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I have a clunking from my drivetrain everytime I put it into gear or everytime I let off or push the go pedal. I was just wondering does that sound like maybe its the U-Joints? The diffs are not messed up atleast I dont think they are because it is not driving like there are teeth missing from them. There is also a vibration around 70 MPH. Its not my tires that are out of ballance causing it to shake either I have thought of that.
 

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U-joints *almost* for sure. I had the exact same symptoms and it turned out that the joint closest to the differential was junk. The clunk was because one of the needle bearing cups had completely deteriorated and was just flopping around. I even checked mine for play in the shaft and it felt solid. I finally removed the shaft and the messed up bearing cup fell off... Check those joints!
 

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I would definetly check the U-joints, also check the slip yokes on the drivelines,,be sure the driveline,goes back in the same,, Imean mark the driveline and the where the u-joints are so the driveline isn't 180 degree's out Ted
 

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I would be willing to bet it is your rear Slip Joint. Pull the boot off, and lube, clunk should disappear immediately.

Richard
 

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Is this something you feel (set-of-the-pants) or do you hear it? I have the same problem in my 2wd. No sound. As I step on the go pedal lightly, she begins to move, then feels like something engages. Only does this when first touching the go pedal. I have been thinking maybe the go pedal itself. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif
 

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Just had this problem. turned out to be the passenger side-bearing in the diff. The bearing was so bad that the side shim was spining also. Every time I started from a stop, I would get a clunk which was all of the lash in the gears as a result of the bearing failure. I didn't figure it out until I started getting a noise while driving. It started to sound like someone was hitting the axle with a hammer. Tore the rear diff apart and the first thing I saw was 4 broken teeth on the ring gear from the pinion slapping up against it. A set of used gears and all the bearings set me back about $500 diong it myself. Grab the driveshaft and check to see how much lash you have. Gear lash on the 10.5 Sterling should be .08 -.16 Says Ford.
 

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Hi, I realize this is a very old post that I’m responding into but thought I would chime in to see if anyone has an answer for what I’ve recently experienced. 2004 Superduty crew cab with the 6.0 that recently underwent some Bulletproofing and use to have the drivetrain clunk. After the Bulletproofing work was completed and a SCT X4 programmer was hooked up and running the 65hp tow tune the drivetrain clunk has gone away completely! Absolutely nothing was done to the drivetrain, weird I know but pleasantly welcomed. Anyone have an idea why the clunk went away?
 

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Nope.

Maybe colder temperatures (stiffer grease) or undercarriage packed with snow?
 

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No snow here and temperatures are only getting down to low 40°s. I’m just happy that the clunking my truck had is gone, all is smooth.
Glad you are happy with it

Well the "clunk" you had is a bit different from the 2017 post. But I have a theory, since you asked for idea; With the addition of the programmer your system became more responsive. Responsive from the first of throttle demand on the system rather than the demand-a delay-then catch up producing a clunk cycle. The resultant would be smoother acceleration and likely smoother idle to accelerate off of.
 
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Glad you are happy with it

Well the "clunk" you had is a bit different from the 2017 post. But I have a theory, since you asked for idea; With the addition of the programmer your system became more responsive. Responsive from the first of throttle demand on the system rather than the demand-a delay-then catch up producing a clunk cycle. The resultant would be smoother acceleration and likely smoother idle to accelerate off of.
Great theory! Sounds logical. It’s more than I’ve gotten from anybody anywhere, thanks for the reply it’s much appreciated. I didn’t get the programmer for any racing or hot rodding purposes but it definetly makes the truck more responsive which is a plus. A lot of people say they get better mpg but I haven’t had it long enough to really know. Thanks again for you input.
 

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Great theory! Sounds logical. It’s more than I’ve gotten from anybody anywhere, thanks for the reply it’s much appreciated. I didn’t get the programmer for any racing or hot rodding purposes but it definetly makes the truck more responsive which is a plus. A lot of people say they get better mpg but I haven’t had it long enough to really know. Thanks again for you input.
Oh! You mentioned a 2017 post, I’m sorry but I can’t find that one.
 
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