[JOAT]

Just something I threw together. I'm sure others have probably come up with similar ideas.

PAGE WITH PICS HERE

I'll add pics when it's fully assembled and installed

 

[dOGhAIR]

thanks JOAT, nice.

 

[asnowsquall]

2 constructive things I'd like to say.
1) Fittings are not barbed, and there is not a lot of surface area when clamping on to a short pipe reducer. May be OK as long as the vehicle doesn't overheat, but the build up of pressure and heat during a overheat condition may pop them off. Graingers has barbed fitting but they are about $6 and you would need the 3/4 copper fitting with pipe threads to be able to thread the barbed fitting on so about another $3, so about $18 for the cooling feed in and out on the T. About $6 for the 2 fittings to put a compresion fitting on the fuel out end.
2) The hose could be difficult to replace depending on the length of the fuel line coming out of the T.

I'm sure you have thought of all this, and I'm not trying to be a pain in the butt, it's just sometimes you can save money up front only to have a very difficult time later on where you sit and think I wish I hadn't done this like this. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif

 

[JOAT]

[ QUOTE ]
1) Fittings are not barbed, and there is not a lot of surface area when clamping on to a short pipe reducer. May be OK as long as the vehicle doesn't overheat, but the build up of pressure and heat during a overheat condition may pop them off.

[/ QUOTE ]

I had considered barbs, but at 16psi for pressurized systems (mine is zero pressure), I didn't think it would be needed. Adding a lenght of pipe, a slight flare at the ends, or filing a groove around where the hose attaches should give plenty additional grip to a hose held on by hose clamps at that pressure. I've clamped to strait tubing before with no problems. My motorhome rear heat is all heater hose to straight tube, though it is a longer surface area.

[ QUOTE ]
The hose could be difficult to replace depending on the length of the fuel line coming out of the T.


[/ QUOTE ]

Yeah, on a straight line it gets difficult to slide on, but not impossible. If you built it on a coil, it is probably near impossible to replace without straightening out. I really intended this for short the run from my tank to the filter with one bend, and the longer run from the pump to the engine compartment. Figure it will give fast heat rise compared to just running the line and hose side by side.

[ QUOTE ]
I'm sure you have thought of all this, and I'm not trying to be a pain in the butt,

[/ QUOTE ]

Somebodys got to do it /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Just kidding, thanks for the input. Now everybody has some worst case scenarios to consider. I figure if you had to you could bypass the heater hose line temporarily without having to mess with the fuel line. I'll post if it gives me any problems

 

[JOAT]

Another thing I considered but forgot to list, was to use 3/4" pipe the whole distance between the two fitting assemblys, giving you a rigid assembly. If doing this I would probably slip an o-ring over the fuel tubing every several inches, in case it rubs against the outer pipe.

 

[350 long rod]

this is the same way I made my HIH but I used compression fittingg to seal the fuel line conversion pics

 

[hahn]

I also made hose-in-hose lines from my tank to the engine using compression fittings to seal the ends where the 3/8 line exits the "t".
I like your set up for compactness and wonder if it wouldn't be even better if you used copper for the 3/8 line as well. That way you could solder the whole shebang together and not worry about clamping that short section of rubber hose to seal the dissimilar metals. I know there a lot of folks who are worried about using copper in the WVO lines because of corrosion concerns. I still maintain that any oil corrosive enough to be a real problem with copper will do *terrible* things to the steelparts of your injection pump long before the fuel lines are a problem.

 

[JOAT]

[ QUOTE ]
I like your set up for compactness and wonder if it wouldn't be even better if you used copper for the 3/8 line as well. That way you could solder the whole shebang together and not worry about clamping that short section of rubber hose to seal the dissimilar metals. I know there a lot of folks who are worried about using copper in the WVO lines because of corrosion concerns. I still maintain that any oil corrosive enough to be a real problem with copper will do *terrible* things to the steelparts of your injection pump long before the fuel lines are a problem.

[/ QUOTE ]

Copper is an option, and many use it. The question is not just whether the WVO corrodes the copper, but whether the copper acts as a catalyst to break down the WVO. Wish I knew the answer. I decided on aluminum to be safe, plus it's cheaper and I have a bunch of it.


EDIT: I added the 1/2" stub to the heater hose inlet, as suggested. Updated the web page.

BTW it's possible to solder the aluminum to the copper as well. Requires a special flux and "tinning" material on the aluminum first. Not commonly available, so I didn't bother going that route.