[dknapp]

All, my clutch is starting to get too much play before it engages. Does anyone have instructions on how to go about tightening up whatever it is that needs tightening?

Is it relatively easy for a mechanical moron like myself?

Thanks in advance!

David Knapp

 

[asauer]

Yes, it's very easy. Go to any reputable clutch/driveline or transmission shop and ask them for an adjustable clutch rod for your truck. It should be about $8. Next, crawl in your truck and look up at your pedal assembly. Just to the right of your accelerator pedal you'll see a rod that connects your clutch pedal linkage to the master cylinder in the firewall. It will look just like the adjustable rod you bought, except it's one-piece and not adjustable. You should have a small e-clip or the like holding it on, along with a neutral safety switch that looks like a rectangular black plastic box. There's two tabs that hold it together. Use a pocket knife to pry on the tabs while you seperate it, and it will come right off. Next, slide the clutch rod out and set it next to your new, adjustable rod. Make the new rod about the same length as the old one. Put it back on the truck (but don't hook up the neutral safety switch yet). Push in the clutch pedal and see how much play there is. If there's too much slop, lengthen the rod. I usually leave about 1" of freeplay on the clutch pedal. When you're happy with how it feels, tighten the nut on the adjustable rod so it won't move on you. Reinstall the neutral safety switch (I've had problems with getting them to fit with the nut on the adjustable rods). If you can't get the safety switch to work, I just 'eliminate' it by opening the case, sticking a bolt that's the right length to push the slide all the way in (so the truck thinks the clutch is pushed in) and snapping the case back shut. Now, if you have cruise control, you will have problems since the truck thinks the clutch is pushed in so it will not engage cruise. I can't think offhand what wires you need to connect, but someone will chime in. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smokin.gif
Also, it is MUCH better to have too much play in your clutch than to not have ANY freeplay. If you don't have any freeplay, your clutch won't be fully engaged and will always be slipping a little- which is why I leave 1" of freeplay so you can be sure it is engaging fully.

 

[dknapp]

Thanks for the info! Another question/symptom -

Whilst examining my current clutch rod and neutral safety switch, I noticed a bit of oilish substance leaking where it meets the firewall. So I stuck my head under the hood to see what I could see from the other side. It looks like there's some kind of hydraulics involved with the clutch? There's a small black container with a stiff hose/pipe coming out. The lid of the container says fill with brake fluid to step. Inside the container is a weird rubber thing that has four sections - like a plus sign, but more rounded like a clover. Anyhow, it appears to be empty, probably because of the leak.

Question - does it seem likely that this is my problem? Is this a common problem, and how high am I really supposed to fill this thing?
My original problem was that I'm starting press the clutch almost to the floor before it unclutches and when I release the clutch, it engages sooner than I'm used to.

Thanks again!

dbk

 

[Mr_Roboto]

LOL, that rubber thing is the cap seal that stuck to the master cylinder. Pull it out and put it back on the cap where it belongs and fill up your master.

 

[dknapp]

Doesn't the master cylinder always refer to the brake system? I know where my brake master cylinder is. This is not the master cylinder for the brake system.

Pics coming.

 

[dknapp]

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x208/dknapp1/clutch.jpg

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x208/dknapp1/master_cyl.jpg

behind the master_cyl pic - you can see the clutch? container...

 

[dknapp]

more pics

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x208/dknapp1/not_mastercyl.jpg

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x208/dknapp1/unk.jpg

this is not the master cylinder...


dbk

 

[dknapp]

In the pics, I have a shiny new plastic master cylinder. Behind it and to the left is another container that appears to deal with the clutch?

Thoughts?

dbk

 

[Mr_Roboto]

The clutch master cylinder.....

Master and slave cylinders simply refer to their function in the system. They are not terms used excusively for brakes.

Rather than quibble over terms, just reach in and pull the cap seal out.

 

[mfsco001]

if it looks like it is leaking it probably is go to your local parts house or to the Ford stealer and purchase a new clutch master cylinder this could be your whole problem,also if you look at where the master cyl rod connects to the pedal assembly there is a plastic grommet that often wears out or breaks but this should come with the new master cyl if not though go to ford and get a couple they are only a few dollars a piece.

 

[hunterb2]

This is the first I have heard of an adjustable rod that will simply replace the OEM rod on the clutch. Has anyone else done this? Are these rods available easily?

I'd be interested as I was just getting ready to replace my entire clutch/brake pedal assembly to solve a worn out cross shaft situation.

Bruce

 

[mfsco001]

you dont have to replace the whole assembly there is a bushing kit you can get from Ford to replace the wear and tear parts in there.I dont have the part# but I had to replace mine a few years ago.it wasnt that expensive