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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everyone, so normally I don’t believe in coincidences, and am trying to methodically think this thru and have went back thru the “Advanced Search” on my issue.

Sorry for the Lo.....ong Post, but here’s where I’m at.

I was in St. Louis, Mo. on business yesterday, I never drive my truck over there but I did this particular day. Two things I remember: I stopped and got diesel fuel at a P66 that I never go to😬, and the inner city roads I was on had some speed bumps I wasn’t aware of and the F350 took a beating because I didn’t see them in time😡

Fast forward, finished business there and drove 20 miles (no issues) to work on the afternoon shift at the factory. Got off work, left parking lot, truck stumbled and died. Started right back up.

On the way home for the first few miles the occasional dreaded hiccup, or miss, then evened out and perfect for 14 miles rest of the way home.

Got up early this morning, drained fuel bowl, changed fuel filter, and drained water separator on frame suction fuel filter (hutch mod) and no signs of water or impurities after settling out. 😙 climbed up on top of engine and inspect wiring harness, no abrasion through the looming into the wires.

Checked my ScanGauge 2, no codes. Crawled underneath to look at location of CPS. Wow, that’s gonna be a PITA. I have a spare (black color F4TZ-12K073-C) in my truck But no time today. Decided I will change tomorrow morning.

Drove to work this afternoon, same thing (except I have eliminated the fuel issue and fuel psi never fluctuated either day has stayed steady 60+ psi), had a few hiccups / miss for the first 4 or 5 miles, then cleared up all the way to work.
Checked ScanGauge2 again / No Codes.

I did read/see on a video that someone mentioned hard jolts, rough roads can break down an older CPS and remembered the speed bumps.

So tomorrow I’ll install the replacement CPS I have. I searched online with my part number and they’re showing a purple CPS, are these any good?

And if RT or someone running a ScanGauge2 is online are they pretty reliable for showing Codes? I never got a CEL.
I have read that fuel issues won’t throw a code and sometimes an intermittent CPS won’t throw a Code.

I have a AE but have just never gotten around to setting it up yet🙄 So I’ll see what the replacement CPS does tomorrow and if problems still persists I’ll hook up the AE on my days off and look for any stored codes. Oh, signature is up to date except I’m almost at 195k.

Thanks! Big Horn
 

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Since your unit is 4WD it's high enough to easily scoot head and shoulders under the front end and reach up and get that single bolt holding the CPS in , it just looks more difficult than it is, unless the little bolt has never been out. I keep a 10mm deep well and 1/4" drive rachet in my spares with a ready CPS, In 256K I have changed 4, three on the side of the road. Two just quit, one lingered for a few weeks and would just shut the engine down a one second count then allow the engine to take it back up producing a big jolt on the drive line. Scariest one was a sudden death CPS failure in the Atlanta by-pass at evening rush hour. One roadside change wasn't the problem it was my IPR Solonoid.

Good luck!
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hey Oneof6, thank you! You answered a question I forgot to ask, “how long do the CPS’s usually last?” Yeah, we’ll- I added that front hitch and air dam so my fat belly ain’t going under there🤣. I’ll either remove it first, or just Jack up the front of the truck. I never thought about road side repairs when I added that extra stuff to the front.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
As always, great advice on TDS and the archives of the Advanced Search. Oneof6 is correct - looks more difficult than it is. Jacked up truck, 30 minutes start to finish and I went slow, taking my time.
10mm bolt was not tight, used regular sized ratchet, medium extension, socket. After breaking the bolt loose, used long extension and socket (like a screwdriver to remove and replace bolt). CPS came out easy using a (drum brake) brake spoon tool.
Old CPS was gray, replaced with black. Time to order another one to have on hand.

Drove truck 10 miles to nearby town and back- no hiccups, and ran great 👍

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I've only had to change mine once, and the one I put in has been running great ever since. It was very easy to change.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks Don, there seems to no rhyme or reason as to when these things go out. I’m assuming Someone had changed it before me. The rubber boot on the pigtail was missing that makes a seal so I smeared a bunch of dielectric goop on the plug body before plugging back in.
I ordered a replacement pigtail. Figured if I’m ever in there replacing the water pump I’ll solder the new pig tail on.
 

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I’m assuming Someone had changed it before me.
Glenn, that's true. Your truck would have come from the factory with a black CPS installed. The grey one was the replacement when Ford recalled the black ones.
 

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In the upper photo with 2 CPS, the upper one is the grey but the lower one is not a Black.

It is the Purple one for the earlier OBS.

