is it wise to "delete" the OTW, and just run the 6.0 cooler, and back to trans?
Not at all wise. The oil-to-water (OTW) cooler does most of the work under extreme conditions, and the oil-to-air (OTA) cooler is an auxiliary. As long as you have ATF flow back into the tranny after the coolers of at least one quart in 15 seconds (one GPM) then don't worry about it.
 

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Bypass filter? You can't plumb that directly into this circuit. Bypass filters have restrictors that would wipe out flow. You need a Magnefine or nothing.


Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 

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Good info
 

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Installing 6.0L cooler at same time

I am just about ready to replace my fluid, and have a new 6.0L cooler. I have installed a spin-on baldwin filter per Woodnthings method, and am wondering the best process to get as much fluid out as possible. Spin on mounted, but not actually connected yet.... was going to do all at once.

Should I drain pain, then disconnect hot and return line and blow 10psi air through to get everything out of the lines, then install new 6.0L cooler and new spin-on filter, clean pan, replace in tranny filter and then fill?

TimK
 
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