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Cleaning remaining fuel out after replacing injector cups

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17K views 11 replies 5 participants last post by  mws  
#1 ·
Had my injector cups replaced last week. Basically, all the coolant in the system was mixed with fuel. The problem was so bad, the coolant recovery tank had a crack in the top of it, and the fumes from fuel/coolant mix would waft into the HVAC system while driving and make the interior smell very strong.

Bear in mind, I have already done the fuel filter 3 o-ring repair, it was successful and also, I carefully pressure-washed the valley and top of the motor, and rinsed the smells off, and it's dry as a bone. So I know the smells I am describing are the fuel-coolant mix from the leaking injector cups.

Since they also replaced the coolant tank, and flushed the system out about three times, Grant at Grant's Garage warned me that the circulating coolant would still find leftover bits of fuel in the system and bring it to the high point, which is the coolant recovery tank. He was right. But I am having to devise my own way to deal with it... since even if you suck out or wick off the fuel in the top layer of coolant using a rag, the smell is still there on the inside plastic of the tank, and amazingly, you can still smell it even with the cap on, air-tight.

I will take some pictures this weekend, but what I am doing is putting a large needle nose vice grip on the lower hose as a clamp, and removing the upper small hose to the recovery tank and simply removing the tank itself and dumping the contents. As I pull it up and off the big lower hose I just jam a rag onto the bottom nipple to keep it from dumping into the engine bay. Even with the tank empty, it smells horrible and this smell would make it into the cabin. I then wash the tank out with soap and water, rinse thoroughly and re-install and re-fill it back up to the cold line. This process usually spills some fuel-coolant in the engine bay, so I spray that off after buttoning up, as well.

I also figured that since there's a heater core in the rear HVAC system, I'd better run it at full hot setting for a few days, to circulate the diesel fuel out of the heater core. Not sure if the heater core has a valve, but if it does, running it at full-blast will definitely open it. In fact, I am doing it in the front HVAC as well. Now, after a couple of days of driving with the heat on full, and some windows open, the rear HVAC compartment does not smell like fuel anymore. I don't think there's a leak back there, because as I mentioned; the smell of the fuel just permeates right thru the rubber, or around the seals. Now I don't smell much at all back there.

It's been a full 7 days since I got it back, and as of last night, there still was a 3/8" thick layer of fuel scum in the tank. I imagine I'll be at this for awhile. The smell is minimized, but you can still smell fuel/coolant in the morning after the Ex has been sitting in a closed garage all night, and if you walk up and check out the coolant recovery tank cap, it is the source of the smell.

I wish there was a way to run a solvent in the coolant system to pull the fuel off the walls inside the hoses and water jacket.
 
#2 ·
Can you take it to a shop and have them change the fluid,I would think one of the antifreeze exchangers should be able to clean it up.
 
#7 ·
Guys, can you I.D. the scum in these pictures?



Idahoser and BlueOx got me thinking.

1] I am not really set up to do the flush, though it sounds straightforward. I would not mind paying someone to do it and also, dispose of the byproducts.

2] after talking to another local shop who is set up for complete cooling system flushes (and yes, they use Simple Green, and they remove the thermostat et al) and also familiar with the 7.3L leaky cup problem, he was concerned when I told him the floating scum was a dark brown. He thinks it might be oil and wants me to bring it in for a look-see.

But if it's just a matter of changing out a radiator that has the trans or engine oil cooler built in, I can do that, and then just have these guys do the flush.
 

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#3 · (Edited)
If you are getting that much fuel in your coolant tank then your shop didn't do a very good job of flushing the system. Did they remove the thermostat when they flushed it? Many people fail to do that and don't get a good flush. You need both flow and a good detergent to clean out fuel or oil. Regular dish detergent will work. My suggestion: Drain as much of your coolant as you can into clean buckets. Remove the thermostat. If the thermostat contains the seal you may need to make a temporary seal. Fill the system with water. Run the engine for a few minutes to get the air out and warm things up a bit. Add detergent and top off the water. Run it for 10-15 min at high idle. It won't warm up much but it will be enough for the detergent to do it's job. Make sure the heaters are on full. After you shut it down let it cool to where you can drain it without burning yourself. Close the plugs up and disconnect the top radiator hose at the radiator. Shove a garden hose and rag into it and backflush until it runs clean out of the top of the radiator. If you can, unhook the heater hoses and flush separately. Use low pressure air to blow the water out. Drain the block, install a new thermostat and take a look at your old coolant. It will probably be fine to reuse if all the fuel has separated out. Otherwise, go with new. Your call. I recommend new. If that doesn't clean out your system then you may still have a leak problem. Fuel deteriorates most hoses so look yours over good for any sign of damage. If any part feels spongy you should replace it.
 
#4 ·
Have you tried the detergent method before and been OK after that? I guess I am concerned with getting foreign chemicals in there and having an anode issue where I get internal corrosion I would not otherwise get happening.

in any case, the idea sounds like what I want to do. Just never done that before. Roger that on the heater core hoses, and even, the seals and valves on the cores as well. Heck, every coolant hose in the system. I agree, the fuel could have, or still could in the future, deteriorate them at an accelerated pace.
 
#12 ·
Finally, finally finally got the frigging fuel slick out of the coolant tank

Folks, don't like to bad-mouth a shop, but dammit, Oil Can Henry's in Salinas had 6 entries for service on this vehicle on CarFax. Every 3000 miles like clockwork. One visit was very recent to when I bought the Ex. They "changed the coolant" supposedly a few times. They NEVER caught this issue, during any of their service visits nor did they notice the coolant tank had a split on top and stunk to high heaven.

Every single other guy I took it to, from the dent repair guy to Grant's Garage and Superior in Morgan Hill, instantly smelled and diagnosed the issue.

I think I must have had the most epic fuel leak ever....

Last weekend, I spent literally from 9 to 9 both days, setting up a flush with the hose kit from Napa, doing other stuff, coming back, closing it up, getting a high idle, or even a short drive, getting a new slick in the coolant tank (aka degas tank), cleaning it out, starting again. rinse repeat. I was still getting little brown pin-head drops that would congregate in the coolant tank, and you could definitely smell diesel, but not nearly as strong. I cannot count the number of cycles I did.

Must have washed the degas/coolant tank 5-6 times by hand, off the truck.

used two large concentrate bottles of Simple Green on two separate "high idle and dump" cycles, and found that after awhile, while it WAS clean now, it smelled strongly of Simple Green, and the water was cloudy when dumped. cleaned THAT out with some biodegradeable dish washing machine soap as per Chuckster's suggestion (the soap for a dish washer does not foam up much). That helped the smell.

So I drove it on well water for the week (did not want to waste distilled water yet, or the expensive HD ELC), with the thermostat in, because I wanted to ensure I did not get another little oil slick. Did not, but the water started to stink like a pond. But ZERO and I mean, not even a pin-head dot of diesel fuel. Thank god!

Now will rinse that out and do one final cycle to try to get the remaining water to be distilled and then add the coolant. It's more difficult to completely dump, because the block plug I can reach easily on the driver's side, the square hole is stripped. Can't drain the block. And have not been able to identify the plug on the passenger side. Lots of accessories and supports on that side.

Thanks for everyone's help, and I hope the detail we went into can help others, especially when buying a used Ex.

It's OK to slowly remove the cap on the coolant tank, even with the engine running, as long as there's 3" of space between the cap and the top of the liquid. Open it slowly and carefully, and then check. If there's brown stuff or gold stuff floating on top (see my pictures in the post above), or small dots of oil slick, the Ex has an issue, and that should be considered in the price.