Here is a Cut & Paste:

"Some owners of the 1999 - 2003 have found that using this [Purple] CPS on the newer models have been able to eliminate the cylinder contribution error on cylinder #3 that the gray CPS will cause on some engines."
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
In the upper photo with 2 CPS, the upper one is the grey but the lower one is not a Black.

It is the Purple one for the earlier OBS.

Here is a Cut & Paste:

"Some owners of the 1999 - 2003 have found that using this [Purple] CPS on the newer models have been able to eliminate the cylinder contribution error on cylinder #3 that the gray CPS will cause on some engines."
Thank you Arctic! After I posted it I realized it wasn’t black but was dark blue or purple as you state. But now to add to the confusion...... I ordered two more using the same part No. and got black ones (see picture).

I don’t understand why CPS’s of different colors would be packaged under the same part No.
So, are these black ones suppose to be good? Guess I’ll leave the “purple” one in there and see how it does.

I ordered two, figuring I might come across a fellow power stroker broke down and if it got them going I wouldn’t be giving away my only spare.
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Here’s one for sale I just looked up (same part no.), like what I bought the first time but with the purple/bluish gray color as noted by Arctic. I’m gonna quit staring at them- I think all the welding I’ve been doing is making me go color blind o_O

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I am pretty certain those are just a very dark shade of the purple.
Many PSD owners consider them the best currently produced CPS for all 7.3s so you should be good to go for a long time 👍
 

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There was discussion years ago about using 94-97 CPS in a 99 and newer truck. Something about the plating on the pins, with the older ones being tin plated and newer being gold and the two not being compatible. But as long as you keep moisture out of the connection, there shouldn't be an issue with dissimilar metal corrosion.
 

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Now you have me thinking.
There was even a Black CPS for the OBS prior to the Purple that had the silver terminals. I installed one on a 2000.

And I should clarify my earlier post. There is an Echlin CPS that was shown to be even smoother than the IH/Motorcraft Purple but it was not “Plug & Play” and required some wiring mods. (A “nod” to Nick)...😉
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Looks like I’m back to square one. A couple days ago I got a few hiccups - so yesterday morning I pulled the connector off the ICP - no signs of oil.

pulled the large wire harness that is prone to rubbing on drivers side head, no bare wires but looming was wore.

Checked IPR nut, was still tight

Was able to fish the CPS wire up between the A/C compressor and HPOP and soldered in new pigtail

I drove to the neighbors, seemed good, then got home and let it idle, hiccuped and stalled. Started right back up😔

So before I try and hook up the AE this weekend (rather than throwing parts at it....ICP, IPR, etc.) I was planning on removing the TS-6 tuner from the PCM so truck is back to stock. My ScanGauge2 is still showing “No Codes” Once I get some data I’ll post it for help.

Am I correct that I need to remove the tuner until I get this intermittent problem figured out? Could it possibly be the tuner?

I just put a new CPS in, would it be a waste of time to try another new one?

Anything else that comes to mind?

Thanks! Big Horn
 

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Big Horn Yes, if you have a tuner that plugs into the PCM you should remove it completely to eliminate it as a possibility. Tuners can malfunction or go bad I had a bully dog that was about 3yrs old that failed it was a crank no start I turned the knob back to stock still no start but, as soon as I unplugged it from the PCM she fired right up. Most of us on this forum will always recommend that if you are having drivability issues to remove the chip until you can get the problem resolved. Good luck! and keep us posted.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
Small update: yesterday I pulled the PCM and removed the TS-6 chip. Then it was drove around town (10 miles) and to work last night (17 miles).
I thought I had it because truck idled better, shifted smoother, and ran like a sewing machine without the chip.
Then this morning after getting off midnights it stumbled, hiccuped a few times (ah nuts!) and then evened out.

I decided since the chip was out and truck was back to stock I would follow Swamps Diesel Performance’s HPOP Test on the interstate with the truck back to stock, I’ve never tested it before: I maintained the truck at 60 mph and was at (ICP - 1392) when I took it to WOT.
At 90 mph ICP was reading and staying in (2856, 2830, & 2850 ) range before I backed out of it. (Had my phone set up on video of the SG2 to go back and review the numbers) Truck ran flawless, no Miss or hiccup and fuel psi at 60. Ran great rest of the way home.

Got home and let truck idle for 10-15 minutes and then stumbled a couple times and almost died, I pushed on go pedal keeping rpm’s up while stumbling, fuel psi never wavered, staying above 60 psi, Engine smoothed out and I let it drop down to low idle (673 rpm). Let it sit and idle for another ten minutes, back to running like a sewing machine. (You know the part in “Christmas Vacation” when Clark is yanking on the Christmas light strands and kicks the Santa Claus across the yard 😬) So while idling I took these numbers off my ScanGauge2, still no codes. I’m wondering if I could have got some bad fuel, other than water? I’m almost at 1/2 tank now from fueling up in St. Louis.

