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Does the EGR valve have to be cleaned or replaced by the dealer or can I do it myself? Anyone have directions on doing so?? Thanks, Stucky
 

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Here is the link. Hopefully this helps. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif
 

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Here is the o-rings number: EGR o-rings 3C3Z-9P455-AB
 

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To the guys who clean theirs, do they look like the one in the picture? How often do you clean them? Do you also clean the inside of the manifold?
Thanks
 

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No, they all dont look like that. Just depends on your cleaning interval. You can either remove the intake manifold and flush it out with some cleaner or take a fine to medium wire cylinder brush and brush it out. Then while the egr is out you can start the engine and run it wide open throttle for roughly 10 second to blow the carbon/soot out of the intake/egr ports. This sound funny but it is how one of the techs on here explained it. If I can find the post I will link it.
 

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I cleaned mine this last weekend @ 20,000 miles and it looked ecactly like the picture. By definition, however, I have subjected it to harsh driving. Lots of short trips, stop and go, and extended idling. The gasket kit was around $7 and with the recommended parts cleaners, it came in around $20 and took about 2 1/2 hours to remove, clean, and reassemble. Pretty cheap insurance for something that will leave you sitting on the side of the road.
 

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I have about 18,000 miles on my 06 and am thinking about cleaning mine but I have heard that after the egr is cleaned and reinstalled that it must be checked with the ford scan tool to make sure the pcm knows that it is in the correct position. Any problems encountered after a DIY clean and reinstall?
 

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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: mikidymac</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have about 18,000 miles on my 06 and am thinking about cleaning mine but I have heard that after the egr is cleaned and reinstalled that it must be checked with the ford scan tool to make sure the pcm knows that it is in the correct position. Any problems encountered after a DIY clean and reinstall? </div></div>

I have cleaned mine and had no problems at 110,000 miles.
 

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That thing looks like it belongs in a trash can.
 

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I have about 18,000 miles on my 06 and am thinking about cleaning mine but I have heard that after the egr is cleaned and reinstalled that it must be checked with the ford scan tool to make sure the pcm knows that it is in the correct position. Any problems encountered after a DIY clean and reinstall?
Anyone know if this is true?
 

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EGR Valve

I have an 05 F350 King Ranch, drove it home from California and it ran fine. We took it in to have the oil changed and filters updated and now it stutters often. Has anyone had this happen and then corrected it. I hate to have to pay a shop to do something I may be able to do.
 

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I notice that much is said about the quality of fuel and lots of time idling with regards to the coking of the 6.0L. There hasn't been any mention, or very little about crankcase oil.

How much of a role does the motor oil have regarding the coking?

The reason why I am asking this question is because of all the reading I have done on EGR problems, maintenance and advice, I am now contemplating using Amsoil on the next oil change. Amsoil puts some emphasis on the fact that their motor oil has a "12 TBN" - (Total Base Number (TBN) is the measurement of a lubricant’s reserve alkalinity for combating acids).


AMSOIL - Synthetic 10W-30/SAE 30 Heavy Duty Diesel Oil (ACD)

PRODUCT DESCRIPTION
AMSOIL Synthetic 10W-30/SAE 30 Diesel Oil (ACD) is formulated with premium synthetic base oils that exceed both 10W-30 multi-grade and SAE 30 straight-grade viscosity requirements for outstanding performance in modern and older diesel engines. Unlike conventional SAE 30 motor oils, AMSOIL ACD has a naturally high viscosity index and does not contain paraffin (wax). It has a -36°F pour point and qualifies for SAE 10W, making it an “all season” multi-grade lubricant with a wide operating temperature range. AMSOIL ACD is formulated without viscosity index improvers (VI). This shear stable formulation stops viscosity loss and associated bearing and cylinder bore wear. AMSOIL ACD contains premium additives with a high 12 TBN to neutralize acids from blow-by, exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) and high sulfur diesel fuels. It protects against damaging piston deposits, ring sticking and sludge.
 

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EGR valve

Has anyone out there disconnected the electrical connection on the EGR valve? I have been told that you can do this. I know of three people that are running disconnected, and now I am. Runs perfect although I haven't had a chance to check the mileage. Mine was replaced at 60,000 and again at 102,000, just after the extended warranty ran out. Now I'm loosing some more water. The dealer thinks it might be the EGR cooler this time. Where does it stop? How about the blocking kits for the valve and also the cooler, anyone tried this. Help!!
 

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I have heard of folks running without it plugged in, not sure if it is a big deal or not. I am sure tree huggers would say its bad for the trees.

I had mine replaced twice within the 100K mileage wty but after that, now having 140K plus I am sure its probably due again as i get more smoke at starts, more smoke than i used to, and rough at times when starting with small amounts of surging at times, very miniscule but noticable to a sensative person, wife says I don't notice it.

I tried without success to remove it to see how dirty it was. Not sure of a way of getting it out without breaking something. It seems to be really stuck in there and no good way of getting a hold of it to remove. Is there a trick to getting it out?

One of the times when it was really bad and Ford could not get me into the dealership to replace it as they were on Back Order, they unoffically unplugged it to get me by until they could get the part.
 
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