Tomorrow I’ll tackle AE after I’ve had sleep. The AE I bought didn’t come with a CD but with thumb drive from Riffraff.... which I like, just hope my older computer will operate it (I think it’s windows 10

Here’s what ScanGauge2 showed at idle if that’s worth anything.
IDL - 673 HPR - 4.5
ICP - 485 CPM - 9999
EBP - 14.8 VLT - 14.1
FPW - 2.66 FPR - 0.0
MFD - 7.62 IGN - 64
VFD - 9.5 LOD - 16LP
MAT - 102 TFC - 3.07
BST - 2.2 TFT - 123
EOT - 185

Big Horn

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I ready for some help, please. I have retrieved some data from AE, but am not sure it is related.

First thing I did when I got AE up and running was check ALL stored DTC’s
•GEM Central Timer P1832
•Hybrid Electronic Cluster B1352, U1027, U1262, U1059
•Overhead Trip Computer B1203
•Enhance Power Train P0603
All other headings were marked None.

Cleared ALL DTC’s

Ran KOEO test and gave two DTC’s:
P0476 exhaust pressure control valve range performance.
P0541 Intake Air Heater A Circuit Low
(I did the air heater delete right after getting the truck (2018) and never had issues affecting trucks performance)
Buzz test sounded good #3 just very slightly less than the others- all were loud.

KOER Tests:
Cylinder Contribution passed - no DCL’s
GPR and glowplugs passed
I could hear AE revving engine, running the tests- finished with: P0476 & P0541

I was looking at LIVE data: Barometric Pressure caught my eye, the only one in RED: (4.52)

I think the only common DCL that kept being pulled up was the P0541 for Intake air heater A circuit.

I called Steinacher Automotive in Carrollton, IL. Kevin has a great reputation with the power strokes and is only 25 miles from me. He said that lately he has had the 99-03 trucks come in with CPS’s (purple and black) bought over the internet that have been the problem. He advised me to call our Ford Dealer here nearby and get the gray CPS from the Ford Parts Counter, try that and if it still has the same issues bring it up to let him listen to. Ford will have the CPS in the morning ($35.) which didn’t seem bad at all.

I would like to hear from all of you if something looks out of the ordinary that would cause this miss/hiccup.

As as side note, the two CPS that came last week sure looked like black but I tried putting one in: trucked started, sputtered and died. Started right back up, ran a couple minutes, sputtered and died. Pull it, put the purple one back in and ran good except the occasional miss but never died.

I’m really wanting to get this truck straighten out before hunting season (next month) Thanks in advance if anyone has any ideas-
Big Horn
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Got the gray CPS from the Ford Dealer installed and the truck ran great for a day and a half on short trips (driven about 53 miles) then today when almost to work, 1500 rpm, truck stumbled 2 to 3 seconds. Powered through it with the skinny pedal and then cleared up.

Can someone tell me:
If I have a problem with my UVCH would it set a code?
Can an injector act up intermittently? Wouldn’t that throw a code?
Same for a fuel pump, can it have intermittent fits? Even though I’m not showing a dip in my fuel pressure gauge.

It’s uncanny how much this feels like the old carbureted gassers when the in-line fuel filter at the carburetor was getting plugged up and on rough roads or hard acceleration it would stumble and lose power.

Problem is I never know when it’s going to happen and can’t make it occur intentionally:rolleyes:

I’ve got a bunch of overtime coming up at the plant so it will be a few days before I get back to the truck. The good news is I’m getting pretty quick at changing the CPS:D
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Yesterday I had a hard stumble, not just a small Miss while driving but the truck pulled through it. No codes on ScanGauge2 but plan to run AE again later next week with the truck fully warmed up.
I've decided to work on the truck my next weekend towards the end of the month and have parts coming:
Going to ohm out glowplugs with klhansen’s sticky note.
Pull valve covers, change glowplugs if needed, maybe check clearance of #3 injector poppet/armature if next buzz test has #3 slightly quieter with the engine warmed up.
Since I have to pull the drivers side intercooler pipe figured it’s a good time to check turbo wheel (up/down/end play)
Motorcraft gaskets and UVC harnesses, and CCV o-rings on their way from Riffraff and a Motorcraft ICP sensor.

Will follow up!
 
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